Andrew Whitacre posted a photo:
Andrew Whitacre posted a photo:
Re-Establishing Agency in the Narrative of Maternal Obesity: A Post-Colonial Critique of Your Mom
The Social Construction Of “Outside”: A Study of a Cultural Concept Concerning Where We Should Take This Shit, Motherfucker
Reexamining Conceptions of Beauty in America: Questioning Whether Your Girlfriend is Even Hot
Facial Anatomy as an Object of Change: Problematizing Your Face
Leisure Activity as Identity in the Modern West: Asking Whether You Even Fucking Lift
Applying Foucault’s Analysis of Medicine and Power to Your Diagnosis as a Fuckin’ Dipshit
“What Are You, a Little Bitch?” A Post-Feminist Analysis of Your Masculinity
Fox News anchor Bret Baier debunked the network's defense of Indiana's discriminatory "religious freedom" law, explaining that the law is broader than both federal law and similar measures in other states. Baier's comments echo what others have already noted: Indiana's RFRA is categorically different from other "religious freedom" laws, because it includes for-profit businesses under its definition of "persons" capable of religious expression. The Indiana law also allows private individuals and businesses to claim a religious exemption in court "regardless of whether the state or any other governmental entity is a party to the proceeding." Those differences -- which the ACLU has called "virtually without precedent" -- expand the scope of Indiana's RFRA and provide a legal defense for businesses and individuals who refuse service to LGBT residents.
Get back to the land, but still keep your high-speed connection to modernity with this 1920s cabin in eastern Malibu. Measuring just 930 square feet and outfitted with fiber-optic internet and a landline, this homey, one-bedroom cottage has its own well and water filtration system, plus a fenced-in garden area. The kitchen features a pristine vintage stove and plenty of counter space too, so things are not entirely primitive. The main room has wood-beamed ceilings and a massive stone fireplace. Public records via Redfin say this 1922 dwelling is sitting on nearly two acres of land. It's listed for $885,000.
I eat this
Vintage 1950s three piece dress set - thick and substantial polished cotton with bold floral print trimmed in strategically places sequins. Top features spaghetti straps, bust darts and double waist darts, and hook and eye side closure, skirt is a classic 1950s full circle skirt and large matching shawl. Wear them together or separate!
fits like: xs
length of top: 14.5"
to ensure a good fit, please read the sizing guide:
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all fabric shop employees are disappointed that my wool coat from madewell is not actually this coat
What’s better than speed sewing?
Many, many, things. Actually: most things. You certainly won’t see me on a race-against-the-clock sewing TV show, because I would undoubtedly sew everything upside down and back to front, and I’m not sure I could get away with claiming it was avant garde, even with the useful tool of my cute accent* (* only works in America).
And yet, I find myself doing it. After a few weeks of making very slow progress on my Grainline Studio Cascade Duffle Coat, I decided to sprint for the finish and spent all of Saturday making it and Sunday morning bagging it. So….
Ag! I’m in love! As I mentioned previously, I’ve been after a navy blue duffel coat with white cord for aeons and I finally have the one of my dreams. The wool is an absolutely gorgeous double-cloth fleece beauty from Mood – I don’t generally have great luck buying online from them, so I ordered swatches and this one leapt out. It has a fantastic hand, drapes nicely and is deliciously spongy.
I paired it with midnight blue Ambiance lining, and peeks of plaid (more on that below).
Theoretically I’m outside Grainline’s sizing, but when I looked at the finished measurements I realized I’d be OK thanks to the ease – and indeed, this is a straight size 18. Obviously there’s a lot less ease in the bust than called for but actually it’s just the right amount for me. Although I didn’t alter the pattern, next time there are two things I’ll do. First, I didn’t realize the hood is also graded up until after I’d made it – my bust may be a lot bigger than a size 0 but my head isn’t (!) so next time I’ll grade from the 18 at the neckline to a smaller size. Until then I can smuggle squirrels in my hood. Second, the sleeves run a little on the short side – I did a really small seam allowance for the sleeve facing but probably could have done with another half inch. Apart from that, the pattern is a dream – all the notches match, the instructions were straightforward, and I love the styling and details.
