Well, anyway! I've been wearing both of these makes a ton since they came hot off of the sewing machine! I think that's a sign of a great basic! What about you guys - got any wardrobe basics planned for the near future?
xx
Russian SledgesI continue to think about sewing pants
Russian Sledges#wouldeat
345,00 USD
Vintage 1950s pewter gray lace dress with subtle dusty pink under layer, pretty sweetheart neckline, fitted waist, full skirt with wide plisse hem and metal back zipper. Shown with gray ribbon at the waist (included).
✂-----Measurements
fits like: small
bust: 32-34"
waist: 26"
hip: free
length: 47"
brand/maker: n/a
condition: excellent
To ensure a good fit, please read the sizing guide:
http://www.etsy.com/shop/DearGolden/policy
➸ More vintage dresses ✩
https://www.etsy.com/shop/DearGolden?section_id=5986725&ref=shopsection_leftnav_3
➸ Visit the shop ✩
http://www.DearGolden.etsy.com
_____________________
➸ instagram | deargolden
➸ twitter | deargolden
➸ facebook.com | deargolden
➸ blog | www.deargolden.com
Russian SledgesI received a distraught email about this
[Photo: Cal Bingham]
M3, a Southern restaurant in Somerville's Davis Square, is closed — at least for now. It has been seized by the state, reports Boston Restaurant Talk. In the Davis Square LiveJournal community, Ron Newman also shares the news, adding that a notice at the restaurant indicates that M3 allegedly owes landlord Christos Poutahidis $25,238. According to some recent Yelp reviews, the restaurant had stopped accepting credit cards at least as far back as May.
M3 opened in June 2012, featuring Southern-style "meat and three" dishes — an entree with three "fixings," plus a biscuit or cornbread. Located in a small space on the outskirts of Davis Square, it's in a strip of establishments that recently lost Kickass Cupcakes, which moved further down Highland Avenue before closing this month. It's unclear when or if M3 might reopen, and all has been quiet on its Facebook and Twitter accounts for quite some time.
· M3 has been seized by the state [BRT]
· M3 restaurant closed due to seizure [DSLJ]
· All coverage of M3 on Eater [~EBOS~]
Russian Sledgesand this
gonna do this for sure
So, I made some shoe bags.
Why?
I want to protect my nice shoes from dust and cat hair when I’m not wearing them. I also want to protect clean clothes from dirty shoe soles when packing my shoes in a suitcase.
Shouldn’t nice shoes come with shoe bags from the manufacturer?
Some companies include them, some don’t. Plus, sometimes I buy used shoes, and used shoes don’t always come with bags.
Aren’t used shoes gross?
When they are taken care of properly and in good condition, I don’t think so. I would rather have a really nice pair of used shoes than a crummy pair of new shoes for the same money. Full-grain leather shoes with the type of construction that allows for soles to be replaced can be expensive, and shoes don’t grow on trees. Really nice shoes can be found at a fraction of the full retail price at thrift stores and eBay. Do some research, figure out your size, and be ready when a good deal comes along.
If they don’t grow on trees, where do shoes come from?
Many shoes “grow” on cows, and the animal lover in me isn’t quite sure what to think about this. I know, humans have been wearing animal skin for eons, and at certain points in human history, our lives probably depended on using animal skin for protection.
But, we live in a modern world with alternatives and synthetic leather, wouldn’t those be better than using real leather?
Synthetic materials seem (I don’t know for certain) as if they would be bad for the environment to produce (I do recognize that large scale livestock production probably isn’t so good for the environment either). But, synthetic materials don’t break in or wear like nice leather. Leather may crease, but synthetics crack, and peel, and look awful…meh….first world problems…but at least we wouldn’t be killing animals for their skin. Like I said, I’m not sure what to think about this. I guess if we are killing the cows for food, we might as well use the hides for shoes…?
Isn’t this a blog about sewing menswear, why so much shoe talk?
Because I like shoes. And if I’m spending all this time making clothes for myself, my shoe game had better be decent. Part of dressing like a grown up is wearing grown up shoes.
Why don’t you make shoes too?
Because my wife won’t let me. The machines are too big and expensive. The learning curve would be huge, and I don’t have time.
