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22 Dec 21:20

‘It is also November. The noons are more laconi...

by Caterina Fake

‘It is also November. The noons are more laconic and the sunsets sterner… November always seemed to me the Norway of the year.’

— Emily Dickinson to E.H, 1865

16 Dec 17:35

Race Relief

by Caterina Fake

I didn’t have much of a beauty regime before the lockdown and it’s also the case that I’ve not increased my attention to my appearance since. My disregard for my appearance has always irritated some of the people around me, who believed I could advance myself further in the world if I would just comb my hair. But I’ve always felt that, like men who are not interested in televised sports, women who are not interested in beauty regimes have more time to do interesting things, right?

It is such a relief, my friend told me on the phone, as neither of us had been leaving the house during the lockdown, to not have to wash your hair, or put on makeup. I agreed. To not have an appearance is so relaxing! To appear is mostly to be conscious of appearing. And oftentimes you aren’t even aware that you are appearing at all, until someone interrupts your peaceful and pleasant obliviousness by making you appear, just to point out that you appear differently, or badly, or not how they would prefer you to appear.

This is what many of us experience as Americans (though I am sure it is near universal), and, reading Jaswinder Bolina’s collection of essays, Of Color, it is this rude jolt into another’s conception of us, their questioning of you, and their implicit judgement that is so exhausting, debilitating and wrong. The endless justifications required. The endless appearing. Why are the black kids sitting together in the cafeteria? indeed. Sometimes you just want to relieve yourself of the burden of thinking about your race, and eat your Salisbury steak with those people. As delineated in Bolina’s essay, “Writing like a White Guy.”

I’m guessing more white people are reading books like this, given where we are as a culture, how 2020 went, George Floyd. Most books about race should be read by white people, more so than those who are designated red, yellow, brown and black, who live it and can only nod in recognition. But the white folks? They–we!– might be surprised, learn something new. Like, I wish every book on feminism was read by men. Even ONLY men. How will change happen if men are not on board? So this is one of those books, that I often suspect are read mostly by the POC, nodding.

Bolina is mostly known as a poet, and it was in this context he was accused of “writing like a white guy”, that is, not adding any “Indian” color to his poems. Not representing. Not appearing, as it were, as he was being subtly or not so subtly pressured to appear. You don’t know how relaxing it is to not appear, like white people don’t appear, until you’ve had a chance to be seen-with-expectations.

12 Jun 23:38

And here it is. A lovely glance into the history of Nopa and a...

Metagrrrl

Laurence and the whole Nopa family really have created something extraordinary. Great people, great restaurant and bar.



And here it is. A lovely glance into the history of Nopa and a day in the life of Laurence courtesy of The Bold Italic and the Werehaus. 

28 May 16:27

A Recipe Book for Dyestuffs

by randallk
Metagrrrl

What an incredible treasure for textile designers.

Kimberly Randall
Dyer's record book, 1820–early 1830s, Museum purchase through gift of Jaques Séligmann, 1950-99-1

In the Textiles collection is a wonderful example of a dyer’s record book for printed textiles. The book has special significance as it was the personal property of Edmund Barnes, a textile dyer and printer from northern England. Barnes was working at an unspecified print works, probably in the early 1820s, when he began recording his dye recipes. The inside cover has an inscription: “Blackford Bridge near Bury,” which is near Manchester, England – an area known for its leading role in the development and mass manufacture of printed textiles in the nineteenth century.

Page from Edmund Barnes' record book showing swatches and notes.

Study of Barnes’ book reveals that at some point in late 1820s, Barnes left England for New Hampshire where he was employed by the Dover Manufacturing Company to teach American apprentices the practice of “steam printing,” a process used to produce colorfast fabric. His first entry there is “Dover Nov 18th 1829," and he continued to add recipes and swatches until the early 1830s. “Providence” is inscribed on the inside back cover of the book, and research shows that Barnes left New Hampshire for Rhode Island as another of his record books is in the Museum at the Rhode Island School of Design.

Barnes worked in the textile industry in the period before the development of synthetic dyes. Cotton could be resistant to the many forms of dyestuffs that readily dyed fibers like silk and wool. Barnes’ book contains dye recipes for cotton that include typical ingredients like cochineal, madder and logwood. Other substances used were alum, dung, lignin, pipe clay, olive oprussiate of potassium, and chromate of potash. Some of these ingredients are metallic salts or mordants traditionally used in applying dyestuffs to cotton. Mordants act on dye molecules by breaking their existing chemical bonds so they will form new bonds with the cotton fabric. The dyer's record book provides a fascinating glimpse into the chemistry and manufacture of early nineteenth century textiles.

Museum Number: 
1950-99-1
28 May 16:26

Hard to Connect With

by Maggeh
Metagrrrl

Love!

The post Hard to Connect With appeared first on Mighty Girl.

28 May 16:19

Basic Chemistry

by condellc
Metagrrrl

Very cool concept, made even better by the look of the finished print.

Caitlin Condell
Poster: Oil and Water Do Not Mix, 2010. Designed by Anthony Burrill. Published by Happiness Brussels. Gift of Anthony Burrill. 2012-13-1.

Years ago, I was out sick the week that my fellow high school students studied the periodic table.  I’ve always blamed missing that foundational moment of scientific education for my very poor mastery of some basic chemistry.  But there are certain concepts that I have had the opportunity to learn through personal experience.  Every day when I try to make salad dressing, I am confronted with one of them—oil and water just won’t mix.

