Statuesque - @goodfellow
edward gorey, I presume
Statuesque - @goodfellow
Boston: 1630 Shoreline with modern shoreline overlayed.
it is worth going to the berkeley marina to see if the tiny owls are still hanging out
Did a real estate broker forge a bunch of names to eighty-six a wine bar? "An April 1 arraignment in Cambridge District Court could get at an answer, as Sydney DePaulo has been summonsed on multiple charges ... related to a petition he submitted in March against the opening of a wine bar and charcuterie called UpperWest at 1001 Massachusetts Avenue, near Harvard Square. ... [B]ut it's not clear that any names on it are real aside from his own." [Day]
the trickiest part of bra-making is not the actual sewing
My last post reviewed bra making fabrics, but as you well know, you need more than fabric to make a bra. Like most bras, the Marlborough calls for about a half dozen different notions. That may sound like a lot, but each has a clear role to play in creating this bra. Let’s review them one by one.
Underarm and Band Elastic
The purpose of the elastic in a bra is to keep the garment correctly positioned against the body so it can support the breasts.
For bras you should use lingerie elastic that has a soft plush finish on one side since it will be in direct contact with the body in the finished bra. Usually this elastic has a decorative “picot” edge on one side and a flat finish on the opposite edge. You can choose which edge you want to be visible in the finished the bra.
The Marlborough uses two different widths of lingerie elastic with a wider elastic used for the band to add more stability and support.
The role of the straps is to keep the bra in a stable position on the body. Strap elastic is used to provide some flexibility to the straps for comfort. It is typically shiny on one side and plush on the body facing side. There should be some stretch to the strap elastic but it should be a firm stretch, 50% tops.
The width of the strap elastic used for the bra varies by cup size with the larger cup sizes using wider elastic for increased stability. A wider strap also creates more visual harmony with the rest of the garment in larger cup sizes.
While the Marlborough uses strap elastic for the entire strap, if you want or need more stability in the straps, you can make the front portion of the strap from low to no movement fabric and use strap elastic for just the back portion of the strap. There are several options when it comes to straps so I will be posting about different strap variations soon.
Hook and Eye Closure
The hook and eye closure is used to securely fasten the bra around the body. The backing of the eyes should be soft, since it will be up against the body.
Larger cup sizes use a taller closure than smaller cup sizes. The increased height allows for a wider band which helps to provide more support.
Underwire Channeling or Casing
Underwire channeling or casing is used as a sturdy enclosure for the underwires. It also stabilizes the cup to frame seam and should be used regardless of whether or not you are using underwires in your bra. I prefer a plush underwire casing since it is soft against the body, as well as strong and durable.
It is possible to make your own casing out of fabric, but I will save that tutorial for a future post!
Underwires support the breasts. They do this by spreading out the stress of breast support from the cups into the band and I recommend using them to get the best lift and support possible from your bra.
Underwires are most commonly made of metal and come in a variety of diameters and lengths. I don’t ever recommend plastic underwires since they splay too much across all cup sizes, negatively impacting their ability to provide support.
For the Marlborough, I used Bra-makers Supply regular size wires. If your wires are too short, they will not work. If your wires are too long, you can cut them to the correct length. When cutting wires for a bra, be sure to allow for a minimum of 3/8″ extra room in the underwire casing for “wire play” and to enable the casing to be stitched closed. I have a fun new way of sealing off the tips of cut wires that I plan to post soon.
Rings and Sliders
Rings and sliders provide a mechanism to make bra straps adjustable. (Note, only sliders are pictured above.)
The most durable rings and sliders are made of metal and coated in nylon. Color selection has been getting better as of late but the most widely available colors are white, beige and black. If you can’t find a color match for your project, you can do what I do: use gold or silver rings and sliders or just go with a sturdy clear plastic set.