Talking of details, let’s jump in! After extensive pondering and community consultation I went with a light brown/bronzy leather colour and made my own toggles using 2.5 mm off-white waxed Japanese cording from Pacific Trimming, and horn toggles from MyGann on Etsy. Then for the zipper band and inside bias, I used some lovely plaid cotton flannel from Grey’s Fabrics. I love the hidden zipper on the pattern – both practical for keeping you warm in the winter, and a place to add a fun accent.
I underlined the entire body of the coat with Thinsulate, which, on the first outing out of the house, was much appreciated. At the last minute I also added shoulder pads, and I’m glad I did as it gives it a slightly more structured look.
I took quite a bit of time trying to get everything perfect, but alas, there will always be mistakes – in particular, when I bagged the lining I “took off” a little more on one side of the zipper than the other, but I didn’t notice until after I’d graded all the seams so there was no going back! For the famously tricky toggles I used a leather needle, and after an ill-fated attempt to use contrasting topstitching thread I reverted to matching regular thread which cunningly hides the wobbles.
I will admit: this was a bit of a beast to get through the sewing machine. I have a pretty powerful Bernina which glides through jeans without a hiccup, but bagging this coat broke 6 (six!) heavy-duty needles, and involved me having to yank the layers through (yes I’m aware this is why the needles were breaking…). That’s mostly because there are many, many layers at the center front. So, just be aware that you’re going to need a fairly good machine, or to use a lighter weight fabric than me.
So the final verdict is: I’m thrilled with my new coat! It was much easier to make than my other coats thanks to the lack of bust shaping or tailoring, but I think it still looks pretty spiffy. And I look like Paddington.
Do you have a soft spot for duffle coats, dear readers? Have you ever wanted to dress up like your favourite Peruvian bear? And are you as hopelessly addicted to coat-making as me? I’m already plotting my next: a traditional trenchcoat…
The post The Grainline Studio Cascade Duffle Coat: Complete! appeared first on Cashmerette.
The largest pharmacist association in the country has voted to discourage its members from participating in executions.
The move could make executions harder for states that have been ordering their drugs from compounding pharmacies. As we've reported, some states like Texas turned to the pharmacies after big pharmaceutical companies — under pressure from death penalty opponents — decided to stop selling their drugs to U.S. prisons.
The American Pharmacists Association voted on the new policy at its annual meeting in San Diego on Monday.
The policy says it is discouraging its members from participating in executions because it is "fundamentally contrary to the role of pharmacists as providers of health care."
In a statement, the association's CEO Thomas Menighan said: "Pharmacists are health care providers and pharmacist participation in executions conflicts with the profession's role on the patient health care team. This new policy aligns APhA with the execution policies of other major health care associations including the American Medical Association, the American Nurses Association and the American Board of Anesthesiology."
The AP reports that under pressure from death penalty opponents, some compounding pharmacies had already stopped providing drugs to U.S. states. The AP adds:
"Texas' prison agency scrambled this month to find a supplier to replenish its inventory, then found a supply from a compounded pharmacy it won't identify. Also this month, an execution in Georgia was put off when prison authorities questioned the appearance of the compounded pentobarbital they planned to use.
"After a troubling use of a two-drug method last year, Ohio said it will use compounded versions of either pentobarbital or sodium thiopental in the future, though it doesn't have supplies of either drug and hasn't said how it will obtain them. All executions scheduled this year were pushed to 2016 to give the state more time to find the drugs."
