
I hate it when transplants from California piously proclaim that there's no such thing as a good taco in Gotham. What it usually means is that they haven't taken the trouble to investigate the wildly expanding Mexican food scene here, perhaps just by stepping on a train to Corona, Sunset Park, Stapleton, or East Harlem, or visiting one of the taco trucks that seem to park on every corner once night falls. Indeed, we even have establishments that serve a decent semblance of San Diego, Los Angeles, and San Francisco tacos.
Ever since southern Mexican immigrants started pouring into town almost 30 years ago, we've seen a multiplication of taco styles, a gradual broadening of our taco vistas — partly sparked by the immigrants, partly due to a ramping up of Mexican food popularity nationwide. One bellwether was when salsa surpassed ketchup as our national condiment a few years back, and another arrived with the popular ascendance of Taco Bell, Chipotle, and similar chains, making burritos and other food invented decades ago in Texas and California by Mexican immigrants available in every corner of the country.
But the taco remains the sine quo non of South of the Border eats, and Gosh! does New York have plenty. Most parts of town, you can't walk a block in any direction without encountering tacos sold by a cart, market stall, grocery, taqueria, snack shop, or restaurant where name chefs study how to mutate this hand-held treat in creative ways. Here is a stab at classifying all the types currently available in New York, with an example of each.

1. Pueblan Double-Tortilla Taco — This is our taco default: two silky white-corn tortillas heated on a plancha and folded over meat or poultry fillings, simply garnished with chopped onions and cilantro. Some places have adopted the more Mexican-American habit of substituting lettuce and tomatoes. Available from carts and taquerias in dozens of neighborhoods; shown here are a pair from the El Idolo truck that parks every evening on the border of Chelsea and Greenwich Village. Corner 8th Ave and West 14th St.

2. Pueblan Single-Tortilla Taco — Rolled into a cylinder or cone and wrapped in tissue paper — and sometimes sporting a bonus wad of guacamole — tacos sometimes go low-carb with a single white-corn tortilla, as in this duo from El Jarochito: carne enchilada on the left, carnitas on the right. With traditional accompaniments. 195 Neptune Ave, Brooklyn, 718-769-4447.

3. Hard Shell Tacos — Even though the shells are available in every supermarket, few restaurants above the chain level make this type of taco in New York, seemingly unknown to southern Mexican immigrants and maybe a Mexican-American invention. Old-timer El Cantinero still offers them exclusively, loaded with seasoned ground beef, the way they do it in Texas. 86 University Pl, 212-255-9378.

4. Tacos Arabes — Conventionally filled with pork al pastor cut from one of those gyro contraptions, tacos arabes – introduced by Iraqi immigrants to the city of Puebla 100 years ago — are wrapped in a flour tortilla descended from the pita. Shown here is the version found at Bella Puebla. In the absence of yogurt, crema is used as a dressing, and there may be a chile or two knocking around in there, too. 94-11 Roosevelt Ave, Jackson Heights, Queens, 718-639-7300.

5. Tacos Placeros — These "market tacos" possibly originated in the state of Morelos, and came to the city via a Jackson Heights cart a few years ago. They're often cheaply stuffed, sans meat, with things like yellow rice, boiled eggs, freshly fried chiles relleno, and even french fries. Here's the one from Tacos Morelos, a Mexican gastropub descended from the cart that first introduced them on Roosevelt Ave. 94-13 37th Ave, Jackson Heights, Queens, 347-832-0193.

6. Tacos Dorados — Originating in southern Mexico, this taco involves folding or rolling a white-corn tortilla around a standard filling, then deep-frying it. A verdant collection of vegetable material is then tossed on top and dressed with squirted crema, as seen in this La Cabana version. 2277 1st Ave, 212-860-5555.

7. Flour Tortilla Tacos — In Texas, tacos traditionally come on full-size flour tortillas, but here we have few examples of that style. The most famous is found at Fresco Tortilla Grill and its many descendants, founded 15 years ago by a Chinese family from Mexico City — who reportedly brought a tortilla-making machine with them. 36 Lexington Ave, 212-475-7380.

8. Mini Tacos — Like Los Angeles, New York prizes its diminutive tacos, but ours are generally made from tortillas fabricated from fine white masa, rather than the more rustic coarse yellow masa favored on the West Coast. At Casa Enrique, a pair of small white-corn tortillas are stuffed with homemade chorizo by chef Cosme Aguilar, who hails from the state of Chiapas. 5-48 49th Ave, Long Island City, Queens, 347-448-6040.

9. Los Angeles Mini Tacos — One of the most typical L.A. tacos is made on a single or double yellow mini corn tortilla. In the example shown here, juicy chunks of pork al pastor are topped with pineapple. This trio of tacos comes from Florencia 13, a haunt aimed at homesick Angelinos, named after an East L.A. street gang. 185 Sullivan St, 212-677-6830.