The width of the rings and sliders you will use corresponds to your strap width. If you plan to create a two-piece strap (a fabric front and elastic back) you will need to get another two rings so you have a way to connect the front strap to the back strap. Out of rings? No problem. You can substitute sliders for rings and you have a different and fully functional look.
Center Front Embellishment (optional)
The center front embellishment is used for decoration and to camouflage the stitching that seals the wire casing.
You can attach a variety of embellishments to the center front of your bra so feel free to get creative. In addition to bows, I have seen bras with ribbon flowers, custom covered buttons and even mini pom poms. When selecting an embellishment, just be aware that any bold or multi dimensional decoration may show through clothing.
Where to Buy
Because few of us can find bra making supplies in our local area, I have list of bra making materials suppliers on my resources page.
Coming up in my next post, I will tell you how to manipulate your materials to get what you want from them!
Since Eurovision last year I’ve seen a ton of people confusing Conchita as a beacon of transgender pride and it’s always irked me. She isn’t transgender and has never claimed as such, as the image set here shows. She seems very respectful towards people who are, in fact, transgender, and I’m glad she’s taken so much time to clarify the difference between the drag persona of Conchita Wurst (and her male performer) and what being transgender actually is.
attn overbey: do you suppose criticism of the criticism of the meta-news of #thedress is the final stage of #thedress coverage?
It caused Taylor Swift to feel “confused and scared.” It caused a rupture in the Kardashian-West household that might never be repaired. It caused Chris Murphy, a Democratic representative from Connecticut, to come out and say, “I know three things: 1) the ACA works; 2) climate change is real; 2) [sic] that dress is gold and white.” It caused the rest of us to question our sanity and our friends and the nature of reality.
The basic problem with The Dress—having gone viral on BuzzFeed last night, it has already come to stand in for all dresses, Platonically—is this: Some people see it as blue and black. Others see it as white and gold. And each side is, like, 1,000 percent sure that they see the dress as it is, in reality—so sure that the conversations about the dress have tended to play out as ALL-CAPS ASSERTIONS OF OBJECTIVE TRUTH because OMG YOU GUYS IT’S WHITE AND GOLD AND IF YOU CAN’T SEE THAT THEN I DON’T EVEN KNOW WHAT TO TELL YOU. (And also as ALL-CAPS DECLARATIONS of a slightly more modest variety: "I swear to you its no hoax," Swiked, who wrote the Tumblr post that launched a thousand existential doubts, promised. "I saw the dress in real life, it’s blue and black. Some people just see this pic as white and gold. I DONT HAVE ANY ANSWERS BUT I NEED THEM.")
Here is what The Dress, as depicted across the Internet, looks like:
The visual/moral/existential discrepancies—ceci n’est pas une robe—are most likely traceable to the play of light on the pigment rhodopsin, found in the rods of the human eye, and also to the glorious dynamism of the human sensory experience, though maybe also to a hoax of Santa and/or Söze proportions, and possibly also to a rupture in the space-time continuum that can be mended only by Matthew McConaughey's dimples. Regardless. The Rorschach dress—the dress that, as so many news outlets have reminded us, has "broken the Internet"—has brought us together; it has divided us; it has caused us to question the physical world and our place within it and hinted that perception is relative and also that while facts may be sacred they are also uncomfortably unsteady. Maybe the left shark was actually yellow, and what is yellow anyway, I mean like how would you describe yellow to a blind person, and have you ever really looked at your hand, like really looked, and HOW CAN YOU NOT SEE WHAT I SEE and maybe The Matrix was onto something and I AM SORRY BUT IT IS SO OBVIOUSLY WHITE AND GOLD and either way we will all die alone.
