Russian Sledges

Article by Elizabeth Lorang, Leen-Kiat Soh, Maanas Varma Datla and Spencer Kulwicki, University of Nebraska--Lincoln

395,50 USD

A rare and stunning 1920s emerald green silk velvet cape with thick trapunto shoulder detail, tie collar and one button closure at the neck.

--- M E A S U R E M E N T S ---

fits like: one size fits most
shoulder: approx. 13-15"
bust: free
waist: free
hip: free
length: 40"
brand/maker: n/a
condition: some faint discoloration at the bottom-side, easily unnoticed

✩ layaway is available for this item

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Marissa Nadler has covered the likes of Elliott Smith and Karen Dalton. This week, the goth-folk songwriter turns her attention to Black Sabbath’s Master of Reality track “Solitude”, and it’s an absolute match made in heaven, err, a gloomy underworld.

Nadler exorcised demons on her last album, 2014’s widely-acclaimed July, and she does the same on this gorgeous yet unnerving rendition. Here, her voice dissipates ever so slowly when she sings, like a ghost that won’t quit its haunting mission, while stark guitar lines ring out seemingly as a harbinger of the doomsday to come. I don’t know if Nadler’s ever considered fronting a black metal band, but she’d be a goddamn perfect fit.

Listen/download her “Solitude” cover below.

Isabella reporting,

As all of you who follow me on Facebook or Instagram already know, I visited the Metropolitan Museum of Art in NY on Monday. As usual, I went to the big shows and checked in on my "old friends" - favorite paintings and galleries that I've been enjoying since I was a teenager.

But there was also one special exhibition that made me ooh and ahh with delight. It was very small - a single tiny gallery with three display cases tucked away downstairs - and it didn't have international sponsors, audio guides, or flashing video displays.

Elaborate Embroidery: Fabrics for Menswear before 1815 was exactly what the title says: dozens of richly embroidered samples of velvets and silks for the elegant clothes worn by wealthy 18thc. European gentlemen. And wow, was it breathtaking! The exhibition runs only until July 19, 2015.

Formal menswear at this time had evolved to a standard three pieces: a coat, waistcoat, and breeches. Bright colored silks and velvets, rich silk embroidery, and sequin and paste jewel embellishments were not simply the mark of the male peacock - they were considered signs of wealth, power, and station, and they were required for evening wear and appearances at Court. The most skilled embroiderers were based in Paris, and the beauty and precision of their handiwork has never been rivaled.

The coat and waistcoat were the primary canvas for embroidered designs, with even the buttons (see here and here) making a fashion statement. The designs were embroidered on flat pieces by professional embroiderers, with the pieces then being made up into garments by tailors. These embroidered samples must have helped a gentleman make his choices, matching patterns, colors, fabrics, and degree of ornamentation. (Examples of finished garments here and here.)

There were a couple of the flat embroidered garments that had never been made up in the exhibition, as well as a copy of 1770's L'Art du Bordeur by Charles Germain de Saint-Aubin c.1786, and a French scrapbook of designs that was probably a record of one shop's output, with each design numbered.

But the stars of the show were the embroidered swatches, with beautifully worked designs to suit every taste and pocketbook. I hope you'll click on the images to enlarge them and see the phenomenal detail - which will also bring them to about their actual size. The names of these master embroiderers may be long forgotten, but fortunately their exquisite work remains.

Here's a link to the Museum's blog about the exhibition for more information.

Embroidery samples, late 18th-early 19thc. French. Metropolitan Museum of Art. 
Photographs © 2015 Susan Holloway Scott.

デンマークのデザイナー、リサ・グルーさんのテキスタイル、「スカンジナビアンダイアリー」のOwls（フクロウ）柄を使ったバッグです。北欧テイストあふれる個性的な柄を生かしてスタイリッシュなバッグを作ってくれたのは、ハンドメイド作家で人気ブロガーの中山佳苗さん。バッグの前と後ろでフクロウの柄を変えて、両方楽しめるように柄取りしてくれました。

フクロウバッグについて、中山さんにいろいろとお尋ねしました。
KF （コッカファブリック：以下、KF) 今回使った布の印象を教えてください。
「これぞ北欧！」とも思える個性的な絵柄に心が躍りました。
どの部分をどのように見せるか？　と考えたとき、「両面ともインパクトがあるバッグにしよう！」と思いました。

KF:作品についての特徴や工夫した点は？
物がたくさん入るようにマチをたっぷり取りました。そして、入口部分につけたスナップを留めることでバッグが台形になり、とてもスタイリッシュな形になるようなデザインにしました。