If you buy decent quality shoes to begin with and take good care of them, they will last a long time. You will probably save money in the long run. Put them in shoe bags and use shoe trees when you aren’t wearing them. Also, give your shoes a proper cleaning/conditioning when they need it. Nobody likes stinky feet or stinky shoes.
Russian Sledgesalso gonna sew bags
After experimenting with backpacks last summer (Roll top 1, Roll top 2), I got hooked on bag design. My roll top packs have been good travel companions, but occasionally there are times when I need something a little smaller with easy access zipper pockets. Filson makes some of the best shoulder bags on the planet, and naturally I looked to them for inspiration. If I didn’t enjoy making my own gear, I would be saving my money for a Filson briefcase style bag instead.
I used 18oz canvas, heavy duty Riri zippers, cotton webbing and seam tape throughout. The front exterior pocket has places for pens, keys, and other small items. Within the main compartment is a sleeve for an iPad, phone pocket, and two slightly deeper billow style pockets for larger objects.
On the backside is a flat, snap closure pocket for a newspaper, magazine, boarding pass, etc. The shoulder strap is adjustable and removable if I want to carry it more like a briefcase. The bottoms of bags and packs usually show signs of wear first, so I decided to brush the bottom panel (not shown) with a thick layer of latex for durability.
Anyone who follows me on Instagram has seen pictures of this project in progress. Here is a little collage of iPhone photos that start with the initial drawing, move to the pattern making process, then pattern testing and construction, and lastly the final bag.
From here I think I am moving on from bags and packs for a little while and back to clothing. I know I’ve talked about making a men’s jacket/blazer several times, and even started work on it a long time ago. It’s time to actually do it. So, that’s my plan. I’m currently looking for a jacket drafting system that I can use to create the pattern. Once I find one, it will probably take me most of the summer (and beyond) to get the fit right and properly learn how to put a jacket together.
Today I have a few specific fit adjustments for you, lengthening and shortening the pattern, moving darts, and a full bust adjustment. For all of these images you can click for the full sized view.
First up is lengthening and shortening the dress. I’l be showing the skirt here.
1. Start by locating the pattern piece you need to adjust. Depending on what piece you’re altering there may or may not be lines to denote where you should lengthen & shorten between. If there are no lines, you can draw in your own.
2. Cut between the lines. With a piece of paper underneath the pattern, spread the two sections the amount you need to lengthen your piece making sure to keep the grain line of the two pieces aligned.
3. Trace your piece off onto the paper and re-blend any jagged edges along the side seam and repeat the adjustment to any affected pieces.
You can also follow the above steps with any part of the pattern. Here’s an example of how you could raise and lower the armhole while moving the dart lower at the same time. If you need to lengthen or shorten just the bottom of the torso, perform the same steps with a line perpendicular to the center back running out through the center of the side seam.
If you find that the torso is the correct length but you need to move the dart here are some easy steps to do so. We’re going to be moving the dart down in this tutorial but if you need to raise it you can do the opposite.
1. Draw a line through the bust point parallel to the CF/grain line. Place a mark along that line at the point where you need to lower the dart. If you need to lower the dart 1″ you would place the mark 1″ below the existing bust point.
2. Move the legs down the same amount down from where they connect at the side seams. Reconnect the dart legs to the dart point.
3. You’re going to now need to fold the dart, since you’ve moved it the dart take-up is now in the wrong place at the side seam. Fold the dart so that the dart excess points down towards the waist and re-blend the side seam. Trim off the extra.
4. This is your new pattern.
Now lets talk Full Bust Adjustments. This is something that I don’t have a ton of experience with being that typically when I’m making a pattern, either for myself or a client, I know what bust size I’m starting with and the pattern is drafted for that. As I said in the previous post the Alder pattern is drafted for a B cup so if you’re a C you may be able to get away without a FBA. The illustrations are cropped for better detail but any vertical lines should extend to the bottom of the pattern piece.
1. Select your size based on your upper bust & waist measurements. Cut size.
2. Draw a line from the apex of the dart out through the center of the dart legs splitting the dart in half. Next you’re going to draw a vertical line from the apex down to the hemline of the pattern piece making sure to keep the line parallel to the CF / grain line. From there draw a line connecting the apex to the approximate center of the armscye. These are the lines that will form the full bust adjustment. Additionally you’re going to need a line across the torso, perpendicular to the CF / grain line in order to line the hem up in a future step. I made this one dotted so that it doesn’t get confused with the adjustment lines.