So, yeah. You can read the dress—sorry, #thedress—as a metaphor: for our knee-jerk impulse toward partisanship (#TEAMBLUEANDBLACK), for the dynamic nature of observable reality (#TEAMWHITEANDGOLD), for the Internet’s ability to prove Walt Whitman right yet again, for its ability to prove Daniel Patrick Moynihan wrong yet again, for the fundamental challenge of consensus-building in American democracy, for Plato’s caves and Russell’s turtles and Bill Murray’s groundhog. What I want to focus on, though, is a little sliver of all that: a particular strain of commentary that arose during the explosion of conversation about #thedress. Here is a representative tweet, from God (well, @TheTweetofGod) himself:
The color of a dress? Really? That's what you're asking Me? THE OCEAN LEVELS ROSE FOUR INCHES IN TWO YEARS. You know that, right?— God (@TheTweetOfGod) February 27, 2015
This is a line of logic that will be familiar from most any Meme Event—the logic that says, basically, "don’t look at that; that is unimportant." It’s attention-policing, and it’s reminiscent of so many other strains of rhetorical legislation that play out in online conversations: You can’t say that. You can’t talk about that. GUYS, the attention-policer usually begins. How can you be talking about a dress/a leg/a pair of llamas/a dancing neoprene shark when climate change/net neutrality/marriage equality/ISIS/China/North Korea is going on?
The world, to be sure, is a complicated and often tragic and often deeply unfair place. It contains famines and genocides and war, births and deaths, Katy Perry and Björk, Big Macs and kale and Bloomin' Onions, privilege and the lack of it, llamas that are caged and llamas that are free. And we humans—animals who are striving to be so much more—have a big say in the balance between the good and the bad. We should not be glib about any of that. Nor should we lose sight of the fact that, if you find yourself with the ability to use the most transformational communications platform the world has ever known to engage in debates about the color of a dress being sold on Amazon dot com, you are, fundamentally, extremely privileged. And thus in a better position than most to make the world better. Attention is a valuable thing; we have an obligation to be selective about where we direct it.
And yet. The problem with attention-policing—besides the fact that it tends to be accompanied by humorlessness and marmery, and besides the other fact that it serves mostly to amplify the ego of the person doing the policing—is that it undermines the value of Internet memes themselves. Those memes, whether they involve #thedress or #llamadrama or #leftshark or #whathaveyou, are culturally lubricating. They create, and reinforce, the imagined community. Last night, we needed each other—not just to share and joke and laugh, but also to prove to ourselves that we weren’t going completely crazy. “TELL ME WHAT COLOR THIS DRESS IS,” I texted a friend. “OKAY, PHEW,” I texted again, when he saw it as white-and-gold. I also, on the other hand, mock-disowned a significant percentage of the people I love in a haze of #whiteandgold partisanship—but even that kind of faux-fighting has its value. Theorists of play, from Huizinga to Piaget, have pointed out how powerful the infrastructures of games can be. They allow us to explore ideas and bond in a mutually-agreed-upon environment. Jane McGonigal, the game designer and theorist, suggests that the alternate universes provided by video games allow us to think in terms of collaboration and problem-solving. Games’ constraints, she argues, are actually empowering.
And what are memes if not games? They are small; they are low-stakes; they are often silly. (Sorry, #llamadrama.) But they are also communal. They invite us to participate, to adapt, to joke, to create something together, under the auspices of the same basic rules. That is not a small thing. That is, in fact, a huge thing—particularly when it comes to the very concerns the attention police like to remind us of. If we have any hope of solving the world’s most systemic and sweeping problems, we will have to come together. Inequality, climate change, injustices both enormous and less so … these will require cooperative action. They will require us to collaborate and compromise and value diversity. The dress makes a pretty good metaphor for all that. Also, it is totally white and gold.
This article was originally published at http://www.theatlantic.com/technology/archive/2015/02/thedress-and-the-rise-of-attention-policing/386357/
<3 <3 <3
A guide to washing machine / laundry symbols.
via multitask suicide
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 United States License.
(otters: "I like this but those tables and railings are going to get fucking filthy")
The History of the New York Subway as a GIF
A fun little GIF from Appealing Industries that shows the construction of the modern New York Subway in sequence. I’d really like it to be just a little slower, and have a year clock somewhere. Bonus points would have been awarded for showing the construction and eventual demolition of the elevated lines as well. Still nicely done, and almost mesmeric after a while.