KF:実際に作るときのアドバイスをお願いします。
脇マチの底の部分だけを先に縫うことによって、両サイドバランスよくきれいにマチが縫いつけられると思います。

KF:実際にはどんなふうに使うといいのでしょうか？
絵柄の部分は両サイドともポケットになっています。しかもとても深いので中のものが落ちる心配も少ないです。Ａ４サイズのものも余裕で入りますので、書類を入れると折れなくていいです。ＰＴＡ関係やお仕事の時にいかがでしょうか？

KF:中山さん、どうもありがとうございました！　フクロウバッグの作り方プロセスも中山さんに撮影していただきましたので、ぜひ、作り方シート（PDF)と合わせて参考にしてくださいね。

フクロウバッグの作り方

1.

まちを縫う。大きなポケット（メインになる部分）の上部の縫い代を三つ折りにしてミシンで縫ったものを本体表布(黒布）の上に乗せ、ポケットの入口から下のサイドと底をミシンで仮止めしておく。反対側も同じようにする

2.

脇まちの底中心を縫い、縫い代を割る。本体の底中心と脇まちの底中心を中表に合わせ、まず、底部分のみでき上がり線(黄線）を縫う。角まで来たら返し縫いをしていったん糸を切る。

3.

角のところでマチ側に切り込み(５mm)を入れる。

4.

切り込み部分からまちの方向変換！上部に向かって本体と脇まちをまち針で留めて、入口まで縫う。反対側も同じ。中布の方は返し口を開けておく。

5.

表に返したところ。

6.

持ち手を作る。メイン部分２枚は柄の出方を考えて切り取るので、残った布が細長かったり、フクロウが切れていたりする。そこで、あえてその部分を持ち手用に使う。16ｃｍ×40ｃｍを２本、柄を気にせず裁断する。両端は中側に折り込むので耳端も使える。４つ折りにしたら両サイドをミシンでステッチする。

7.

持ち手と持ち手の間は12ｃｍ。本体に仮止めしておく。

8.

中袋と外袋を中表で合わせる時は、マチと本体の切り替え部分や中心をきっちり合わせて、まち針で留め、ぐるりと１周縫い、表に返してもう一度一周縫う。返し口を縫い閉じ、スナップをつけ、底板を入れて完成！

コッカファブリックでは、引き続きこちらのCraft&Sewingのコーナーで作品を作ってくださる手作り作家さんを募集しています。詳しくはこちらをご覧ください。

Parish Church, Dielsdorf, Switzerland, 1964

(Justus Dahinden)

forgetpolitics:

Princess Mononoke (1997) | Dir. Hayao Miyazaki

everything I want in life

sixpenceee:

A secret ballroom lies under this lake, with a statue of Neptune above it. It was built in the late 1800s by Whitaker Wright, a businessman. The roof of the ballroom is paned in translucent glass to let light filter through from the water above. Now owned by entrepreneur Gary Steele, it lies empty. (Source)

Mexico Goes Morrissey

Mexrissey is a wonderful tribute band that performs songs by Morrissey and The Smiths in Spanish with an original twist of mariachi. Fronted by DJ Camilo Lava and bandleader Sergio Mendoza, the band blends together the distinctive sound of the artist with the traditional music of Mexico.

Delving into Mexico’s unlikely obsession for all-things-Morrissey, Mexico City-based DJ and producer Camilo Lara, founder of the electronic music project Mexican Institute of Sound (M.I.S.), together with bandleader Sergio Mendoza (Orkesta Mendoza/Calexico) has assembled a super-group of Mexico’s leading contemporary musicians, paying homage to the iconic Smiths frontman. Through M.I.S., Lara has developed a reputation for blending traditional music with more modern sounds and with this project he explores the relationship between Mexico and Morrissey, reinventing his work with brass, accordion and other Mexican elements.

images via Mexrissey

Thanks Vincent LaCava!

Wilco has taken all manner of strange turns in its 21 years, from alt-country stalwarts to noise-pop progressivists to its current incarnation as dad-rock standard bearers. Today the band took one of its strangest and most delightful twists to date, dropping a free full-length album on its fans called Star Wars. Downloading it requires offering an email address, which signs you up for the band's mailing list.

The 11-track, 33-minute record, whose cover is represented by a painting of a white cat, finds the band picking up more or less where it left off with 2011's The Whole Love, which is to say rootsy, feel-good, backyard barbecue jams with just a hint of the "American Radiohead" weirdness that made 2002's Yankee Hotel Foxtrot an...