10. Los Angeles Mini Tacos With Homemade Tortillas — Using a mini yellow corn tortilla made seconds before on a small gleaming machine that commands your attention at this small taqueria is the genius of Otto's Tacos. Fillings include a shrimp taco in the style of Baja and the mushroom taco shown here. 141 2nd Ave, 646-678-4018.

11. Chef's Mini Tacos (Stupak) — When New York chefs started exploring tacos a few years back, they naturally gravitated toward the smallest format due to the fact that you could feature a lower proportion of carbs, and sell them for proportionally more money. Using small homemade flour tortillas, Alex Stupak of Empellon Taqueria fills his with a variety of invented fillings, including the one shown here, pastrami with pickled mustard seeds, for a very New York-y adaptation of the taco. 230 W 4th St, 212-367-0999.

12. Chef's Mini Tacos (Bowien) — San Francisco transplant Danny Bowien paid extra attention to the mini corn tortillas made from Anson Mills kernels that underlie his invented tacos at Mission Cantina. He also experimented with vegetarian taco fillings including the sweet potato shown here. 172 Orchard St, 212-254-2233

13. San Diego Rolled Tacos — Here they might be called flautas, but in San Diego, California they're known as rolled tacos, or sometimes taquitos, and constitute one of the principal gastro-attractions. Taquitoria carries the banner aloft, offering only rolled tacos in that style, filled with sustainably sourced beef, chicken, pork, or black beans, and topped with sour cream, Whiz-like cheese, and jalapenos; or queso seco, lettuce, and guac. 168 Ludlow St, 212-780-0121.

14. San Diego Mini Tacos — Stuffed with spice-rubbed pork adobada, Los Tacos No.1's tacos come on small corn tortillas (left) or small flour tortillas (right), garnished with cilantro, raw onion, a dairy-guac mixture, and chile sauce, with a bonus stick of pineapple on top. Chelsea Market, 75 9th Ave, 212-256-0343

15. Taco Loco — The taco loco was invented at the local mini-chain San Loco, and the concept was eventually knocked off by Taco Bell. Here's how it goes down: a hard-shell taco with a standard Tex-Mex ground beef filling is rubbed on the outside with refried beans, which act as an adhesive to glue a wobbly flour tortilla onto the outside. Genius, isn't it? 111 Stanton St, 212-253-7580

16. Breakfast Tacos — This specialty of Austin, Texas has sporadically appeared in various forms around town. Latest is at Choza in the Gotham West Market. Even though they're served on small corn tortillas rather than the prototypical large flour ones, they qualify. 600 11th Ave, 212-582-7940.

17. Doritos Tacos – Like it or not, the nationwide chain Taco Bell is in the vanguard of taco invention, as seen in their Dorito taco, which has a hard shell manufactured of the same adamantine material as Nacho Cheese Doritos, flavored with a volatile powder that leaves a bright red coloration on the tips of your fingers. Filled with processed cheese, seasoned ground beef, and shredded iceberg, the taste is not half bad. Any Taco Bell Outlet.

18. Fish Tacos — Originating in Mexico's Baja peninsula and sold from beach cabanas, these tacos featuring battered and fried fish filets caused a sensation in New York a few years back. The one served at Dorado is typical of the genre, dressed with shredded cabbage and crema, or even mayo. 28 E 12th St, 212-627-0900.

19. San Antonio Puffy Tacos – The puffy taco, a specialty of San Antonio, Texas, was once offered at Goat Town on Monday nights, via chef Julie Farias, an Alamo City native. Now both the special Texas Mexican evening and the restaurant are defunct. Somebody, for Pete's sake bring back the puffy taco!

20. Gringas — A gringa, female for "gringo," consists of a pair of flour tortillas placed on either side of a common taco filling – cabeza wouldn't go there, but pollo, carnitas, and, especially, al pastor (shown at Sembrado) are fair game. Note that a gringa is not much different than a small-size American bar-style quesadilla. 432 E 13th St, 212-729-4206.

21. Flour Tortilla BBQ Tacos — This Mex-Tex hybrid features barbecue — in this case, smoked brisket — on flour tortillas, and has become a staple of Lone Star barbecues such as Chisolm Trail in Lockhart. Mexicue Kitchen & Bar does a decent version, with smoky shredded brisket. 1440 Broadway, 212-302-0385.

22. Corn Tortilla BBQ Tacos — At Tres Carnes, the tortillas are the white-corn variety made at numerous tortilla factories in Brooklyn, and the cubed brisket has been smoked 16 hours. 688 6th Ave, 212-989-8737.

23. San Francisco Tacos — At Dos Toros, the tacos come with a piece of white American cheese annealed to the inside of the corn tortilla. Aside from meat (in this case carne asada) and salsa, the only other stuffing is the optional guacamole. 137 4th Ave, 212-677-7300.

24. Korean Tacos – Korean tacos were a fusion invention that appeared about five years ago, mainly sold from trucks like Korilla, Yogi, and Mogo. Some of the earliest were offered at the Pako Taco stall in the Hester Street Market, filled with beef bulgogi, kimchi, and spicy mayo. The idea may have originated in L.A.
And here's a map: