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Artist and designer Ashley Eva Brock. All photos by Jessica Holland
"Björk is
not an artist," the Brazilian fashion designer Geova Rodrigues said forcefully
at the opening reception for the singer's much-anticipated exhibition last
night at MoMA. He was sipping champagne underneath a spectacular black,
feathery fascinator, and he said that that his favorite artists were Van Gogh
and Picasso. "She is a musician," he said. "But I love her."
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Designer Geova Rodrigues
Reviews of the
show have started coming in that use phrases like "unambitious hodgepodge," "bad, really bad," and "I felt sad and embarrassed leaving the museum." It turns out that a bunch of inanimate objects—dresses, robot mannequins, an airmail jacket—no matter
how beautiful or iconic, can't capture the singer's mercurial spirit.
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Elliot Young
What the party
managed to do, on the other hand, was show her impact on a generation, from the
20-something Biophilia fans, who were
the only people dancing in front of the DJ booth, to artists like the Icelandic
hair sculptor Hrafnhildur Arnardottir (a.k.a. Shoplifter), whose own ponytail
was bound up in a kind of black-gridded hairnet, and who was hanging out with
fashion consultant Edda Gudmundsdottir. (Both have worked on Björk's
avant-garde looks.)
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Peaches and friend
It's a
testament to the breadth of Björk's talent that it's impossible to generalize about
her admirers and friends, other than to say that they are good at being themselves,
and that they aren't afraid of wearing outlandish clothes.
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Artist Juliana Huxtable and friend
"She makes
people want to show off," said MoMA visuals manager Jade White, who saw the
singer buying "two or three gigantic bird feeders" at MoMA's design store with
her daughter, Isadora, earlier. "She's an icon, man. She puts Lady Gaga to
shame."
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Graphic designer Victor John Villanueva
Although the
singer herself only made a brief appearance, Peaches and Le1f were circulating,
and looking fabulous, as was the star artist of the New Museum Triennial,
Juliana Huxtable, but there was a lot of competition for who was best dressed.
Susanne
Bartsch, the influential party promoter, looked like an evil, seductive sprite
in a sheer, floor-length black gown over a corset and suspenders, with
eyelashes that reached to her hairline and a black pointy headpiece that was
somewhere in between a unicorn's horn and a witch's hat.
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Promoter Susanne Bartsch
"She's the
shit," she said of Angela Goding, the MoMA PS1 director of development, who
joined her on the mezzanine overlooking the ground floor. "No, she's the
shit," Goding insisted, pointing out that Bartsch had achieved generation-defining,
fashion-icon status in her own right.
The designer
and artist Ashley Eva Brock, who made leg-warmers that were in the exhibition,
could have been a benign cult leader from the future in a hooded dress dyed
with indigo. She'd used seawater for the process, collected near her home in
northern California, because it was eco-friendly, she said, and because she's
kind of a hippie.
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Heidi Lee and friend
It was a
crowded field, but my vote for the look of the night goes to the scientifically
minded milliner Heidi Lee, who was wearing her "Endless Echo Hat." 3D-printed
from a scan of her own face, it made her look like a robot with eight overlapping
faces, and according to Lee, is intended to raise questions about surveillance
technologies and the age of the selfie.
The night ended
early, and the only climactic moments were when a plasma globe suspended above
everyone's heads crackled with electricity in the middle and at the end, but
still, the event was full of clashing opinions, boundary-pushing couture, and
active artists of every imaginable kind. It did a good job of encapsulating
Bjork's boundless, curious energy—better, some might say, than a swan dress on
a mannequin.