Continue reading…

Norway started out as a kingdom in 872 and has existed ever since. It has also saved quite a bit of its traditional architecture. Traditional Norwegian architecture makes it look like a land out of a fairytale. Stave churches – so named because of the Norse words for their load-bearing poles – were extremely popular back in the 12th century, and their unique shape matched with all-wooden construction make is simply spectacular.

Norvegian vernacular (as in, built to local requirements and using local materials) architecture is wonderful. Moss and even trees grow on the roofs of wooden or stone buildings, making Norway a sort of Norse Shire. Have a look, and plan your next holiday accordingly!

(h/t: boredpanda)

Borgund Stave Church

Source: Tnarik Innael

Source: Robert Cross

Barn In Valldal

Source: thornews.com

Renndølsetra

Source: reddit.com

Ancient Road Vindhellavegen

Source: youtube.com

Bridge Over Låtefossen Waterfall

Source: Max Rive

Under The Aurora

Source: Hans Marius Mindrum

Kvednafossen Waterfall In Norway

Source: Lars Neumann

At The End Of The World, Tjome

Source: Allan Pedersen

Old Farmhouses

Source: SoyabaraJohnny99

Natural Swimming Pool In The Forest

Source: Strezz69

Old House

Source: Slemulv

A House In Norway

Source: Robert Snow

Old Village

Source: imgur.com

Fjord Houses

Source: AdMixStar

A Bridge In Norway

Source: Will Zhang

Rogaland, Gullingen

Source: dmitryprofi

Lake Bondhus

Source: Jindra Rotscheid

Fairy House In Hunderfossen, Lillehammer

Source: Ester Ayerdi

Fisherman Hut, Undredal

Source: Ester Ayerdi

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loveinexcess:

Then there’s this little number, perfect for brooding alone in the half-light about how your ruthless commitment to your artistic vision is destroying your life and the lives of those you love.

idlesuperstar:

Undoubtedly the best performance came from Anton Walbrook. Emeric had written the part of Lermontov, the autocratic impresario, with him in mind. He had a repressed, pent-up energy about him that was perfect for the part. Emeric thought that Lermontov was one of the best characters he ever created, but he was too readily accused of basing him on the tyrannical impresario par excellence, Sergei Diaghilev. Emeric denied the charge: ‘There is something of Diaghilev, something of Alex Korda, something of Michael and quite a bit of me’. 

According to Shearer, it was only Anton Walbrook who ever persuaded Emeric to change lines, ‘because he trusted Anton more than any of us’.

Kevin MacDonald: Emeric Pressburger - the Life and Death Of A Screenwriter

There is more about Powell’s autocratic behaviour on set, but let’s not think about that (as it prompted Anton to swear to never work for the Archers again. Thankfully he relented. Imagine Oh Rosalinda!! without him! I can’t bear to.) Let’s think instead about how fucking tremendous Emeric is and how fucking tremendous Anton is too. 

‘The Red Shoes’, Michael Powell & Emeric Pressburger (1948)

tea-with-theo:

Anton Walbrook and Renate Müller, Viktor Und Viktoria, 1933.

Echochamber.js:

Echochamber.js is a third-party script you can install to add a simple comment form to your blog post or website.

When a user submits a comment, echochamber.js will save the comment to the user’s LocalStorage, so when they return to the page, they can be confident that their voice is being heard, and feel engaged with your very engaging content. It does not make any HTTP requests. Since LocalStorage is only local, you and your database need not be burdened with other people’s opinions.

Needless to say, reactions to the assertion that violence in video games is preventing the medium from reaching its full potential have been mixed. People get defensive about violence in video games. Amid the standard insults and gendered slurs hurled in the direction of the original poster, the loudest members of the opposition argue that without violence, Fallout, Skyrim, and Dragon Age “wouldn’t be games.”

mydarktv:

BLADE RUNNER || Aesthetics

He said members of the military and veterans told him that lowering the flag should be reserved as a way to pay respects to fallen soldiers and dignitaries who die. "I really understand that completely," Skiles said.

An all-Republican county commission in Missouri voted unanimously Monday to observe a full calendar year of “mourning” after the Supreme Court’s gay marriage decision, a protest that will include lowering flags to mark the somber occasion.

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Directed by Jason Woliner

We think circle skirts are the perfect simple and elegant dressmaking project, but we know we're not the only ones put off by the pesky sums involved. Well, no more! With our tool you can now consider the circle skirt officially 'maths-free'.