The APhA represents some 62,000 practicing pharmacists, pharmaceutical scientists, student pharmacists and pharmacy technicians. The AP explains that its positions aren't legally binding, but hold the same kind of ethical sway that a pronouncement by the American Medical Association does for doctors.
photo: Wilco at the Cap in 2014 (more by PSquared)
We are canceling our May 7 show at the Murat in Indianapolis. The "Indiana Religious Freedom Restoration Act" feels like thinly disguised legal discrimination to us. Hope to get back to the Hoosier State someday soon, when this odious measure is repealed. Refunds available at point of purchase.Indiana Governor Mike Pence says the bill -- which could make it legal for businesses to turn away LGBT customers for religious reasons -- "isn't about discrimination," but not everyone's buying it.
In less upsetting news, the daily lineups were announced today for Wilco's Solid Sound Festival.
The Bechdel test has helped raise awareness about the dearth of strong, autonomous women in movies, and while the Bechdel test is monumentally important, there is another group often neglected in discussions of social equality: ROBOTS.
So I’ve invented “The Botdel Test.” To pass the Botdel test, a work must feature two robot characters who speak to one another about something other than a human being. Now, let’s consider some works that feature prominent robot characters and see if they pass the Botdel test.
1. David from Prometheus
Prometheus features one of the most prominent robot characters in recent sci-fi cinema: David. He dominates the movie’s opening. While the rest of the crew is in stasis, David has the ship to himself, and he passes the time by doing eerie imitations of Peter O’Toole and perfecting his blonde hair. He looks like a normal man (er, a normal, very handsome man) and exhibits a child-like curiosity, making it difficult not to humanize him.
Michael Fassbender, stop making being a bad robot look so good!
Ultimately, though, he does not emerge as a full character with agency. He never speaks to another robot, and his primary role is to serve the evil folks at the Weyland corporation whose best business plan is to capture a killer alien.
Also, David, watching Lawrence of Arabia and bleaching your roots? Really? If you’re going to appropriate human culture, maybe pick a movie less outdated and a haircut less Backstreet Boys-era Nick Carter. If you want to understand human culture, you should watch The Shawshank Redemption or Mean Girls.
Prometheus fails the Botdel test.
Now, on the subject of humanoids…
2. All the Replicants from Blade Runner
I can’t write about robot empowerment without mentioning Blade Runner. The movie’s central concern is robot empowerment — or the liberation of robots from human enslavement and oppression. This premise, however, makes determining whether it passes the Botdel test difficult.
The film offers some of the most dynamic robot characters in sci-fi history (I mean literally dynamic when it comes to gymnastic ninja queen Pris), but every scene focuses on humans: what it means to be human, what distinguishes humans from replicants, why do replicants have way better hair than humans. Sure, the robots have scenes to themselves, especially if you prefer Ridley Scott’s director’s cut and believe Deckard is a replicant, but the conversation never strays from human beings.
There is one exception: when Roy and Pris are alone, they briefly speak of their fallen compatriot, Leon. Blink and you’d miss it. Once Sebastian re-enters the room, they change the subject and start asking about Eldon Tyrell.
Blade Runner barely passes the Botdel test, but it basically has to because it’s the reason for the invention of the Botdel test so that counts for something.
The future looks grim for robots. Just take a look at…
3. TARS from Interstellar
TARS is a stark departure from robot representation in recent sci-fi cinema. While his speech patterns humanize him, his appearance is distinctly un-humanoid. In fact, he unnervingly resembles Minecraft’s Enderman.
TARS is a step backwards in the robot equality movement. He doesn’t represent a nuanced portrait of artificial intelligence. The movie spends no time addressing his self-awareness or point of view or his relationship with his fellow robot, CASE. Instead, the movie uses him merely as fun garnish. Sure, the crew members are fond of him, but only because he is there to dutifully serve them and provide some light comic relief at their behest.
Interstellar totally fails the Botdel test.
Speaking of outer space…
4. Legion from Mass Effect 2 & 3
Does this unit have a…unit?