3. Slash through the waistline to the bust and up to the armscye taking care to cut to, but not through, the pattern at that point. You want to make sure that the two pieces are hinged together. Then slice through the dart line you drew to, but not through, the bust point. You’ll then open the vertical slit the amount of your full bust adjustment making sure that the two edges of the opening are parallel.
PLEASE NOTE: The illustrations here are drawn without seam allowances for ease of explanation. When clipping to the armscye clip just to the seam line (1/2″ on the pattern) and then clip to, but not through the seam allowance to the seam line keeping the piece hinged.
To find the amount of your full bust adjustment subtract your upper bust measurement from your full bust measurement. Take this number (the total adjustment) and divide it by 2 to get the amount you need to increase on one side. So say your full bust was 38 and your upper bust was 36 you’d subtract 38-36=2/2=1 so your adjustment would be 1″.
4. You’ll notice that when you move the side out for the adjustment the center front panel became shorter than the piece you moved. Cut along the line you drew in step 2 and align the newly freed piece so that it’s even with both the center front and the dotted line on the side piece.
5. Find the center of the dart legs and mark a line through the center of the dart (dotted line above). This will help you when folding the dart in the next step. Then draw your lines from the dart legs to the apex.
6. Fold the dart legs together with the takeup pointing to the bottom of the garment and re-blend the side seam. I like to score the top dart leg and center line lightly with an awl to help the pattern fold right where you want it to on the first try. You can either cut across the side seam / dart or mark it with a pattern tracing wheel and cut when the dart is open.
7. Unfold the dart and cut out your new piece.
That’s all, tomorrow we start cutting!
Russian Sledgesvia rosalind
An adorable retro shape, fun colours (so your options are not just black, white or stainless)....what's not to love about a Smeg fridge?!
Joséphine Gintzburger
Russian Sledgesvia rosalind
#fishplease
Russian Sledgesvia multitask suicide
#dystopia
Royal College of Art design graduate David Hedberg created a TV set that operates only when you are smiling. (more…)
Russian Sledgesvia multitask suicide
"The general consensus here: if this is militarization, it's the shittiest, least-trained, least professional military in the world, using weapons far beyond what they need, or what the military would use when doing crowd control." [Storify]
Russian Sledgesvia kellygo
Russian Sledgeshave you heard of my new band, Houndstooth Penguin?
8.40 USD
∆∆∆ ON SALE ∆∆∆
100% cotton reversible double knit
50cm x 150cm (19" x 59") Extra wide.
If you would like continuous yardage please change the quantity at the checkout.
Parcels are shipped via small packet international airmail from Japan.
Japan Post does not provide tracking numbers for small packet airmail.
A shipping upgrade with a tracking number and insurance can be purchased
for an additional $5. If you would like to upgrade to registered small packet airmail
please let me know.
Thank you.
All images © Miss Matatabi
Russian Sledgesattn #teamcake
3.50 USD
PATISSERIE by Yuwa
100% quilting cotton
Lightweight.
1 x fat quarter (50cm x 55cm , 19 inches x 21 inches)
If you would like continuous yardage please change the quantity at the checkout.
Parcels are shipped via small packet international airmail from Japan.
Japan Post does not provide tracking numbers for small packet airmail.
A shipping upgrade with a tracking number and insurance can be purchased
for an additional $5. If you would like to upgrade to registered small packet airmail
please let me know.
Thank you.
All images © Miss Matatabi
6.00 USD
Kobayashi geo polar bears double gauze
100% cotton
Lightweight double gauze
1/2 metre (50cm x 110cm , 19" x 43")
If you would like continuous yardage please change the quantity at the checkout.
Parcels are shipped via small packet international airmail from Japan.
Japan Post does not provide tracking numbers for small packet airmail.
A shipping upgrade with a tracking number and insurance can be purchased
for an additional $5. If you would like to upgrade to registered small packet airmail
please let me know.
Thank you.
All images © Miss Matatabi
9.00 USD
High quality linen with embroidered leaves
100% linen
Light weight and sheer.
1/2 metre (50cm x 104cm, 19" x 40" wide)
If you would like continuous yardage please change the quantity at the checkout.