Compare with this GIF of the Boston “T”.
Source: Appealing Industries website via quite a few readers this morning
There will never be another new episode of Parks And Recreation. This fact cannot be denied, no matter how hard we try. However, hope need not fade so long as fans keep posting remembrances, retrospectives, video remixes, and other such tributes until the gods take pity on them and fold time back on itself, allowing everyone to experience the magic of the series anew.
With that goal in mind, here is a list of books, both real and fictional, that were embraced by key members of the Parks And Recreation gang over the course of the show. With titles like Air Force Nøne and Mulch Ado About Nothing, the list demonstrates that the Parks writers had a facility with wordplay that rivaled that of The Simpsons writers and their famously hilarious signage.
"...But I don't think every sweater you get from Goodwill has demons in it."
|Courtney shared this story from Super Opinionated.|
His final posting: "A life is like a garden. Perfect moments can be had, but not preserved, except in memory. [Live Long and Prosper.]"Read the rest
Netflix's House of Cards has already had its share of memorable video game cameos — remember Frank Underwood saying, "Is that a PS Vita?" oh so product placement-y? — but one video game plays an important role in the show's newly released third season ... in which a fiction writer and video game reviewer is tapped to write the President's biography.
The game is ustwo's award-winning Monument Valley, which Underwood plays thoughtfully in the season's fifth episode. Later in the episode, Underwood invites writer Thomas Yates to the White House to offer him a biography writing gig. In order to convince Yates that he's the right man for the job, Underwood reads back to him his write-up on Monument Valley.
"You read my video game reviews?" Yates responds incredulously.
"I tend to play shoot 'em ups," Underwood says, an interest we've seen in previous episodes. "The indie games don't really interest me. I need adrenaline, action ... but when I read this, I had to try it. If you can convince me to be a silent princess with just 100 words, imagine how many millions you can convince with this book. You are a salesman, Thomas."
"I wasn't trying to sell anything, just describe my experience," Yates says.
So there you go. The leap from reviewing video games to writing a presidential biography is not such a big one anymore.
The makers of Monument Valley had some nice things to say about their game's cameo in a tweet earlier today.
Monument Valley isn't the only indie game cameo in season 3. In a later episode, Frank is confounded by the appeal of The Stanley Parable, which he's introduced to by Thomas.
I was at Indian Rock at the time
Electron microscope image of the virus responsible for measles (paramyxoviridae). Photo: Alain Grillet/Sanofi Pasteur
The City of Berkeley has issued an alert after an adult with measles visited La Mediterranée restaurant in Berkeley on the evening of Friday February 20.
The city is advising that patrons at the Elmwood neighborhood restaurant during that time should monitor themselves for symptoms until March 13.
The person, a San Mateo County resident, was at the restaurant on 2936 College Ave. from approximately 6:45 to 8 p.m. that Friday, the city said in a release about the incident issued at around 8 p.m. on Thursday Feb. 26.
“The measles virus can linger in the air for up to two hours, so those at the restaurant until 10 p.m. could have been exposed. The risk is very slight for those who have received the recommended two doses of the vaccine,” read the statement.(...)
Read the rest of Berkeley reports possible case of measles exposure (508 words)
I am hoping this will be very pretty
slurpees with a vengeance
via suburban koala
Dang! Have you ever seen waves get so cold they turn to slurpee? We haven’t. So when surfer/photographer/Stay Wild contributor Jonathan Nimerfroh showed us these sweet shots he captured in Nantucket we had to share. When we asked Jonathan what the fawk this was all about he said, “Just been super cold here. The harbor to the main land is frozen solid. No boats running.But yea, the day after I took these it actually froze up the shoreline for 200 yards out. Solid ice. I was totally tripping when I pulled up to the beach and saw this.”
via suburban koala
i don’t think i have ever been this angry before 8am.