Legion is one of the main characters in the second and third Mass Effect installments. Besides the other 1,183 geth programs inside him, there aren’t many other robots for Legion to talk to.
NAY, you cry out, Legion spoke to Commander Shepard and Commander Shepard becomes part-robot after Cerebrus saved her life!
Pssst, Shepard, your epidermisepidurmis is showing.
I said robots, not cyborgs. Get your shit together. You can’t be making rookie mistakes like that this far into the article.
Legion does have EDI to talk to, but they usually converse about humans (or quarians or organics or some other fancy word Mass Effect made up). When they don’t talk about humans, they turn on each other, trading barbed insults. Legion and EDI, you should be building each other up, not tearing each other down!
Mass Effect fails the Botdel test.
If I’m going to talk about robots in video games, I must mention…
5. GLaDOS and Wheatley from Portal 2
This list would not be complete without the beloved Portal robots. Especially GLaDOS. Her droll game is so good, I wish she were real so we could hate-watch bad TV and make fun of it together. I know that her dry delivery and impeccable timing are just products of advanced programming, but it is nearly impossible not to humanize her. That’s why I had to run Portal 2 through the Botdel test.
More than one prominent robot character? Check. Do they talk to each other? Check!
Wait. Doesn’t Wheatley depend on Chell to press the stalemate resolution button that completes the core transfer? And when Wheatley and GLaDOS argue, they talk only about Chell and the humans who designed them. While players see both robots through their ups and downs and feel for them in spite of their homicidal tendencies, GLaDOS and Wheatley surprisingly and unfortunately do not meet all the requirements of the Botdel test.
Though it pains me to say it, Portal 2 does not pass the Botdel test.
Onto another famous robot duo…
6. WALL-E from, you know, WALL-E
Robots are obsessed with 20th Century nostalgia.
Wall-E is another robot who attempts to become more human by watching weird classic movies. BUT Wall-E’s primary conversation partner is Eve, another robot! He passes the first part of the Botdel test!
This is when it gets tricky. The movie seems like a promising candidate for the Botdel test because it doesn’t give people much screen time. And when they do get their moment, human beings come across as lazy and short-sighted, making the robotagonists (robot protagonists, you’re welcome) all the more likeable and heroic.
But the only thing Wall-E and Eve say to each other is their own names (we assume their attraction is mostly physical). And the two of them spend most of the movie dutifully performing their functions to save Earth from the senseless destruction mankind wreaked on it. All these two do is serve human beings. Wall-E and Eve are like if Sisyphus created robots to push the boulder up the hill for him. If Sisyphus could build robots. And the giant boulder was made of trash. I swear this analogy works.
WALL-E is complicated, but ultimately it fails the Botdel test.
Before you give up hope, there is one piece of popular media that I believe passes the Botdel test with flying colors…
7. C3PO and R2D2 from Star Wars
Check out C3PO’s hoverhand.
Star Wars was ahead of its time in many respects: It featured a kick-ass princess; it understood how crucial toy sales were to a franchise; and, most importantly, it portrayed a complex relationship between two robots.
The original series boasts many scenes where C3PO and R2D2 bicker about stuff besides their pesky human friends. Often, we don’t understand everything they say to one another because they don’t practice code-switching to seem comprehensible by their human counterparts. Yes, I used the term “code-switching” in an article analyzing the fair representation of fictional robots in the media. Finally putting my college degree to good use!
C3PO and R2D2 prove that robots have their own stories to tell and that including these stories would enrich any narrative.
Only the ewoks understood how special C3PO was.
Congratulations, Star Wars, you pass the Botdel test!
I hope these examples have made you reconsider how robots are treated in popular media.
Don’t mention his contributions to robot empowerment. Oh wait, you didn’t.
Feel free to discuss the Botdel test with your friends! One of my favorite group activities is trying to think of movies that pass both the Bechdel test and the Botdel test. Once you start thinking about how artificial intelligence is represented, you will find the majority of sci-fi movies shortchange robots, and I believe these regressive movies will be forgotten, lost in time… like… tears in rain.