Tragically, we were all reminded of the dire consequences of this aspect of chemical polarity three years ago, when the Deepwater Horizon oil spill released millions of barrels of oil into the Gulf of Mexico.  In the fall of 2010, as the hard work of the cleanup began, Tom Galle and Cecilia Azcarate Isturiz, the creative team at the innovative communications agency Happiness Brussels, approached the British graphic designer Anthony Burrill.  Isturiz and Galle wanted to create a project that would raise money for the restoration efforts.  Together they devised the idea of producing a benefit poster that would be printed with oil from the spill.  Burrill, whose work often features witty yet commonplace slogans set in bold types and bright colors, was intrigued by the proposal, and felt drawn to the opportunity to produce something positive out of the devastating disaster. 

Burrill completed his design within days.  Galle and Isturiz then flew to Louisiana, armed with buckets to capture the oil that had leeched into the sandy beaches of the coastline.  But when they arrived, they discovered that the entire beach had been cordoned off.  Undeterred, the pair decided to stick around, and when the BP security personnel left for lunch, they slipped past the barriers and quickly filled their buckets with the crude saturated sand. 

The team brought the oil to Purple Monkey Design, a commercial print shop based in New Orleans. The printers mixed the oil and sand with extender base, which allowed the oil-turned-ink to pass smoothly through a screen that had been stenciled with Burrill’s design.  When the oil was pushed through the screen with a squeegee onto the paper, it produced a shimmering, golden color that gave radiance to Burrill’s eloquent design of the straightforward idiom, which transformed into a slogan of protest and a grave warning: “OIL & WATER DO NOT MIX.” 

The posters were sold through a website, with all proceeds benefiting the Coalition to Restore Coastal Louisiana (CRCL).  Happiness Brussels produced a short film about the making of the posters, which you can watch below.

OIL & WATER DO NOT MIX from Happiness Brussels on Vimeo.

This poster is part of the exhibition Graphic Design: Now in Production, co-organized by Cooper-Hewitt, National Design Museum and Walker Art Center.  The exhibition will be traveling to the Contemporary Arts Museum in Houston, Texas, opening this July.  You can find the exhibition catalogue at shop.cooperhewitt.org

Museum Number: 
2012-13-1
16 Apr 06:00

I Wish I Had Been There!!

by bromane
Elizabeth Broman Grand Palais Aeronautic and Automotive exhibitions 1909 and 1938 Décors éphémères: les expositions jeux d'eau et de lumière. by André Granet . Paris: 1948. Smithsonian Libraries.  fTK4148.F8G73 1948.  In 1909, Granet initiated the 1st exhibition of aerial locomotion at the Grand Palais des Champs –Élysées, which was built for the Exposition Universelle of 1900, and became a venue for future exhibitions and fairs.  (l:) Balloons, planes and blimps in the 1909 Grand Palais Aeronautical exhibition, 1909.   (r:) The 1938 Grand Palais Automotive exhibition.  

Between 1909 and 1948, the Grand Palais near the Champs-Elysées in Paris featured  remarkable decorative interiors which housed automotive, aeronautical and many other types of trade shows. For the buildings and other structures of the Paris Colonial Exposition of 1931, decorative lighting helped create a unity among the diverse architectures. The splendor of these temporary sets was a direct expression of a gloriously progressive Paris married with the work of the French architect André Granet (1881-1974).The mastermind behind many of these temporary installations was the French architect André Granét (1881-1974). In 1948, Granet's work was documented in a large-format book, which has long been out of print and is now available again here as a stunning facsimile reprint. In 1948, he documented this work in Decors, part of the Special Collections of the Cooper-Hewitt Library.

The preface states thatThanks to the advent of modern technology, new mediums have replaced [them} in the creation of quest for beauty and artistic expression. There is no better example of this than the recent innovation of Art de la Lumière, inspired by scientific discoveries in the field of technical lighting…. the development of incandescent lamps, electric arcs, mercury vapor arcs, tubes illuminated by neon and other rare gasses.”

Pont de l'eau and Totems, illuminared fouintains from the Colonial Exposition 1931 Paris

(l:) The Pont d'Eau,  a bridge composed entirely of water –was made by jets of water from water from a lake. This was the first fountain made entirely of water. (r:)  The illuminated fountain Totem, Paris Colonial Exposition of 1931.

The Cactus illuminated fountain, Paris Colonial Exposition, 1930

 The Colonial Exposition was one of the most extraordinary spectacles ever conceived.  Built in the Bois de Vincennes, it brought  together the wonders of the unique architecture of very  diverse civilizations.  Lighting devices were placed throughout the Exhibition to harmonize with the surrounding architecture. Granet designed many  illuminated fountains for the Exhibition, which were mirrored in the lakes they were built on. The exhibition opened in the spring of 1931, among the trees and flowers for a most surreal assemblage of palaces.

In the foreword to Decors, Granet explains that “What follows are reproductions of lighting, fountains and fireworks (designs involving the interplay  of light and water) … It goes without saying that no matter how much care was put into choosing the photographs, these (2-dimensional ) reproductions could never really accurately capture works which depend on movement, color and all kinds of reflections. I can only hope that the reader will be able to use his imagination to complete the picture. “-A.G.

The transient nature of these spectacles for temporary exhibitions lends to the excitement and a sense of enjoying art and light in the here and now, but at the same time, it the experience of these fantastic sigths can only live in the memories of those who were there to see it.  Luckily, we have the photographs in this book to show what no one will ever see again. Wow! I wish I could have been there! Elizabeth Broman

 

 

Tags:  lighting André Granet Smithsonian Libraries Décors Éphémères fountains fireworks lighting exhibitions Grand Palais lumière Colonial Exposition of 1931 Collection Record:  http://siris-libraries.si.edu/ipac20/ipac.jsp?index=BC&term=39088011251717