Parcels are shipped via small packet international airmail from Japan.
Japan Post does not provide tracking numbers for small packet airmail.
A shipping upgrade with a tracking number and insurance can be purchased
for an additional $5. If you would like to upgrade to registered small packet airmail
please let me know.
Thank you.
Russian Sledges"no, fuckhead, you are not a storyteller, you are a rollercoaster designer, and that's fantastic"
In the war against people who call themselves “storytellers”, Stefan Sagmeister has my sword, my axe, and any other sharp implement I can find.
Russian Sledgesvia multitask suicide
Russian Sledgesvia rosalind
As some of you may know, I spend half my week playing creative for this rad lil sock purveyor Odd Pears.
Our Spring range (that I happened to design!) has just gone live.
Have a play on our brand new website, check out our collaboration with Phebe Shmidt in all its hi-res glory, and maybe order some Pears?!
Have a peep - www.oddpears.com
Russian Sledgesvia bernot
Russian Sledgesnomination for best new restaurant in bon appetit
I resent this "brooklyn" nonsense, though
Russian Sledges"CAMBRIDGE — On September 22, head to Sofra for a cooking class on frozen treats with executive pastry chef Maura Kilpatrick and pastry chef Molly Rabideau. Your $85 ticket includes recipe demonstrations, tastings, and wine pairings."
is there anything that doesn't come with wine pairings now?
SEAPORT DISTRICT — Taste of the Seaport, which was supposed to take place tomorrow afternoon, has been moved to this Thursday, August 14, due to the chance of rain tomorrow. It'll take place from noon to 1:30 p.m. in South Boston Maritime Park, at the intersection of D Street & Congress Street. Free and open to the public. [FB]
CAMBRIDGE — There are a few tickets left for Season to Taste's upcoming beer dinner with Will Meyers of Cambridge Brewing Company, taking place this Friday evening, August 15. Tickets are $125 and include beer-paired dishes like octopus and razor clam choucroute and a duo of rabbit preparations. [Eventbrite]
CAMBRIDGE — On September 22, head to Sofra for a cooking class on frozen treats with executive pastry chef Maura Kilpatrick and pastry chef Molly Rabideau. Your $85 ticket includes recipe demonstrations, tastings, and wine pairings. [Eventbrite]
[Photo: Sofra/Facebook]
Russian Sledges<3 lone star
Lizzy's, an East Cambridge restaurant that closed temporarily in early 2013 but reopened for awhile, is now closed for good. "To all my friends...Josh and The Lizzbians bid you a fond final farewell," the restaurant posted on Facebook on August 8. "Take care of yourselves and each other. So long and thanks for all the fish, hope you had the time of your life."
Popular Allston restaurant Lone Star Taco Bar is expanding across the river, taking over the Lizzy's space. A month ago, the upcoming restaurant was granted a liquor license. Stay tuned for an opening timeline.
· All coverage of Lizzy's on Eater [~EBOS~]
· All coverage of Lone Star Taco Bar on Eater [~EBOS~]
[Photo: Yelp/Kathy K.]
Russian Sledgesvia otters
Steve Wildy is the beverage director for the Vetri Family restaurant group in Philadelphia. He is @sommillionaire on twitter. Americans have long appreciated the fruits of Emilia-Romagna: Delicately savory mortadella, nutty Parmigiano-Reggiano, sweetly aged balsamic vinegar. And now, the region’s wine exports are finally catching up to the quality of its food. Like Soave, Pinot Grigio, Valpolicella, and even Chianti, the Lambrusco that’s hit our shores in the 70s and 80s past has been overly sweet and frankly bland—watered down by industrialized mass production. But nary a drop of the real, dry stuff landed on these shores until the mid-nineties. If you have any memory of Lambrusco before that point, you’re probably thinking of Riunite—you may remember the advertising tag line Riunite on ice, that’s nice. Each bottle popped and sloshed at every volcano lamp-lit house party was the sort of candied, Welch’s-scented, soda-pop wine that went down easy to the tune of millions of cases a year. I don’t blame you if you think that sounds terrible, and I especially don’t blame you if you lived through it and can feel a hangover setting in at the mere mention of the word Lambrusco. But no need to reach for the Alka-Seltzer when you and your guests can find a miracle cure in the fizz of the real stuff—the stuff that real Italians have been drinking all along. Forget the old adage about always having a bottle of Champagne in the fridge—here are the Lambruscos you should stock for parties instead: Medici Ermete, Lambrusco Salomino Concerto $23 The first to introduce the classic, dry, cork-stopped style to a fructose-fatigued nation of Lambrusco drinkers was Medici Ermete in 1995, and they still make some of the best. Look to their Concerto as the perfect first sip for the uninitiated: frothy inky purple in the glass and bursting with concord grape and sweet tart aromas, the disassociation from Riunite doesn’t fully click until it hits your lips. This is wine and wine first, with tannin, acidity, fruit, earth, complexity, oh and bubbles too. Venturini Baldini, Lambrusco Emilia $15 The organic Venturini Baldini has just a little more natural sweetness to put it in in the same legendary pizza pairing camp as one Coca Cola. Beyond this classic match, it’s versatile enough to enjoy with almost anything - tons of fruit, balanced acidity, a touch of spice, and a cleansing perlage that also makes it festive and fun to drink. BBQ, Burgers, backyard anything really, and it even looks just fine in a solo cup. Alfredo Bertolani, Lambrusco Rose $16 While Lambrusco is tough to beat with food, there may be no greater mood pairing wine than sparkling rose. The simple act of pouring it for friends announces an intent to celebrate in the classiest of ways. As an example of the smaller category of Rose Lambrusco, this gem from Bertolani is the best of both worlds: pale violet in both color and aroma, gently effervescent and seductively hinting at sweetness. This is…
Russian Sledges#beacon
etc.
Russian Sledgesvia multitask suicide
Step into any vintage shop today and you’ll find the surviving traces of a once-great American footwear-manufacturing sector. To sure, good shoes are still being produced in the US, but the industry isn’t what it used to be. Its last heave was in the 1940s and ‘50s, when companies were bolstered one last time by a boom in sales – first from the US government, who needed to supply troops abroad with quality shoes, and then from the growing domestic workforce in the immediate postwar period.
Since the ‘60s, however, things have gone into steep decline. The introduction of affordable synthetics and increased competition from abroad have forced many companies into producing cheap crap. Just compare anything made nowadays by firms such as Stacy Adams and Bass, to what they produced seventy-five years ago, and your mind will be blown.
Today, there are only a few companies that still produce in the US, unless you count the small number of handsewn moccasin manufacturers and few bespoke makers of cowboy boots. Of the big companies, most have off-shored much of their production, even if they’ve kept some of it here. Heck, even some shoes stamped “Made in the USA” aren’t necessarily made here at all. When Allen Edmonds was sold in 2006, for example, and ownership passed from John Stollenwerk to the Minnesota-based equity firm Goldner Hawn Johnson & Morrison, the company shut down their Lewiston, Maine factory and opened a new one in the Dominican Republic. There, some shoes are half produced and then sent back to the company’s main plant in Port Washington, Wisconsin, where they’re “finished” and stamped with a “Made in the USA” label, while others are fully produced in the Dominican Republic and correctly labeled as such.
Not that I necessarily blame them, to be honest. Competition has been stiff, and Allen Edmonds is one of the few holdouts for American manufacturing (partially, fully, or otherwise). In 2008, Goldner Hawn had to invest another $10 million into their shoe company just to keep doors from closing, while other investors simply wrote off their stakes and backed out. Goldner Hawn has since sold their shares to a private equity firm in Los Angeles, and it’s said they made a profit on their investment, but the future of Allen Edmonds is still unclear.
In any case, here are some scans of vintage Allen Edmonds catalogs, which span from 1956 to 1988. Some might call these the Golden Years of American footwear. Others might say they were the Golden Hour.
Enjoy this Flickr set of 19th-century and Medieval/Renaissance "Danse Macabre" illustrations.
The message conveyed by these collections is also largely the same - “memento mori” - remember your mortality. They served to remind people that they could die at any time, and that they should turn to God/the Church *now*, because they might not be around tomorrow.
This imagery may have its roots in horror and penitence, but it’s difficult not to enjoy the humour in these scenes.
Russian Sledgesvia firehose
otters: "r.i.p., those two guys"
Rosalind: "what guys"
Russian Sledgeshyhomnb, Imperial Apple?