Roy, put the dove down and step away. Step away. From the dove.
Chloe Cole is a writer at Dorkly. When she isn’t working and arguing with her co-workers about 80s horror movies, she enjoys arguing with her friends about 80s horror movies. And coming up with crazy science fiction premises – like, what would the world be like if every time you orgasmed, you had a 50% chance of blowing up? Also, she doesn’t have any robot servants at home, and neither should you. Check out her work on Dorkly!
"Last year, the report found that San Franciscans at the 95th percentile were out-earning those at the 20th percentile by a factor of 16.6 ($353,576 versus $21,313.) This year, the wealthy are out-earning the poor by a factor of 17.1 ($423,171 versus $24,815.)
"San Francisco trails only Atlanta — which this year sported a ratio of 19.2, up from last year’s 18.8. That city’s ratio is bigger because its poor are so much poorer than our own — earning just $14,988 a year.
"Where San Francisco comes out on top is the rate at which that ratio is growing. In 2007, before the recession and economic rebound, those at the 95th percentile in San Francisco out-earned those at the 20th percentile by a factor of 12.7. No other city has seen that ratio grow so much so quickly."
Hapa Ramen is now closed. Here, windows are washed before service on Thursday, March 5th, 2015. Photo: John Storey/The Chronicle
Hapa Ramen owner Owen Van Natta and director of operations Deborah Blum have released a joint statement surrounding the big weekend news regarding the split with chef-founder Richie Nakano and the restaurant’s subsequent closure.
Here is the statement, in full:
- Richie Nakano was an employee, not an owner. He sold his ownership and the Hapa brand in July 2014 for $20,000 and was hired to the executive chef position with above-market salary and full health benefits. As part of the terms, Nakano accepted certain responsibilities as executive chef and signed an employment agreement that required him to efficiently manage food and labor costs. Unfortunately, those costs were consistently and significantly over budget (twice the industry standard). Management provided Nakano with every possible opportunity to generate a solution, but culinary expenses remained well beyond a reasonable range. Nakano was not expected to make Hapa profitable in the course of four months’ time; the critical issue is that he refused to cooperate with management to acknowledge and remedy financial concerns and work with stakeholders to put Hapa on track toward profitability.
- Nakano was not fired. He presented a list of demands and told the owners that if they did not agree to these conditions, he would quit. His proposed terms conflicted with the employment agreement he signed and were unworkable, and the parties agreed to a mutual separation.
- Hapa staff was not fired. All but two of Hapa’s line cooks are currently employed by the business; today they’re doing prep work for a tasting related to the concept that will replace Hapa. The management also extended an offer of income to Hapa’s top servers and the kitchen staff to support them during the restaurant’s period of closure.
- We believe that Richie Nakano is incredibly talented and our intent was to partner with Richie to operate a viable and successful restaurant business. We sincerely wish him the very best.
The restaurant is currently closed, and any timing surrounding the reopening of a new concept in the same space remains undecided.
Nakano’s aforementioned demands, as the restaurant’s chef, included “complete creative control over the entire menu with final say regarding plating, portion sizes, and ingredient use” and “respect for the hierarchy and organizational structure in the back of house.”
The statement from Van Natta and Blum, the latter who spoke to Scoop on Saturday, reaffirms the primary reason for rift (food and labor costs) and clears up some questions about staff and the restaurant’s future.
However, it also frames the impetus for the moves in a slightly different light — and one that Nakano disputes.
“I would never leave the thing that I built and loved,” he says in response to the statement. “They made it clear that they did not want me working there any longer.”
In an internal Hapa Ramen memo sent over the weekend, obtained by Inside Scoop, Blum wrote to her front-of-house staff that she and Van Natta “made the decision, based on many reasons but primarily the lackluster performance of the restaurant in regards to food costs and kitchen labor costs, to close the restaurant.”
Hapa Ramen: 2293 Mission St. (near 19th Street), San Francisco. (415) 202-6333. www.haparamensf.com
shared for song title; apparently this phrase means "to spend an excessive amount of money"?
I just like the idea of punctuation getting its ass handed to it, I guess
via multitask suicide
It looks like moonshine.
But it’s not spirits. It’s not even beer or wine, and yet it is 28 proof.
I stumbled on Great America “Carolina Clear” at a gas station in Bardstown, Kentucky, of all places. It was just a couple miles from Jim Beam and Four Roses. I would have assumed the heart of Bourbon Country is roughly the last place for a product such as this to thrive. And yet, the guy loitering and smoking out front advised it is an excellent product and will get one messed up almost as good as the illegal stuff. The display had about 40 jars of the product, in various flavors, a couple days ago. When I went back today, only one jar was left.
The front label describes it as Carolina Clear, Malt Specialty. There is no mention of beer, and there is no TTB label approval, because the product apparently lacks the hops and malted barley required to fit within the U.S. definition of a “malt beverage.”
The back label explains, in the FDA-style ingredient list, that the product only has three ingredients. I don’t think anyone will be surprised, at least at this point, that those ingredients are not the ones elevated in the Reinheitsgebot (the German Beer Purity Law of 1487, allowing beer to be made with water, barley and hops only). The North Carolina-made “malt specialty,” selling for $5.99 a jar, is made only with high fructose corn syrup, distilled water, and sodium benzoate. It is tough to imagine an alcohol beverage that could be produced at lower cost.
The product can’t fit within TTB’s label rules for beer-type beverages due to the lack of hops and barley. It falls outside the spirits labeling rules due to the lack of distillation. It is harder to see why the product falls outside TTB’s wine labeling rules, because it is like saké, at least in the sense that is also fermented from grain, and the federal government treats saké as wine, for labeling purposes. It is clear that Great America views the product as outside the TTB labeling rules because:
Notwithstanding these distinctions, the federal taxes and permit requirements would be the same for this product as compared to typical beer.
This product is put out by Stout Brewing Company and also comes in common moonshine flavors such as peach, apple pie, and strawberry. Stout also markets similar products in 3 ounce tubes (as in the image immediately above).
Vintage 1950s black rayon dress with surplice bodice, short sleeves, very wide wrapped waist with black grosgrain ribbon tied around the waist, semi-full skirt and metal side zipper.
fits like: small
brand/maker: Junior Guild
To ensure a good fit, please read the sizing guide:
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Vintage 1960s pony and leather slip on shoes with rounded toe, nice leather insole and wood sole.
--- M E A S U R E M E N T S ---
fits like: us 7 | euro 37.5 | uk 4.5
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The pilot of the doomed Germanwings plane desperately struggled to get into the cockpit that the co-pilot had locked him out of before the plane crashed into the French Alps, killing all 150 on board, a German newspaper reported Sunday.
“For God’s sake, open the door,” the captain, Patrick Sonderheimer, can be heard demanding in cockpit voice recordings salvaged by investigators probing Tuesday’s crash, according to the German publication Bild am Sonntag.
The 27-year-old co-pilot, Andreas Lubitz, doesn’t reply, even as the pilot’s pleas are accompanied by screams of terrified passengers, Bild am Sonntag reported. Lubitz also ignored bangs on …
This sword, with its superbly sculptural hilt, was once thought to be the work of the Florentine goldsmith and sculptor Benvenuto Cellini. As with the ‘Cellini Shield’, the tradition was refuted when historic arms and armour came under more serious scrutiny in the last quarter of the 19th century. Nevertheless, the work of the anonymous sculptor of the forged and chiselled iron hilt is of very high quality.
The subjects are from the Old Testament Book of Samuel. On one side of the pear-shaped pommel David is depicted beheading Goliath, while on the other he brings his giant opponent’s head to Saul. These two scenes are separated by male and female herms. The oval grip has a scene of Samuel anointing David. Next, on one side of the quillon-block (the central point of the two guards or quillons) David is shown making a libation or sacrifice with water brought from the well by the gates of Bethlehem.
On the other side there’s Abigail, the wife of Nabal, brings David two flasks. At the centre of the side ring is an oval cartouche with the young David slaying the lion. The quillons terminate in hunched and winged figures of Fame and Time. The details of the figurative scenes are picked out in gold, overlaid on the iron ground. A second tradition attaching to this sword is that it belonged to John Hampden (1594-1643), one of the leaders of the parliamentary opposition to Charles I, who was mortally wounded at the Battle of Chalgrove Field.
This was claimed by another former owner, the author Pryse Lockhart Gordon (?d. 1834), who had casts made from the reliefs of the hilt by the prolific Scottish cameo artist James Tassie (1735-99); he presented these to friends ‘as memoirs of the patriot’ (i.e. Hampden). Gordon sold the sword to ‘a royal purveyer of virtu, a man of fine taste’, namely Walsh Porter (d. 1809), the writer, collector and connoisseur who advised George IV on the decoration of Carlton House.
Six-month-old one-horned rhino Jalada Prasad had a prance party in honor of his public debut Friday at Alipore Zoological Garden in Kolkata, India. Little dude had some rough early months after his mother was killed by poachers. But! He was rescued and nursed back to health, and now appears to be quite the peppy fella.
Let’s talk about one of sewing’s favorite subjects—dress forms!
Over the last month I’ve been shopping for a new form, both by doing a bit of online “window shopping” and by asking questions of various dealers and makers. It’s been a fun process!
The first time I went shopping for a dress form, circa 2002, I had access to very little information about them. The little that was out there on the internet about patternmaking and draping seemed to reinforce the mystique of, or my need for, a dress form. I was convinced that I needed one for any kind of serious sewing work.
Of course this was fueled in no small part by my lifelong romantic ideals of fashion designers all draping away on their dress forms. When I was a teenager, I used to imagine that a vintage Wolf form was something Molly Ringwald’s Pretty in Pink character might have kept in the corner of her bedroom. And I adored that character (what she did to that prom dress!).
I now own two dress forms. I bought one for personal use and one for professional pattern work and display photography. However, neither fills the specific need I have at the moment.
So before I dive into dress form specifics, let’s talk about all the reasons one might want a dress form:
Do any of these stand out for you?
Knowing what you really want to use it for can help you choose from among the various dress form styles.
So for example, when I look at this list, I’m most drawn to a form that works for both blog photo styling and makes an interesting collector’s piece. I’d also like the ability to pad the form for fitting purposes in the future. So I’m interested in looks as much as function.
Clearly I don’t prioritize having a form for fitting or draping purposes, which is probably the biggest reason many sewists want a dress form. The truth is, even if I had a better form or a totally customized body cast I don’t think I would use it very much for fitting. I prefer to fit directly on my body, and I can often visualize what flat pattern adjustments are going to do.
However, if you have trouble visualizing adjustments or pattern lines, a form might be a helpful tool!
Now let’s have a look at some of the different form types out there.
1. Professional form with cast iron base. These kind of forms are usually made with papier mache, padded with a few layers of cotton wadding and covered in linen. These are usually available either as a classic dressmaker form with a skirt cage or as a full body with legs.
Among these kind of forms is a huge variety in quality, and I’ll talk more specifics about these forms in my next post.
2. Display form. These forms are often designed to look just like sewing forms but they are really produced for display purposes. The form is usually made from either foam or fiberglass, and have a more simplified body shape to them.
Some dress forms cover a middle ground between professional sewing form and display form. For example, Urban Outfitters is selling this dress form, which was probably produced as an inexpensive form by one of the major form makers:
Although it is advertised as a sewing tool, it doesn’t have collapsible shoulders, is made from foam, and the stand has a height pedal that is purely decorative. You’ll also notice that the body shape is quite simplified, with absolutely no butt.
3. Adjustable form. These are the forms with dials that allow you to expand and contract the form as needed for different measurements.
4. Handmade form. There are a lot of fun methods for making a totally customized body form: plaster-casting, duct-tape and papier mache. Among these methods I’d include the mother of all crazy inventions, the Uniquely You form, which is a compressible foam form that you squeeze into a custom-fitted cover. Whoever first came up with the name “torpedo boobs” for this form deserves a sewing hall of fame star! I own one of these babies, too. A story for another day.
An important thing to keep in mind is that most dress forms can’t totally replace the work of fitting on an actual body. Bodies move and breathe. Most of these forms need work in order to replicate important body measurements and posture.
If you don’t need to do a lot of heavy fitting work, almost any of these will work for light sewing purposes. What you choose depends on budget, how much you need to fit precisely, or whether or not the form is for other non-sewing purposes.
So after all this you may wonder what I’ve chosen for myself! As I mentioned I have a very specific need and I’ve narrowed it down to a few options. I’ll share more about that, along with what I loved and disliked about particular forms, in my next post.
Do you have a form? What do you use it for? What do love or wish you could change about it? And if you’ve blogged about your form, do share a link. I love reading dress form posts!
of the methods for creating plackets that I've tried so far, this has been the easiest one with the tidiest results
I've been using a tailor's sausage
I love making up sewing tools. There are times a tweezer works better than a bone folder, and a rubber hammer works better than an iron. I have a pencil that works great for spaghetti straps and probably do “wet finger” pressing on silk more times than I care to admit.
It’s really fun and easy to make your own pressing tools, and this week I’m pleased to share a guest tutorial on making your own bra pressing curve from my fellow lingerie-making addict Maddie Flanigan! You may know her from her blog Madalynne, gorgeous sewing photography and brand-new bra making workshops in her Philly studio. So let me step aside as Maddie brings on the drill…
Based on a similar item sold at Bra-makers Supply, my bra pressing curve has become a
valuable tool. I first came across it when Beverly Johnson mentioned it during her class
on Craftsy. She said it was easy to make and she was right. All it took was a trip to the
hardware store and about 30 minutes. I use it mostly to press cross cup seams without
touching other parts of the bra.
All supplies except for round ball can be sourced at most hardware stores such as Home
Depot and Lowes.
Prep: Most likely, your hardware store will sell long, rectangular pieces of wood, not one that is exactly 5.5″ x 5.5″. The same goes for dowels. Having it cut down isn’t a hassle. The hardware store should do it for free. Ask to have extras pieces cut so you have a spare in case you mess up.
Step 1: Using a pencil, mark the center of the sphere, the center of the dowel at the top and bottom, and the center of the square at the top and bottom as well. Mark all of these points with a cross mark.
Step 2: Mark the center of the dowel pin and then place it next to the drill bit as shown. Using masking or painters tape, wrap the drill bit at the point where the center point is on the dowel pin. Why? Because you don’t want to drill too far into the ball or the dowel.
Step 3: Use power drill to drill a hole into the ball and the dowel at both top and bottom. To ensure that you drill straight down, use a quick grip clamp or have someone hold the ball and the dowel while you drill.
Step 4: Connect the ball with the dowel by placing a thin coat of wood glue on the dowel pin and inserting one end into the ball and the other into one end of the dowel.
Step 5: The final step is to connect the dowel/sphere (which is now one) to the wood square. Using a regular drill bit, drill from the bottom of the square block up through the bottom of the down with a regular screw.
I wish I could get any russian river beer
Why would anyone wait hours in line for a limited-edition beer? We talk to a few beer nuts in line for Russian River Brewing Company’s Pliny the Younger to find out.