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The First American Road Trip
t started, as many good stories do, with a bet.
It was May of 1903, and Horatio Nelson Jackson was having drinks at the University Club in San Francisco. The talk that evening naturally centered around current events — President Theodore Roosevelt, whether or not the Boston Pilgrims would win the pennant, and the emergence of a new-fangled machine that had just begun to make its way onto the streets of major American cities: the automobile.
“The majority opinion,” Jackson later wrote, “was that save for short distances, the automobile was an unreliable novelty, a passing mechanical fancy which thinking men could do no other than discard, as the horse continued to demonstrate his proper place as the dependable servant of mankind for travel.”
The 31-year-old Jackson had an adventurous streak — he’d recently visited Mexico and Alaska and already had two automobiles to his name. He was learning how to drive them in California before he shipped them back home to Vermont and his waiting wife, Bertha. She was the funds behind the operation, her family fortune more than supported the two of them since Jackson gave up his medical practice three years earlier after contracting tuberculosis.
So when someone wagered him $50 (ed. around $1300 in the early 1900s, by inflation) that a journey across the country in this newfangled “rich man’s toy” could never be completed, Jackson jumped on it. He had money. He had time. So four days later, Jackson set out. And the first American road trip was born.
At this time, the automobile was as new and innovative as Tesla is today — but without the culture and infrastructure of an entire country behind it to justify its worth. In 1903, there were only 150 miles of paved roads in the entire United States, and most of them were within major city limits, leaving vast chunks of the country unconnected. There were no gas stations and there were no detailed maps, especially when it came to driving routes. Cars were noisy, dangerous, and expensive — costing up to $6,000 at a time when the average American was bringing in about an eighth of that annually.
When we think of the road trip today, we think of Jack Kerouac, of Easy Rider, of playlists and gas station beef jerky and Instagramming sunsets from I-80. No such things were going to happen as Jackson prepared for his journey.
In Vermont, a law had been enacted that required every automobile to be preceded down the street by an adult waving a red flag. In Tennessee, drivers had to give a week’s notice before heading out on a trip. By the end of the 1800s, there were only eight thousand cars in the United States and 14 million horses; in 1903, the total car registration in the country was at 33,000. Jackson was pitting himself against a vast majority of people who assumed that this automobile was going nowhere fast — much less 3,000 miles from coast to coast.
In preparation for his trip, Jackson hired a mechanic, Sewall Crocker, a 22-year-old cyclist from Washington, to ride with him and keep the car running. For their vehicle, the two settled on a 1903 Winton, manufactured in Cleveland, Ohio and bought from a San Francisco Wells Fargo executive who overcharged the duo by $500 from the vehicle's $2,500 list price.
The Winton could go up to 30 miles per hour. It had no windshield, no top, and the steering wheel was on the right. It could hold eleven gallons of gas in its tank, sufficient to drive 175 miles — which, hopefully, would take Jackson to the next small-town general store, since gas stations didn’t emerge until 1905 and there was nowhere else to fuel up once their spare tank ran dry. They removed the back seat and piled their equipment and luggage onto the vehicle, which Jackson dubbed 'the Vermont.'
Four days after the wager was made, Jackson and Crocker took the ferry from San Francisco to Oakland and set out on their journey east. Jackson had enthusiastically planned on going 200 miles per day, but the reality of the situation soon sunk in, as the duo were beset with delays, including breakdowns, running out of gas, backtracking from poor directions, and flooded and snowed-in roads. The car was crawling along. At one point, a cowboy's horse had to pull them to civilization when the car got too clogged with desert dust and wouldn’t start.
The bright spot? In Idaho, Jackson added a third member to their party — Bud the bulldog, purchased for $15, and described by Jackson as “the one member of our trio who used no profanity on the entire trip.”
In every town they passed through, locals gawked at the new machine rattling around and newspapers printed headlines marking the occasion of “the first live auto” rolling through town. The farther they went, the more public interest grew. And then it skyrocketed when, on June 20, two more men set out from San Francisco, intent on beating Jackson and his dog to New York.
If Jackson and the Vermont were David, the new challengers would be Goliath — hand-picked by the Packard Motor Company to drive one of the companies newest, sleekly-outfitted, mountain-ready cars from San Francisco to New York as a savvy marketing scheme. Packard had been planning this trip for three months, and it showed in their progress — 10 days into the trip, they had already made it halfway across Nevada (ed. a trip that now takes around 10 hours). Jackson and the Vermont, on the other hand, had been forced to travel hundreds of miles north to circumvent the entire state when the Winton couldn’t handle the choking desert sandsand. But when halfway through Wyoming, they caught wind that their journey had turned into a race, Jackson remained optimistic.
But after 42 days on the road — almost half of the 90 he’d bet on — Jackson was only a third of the way to New York. Shortly after July 4th, the Packard car, despite having left a month after Jackson, was only 10 days behind them on the road. And on July 6, yet another car set out from San Francisco, this time backed by Oldsmobile. The stakes were even higher — these men carried a letter from the mayor of San Francisco to the mayor of New York, and were each promised $1,000 bonuses if they delivered it. Things were looking grim.
But as Jackson crawled east, the roads were getting better. Gone were the alkali deserts and the uncharted, sage-filled landscapes. They were getting incredible amounts of rain, yes, but on one landmark day in Nebraska the Vermont was able to cover 256 miles. And it seemed the long, wide middle stretch of the United States was finally getting the better of the Packard and Oldsmobile expeditions — the duos were plagued by breakdowns, bad weather, and the sheer height of the Rockies.
By the time the Vermont had made it to Chicago, the nationwide exuberance for these “continent-trotters” spurred the Winton Company into action. When Jackson arrived in Omaha, a Winton representative was waiting for him and offered Jackson the same financial backing and equipment as the Packard and Oldsmobile trips had. Jackson refused. They’d made it this far on their own, Jackson said. Why not try their hands at the rest of it?
Cleveland to New York was the final leg of their journey. And — despite the one and only true crash of the entire trip — it went incredibly smoothly. At 4:30 am on July 26, Jackson and the Vermont crossed the Harlem River into Manhattan, officially rolling into the history books as the first men to drive an automobile across the United States. All it took was 63 days, 12 hours, and 30 minutes; 20 pounds off Jackson’s frame; and $8,000 dollars of his own money to win a $50 bet that he would never see through to collect.
In 1903, the Trans-Siberian Railroad was completed. Roosevelt telegraphed the first message sent around the world. A man drove the first motorcycle across the country, bumping along the railroad tracks heading east. The Wright Brothers flew their plane across the beaches of Kitty Hawk, NC. And with much thanks to Jackson, there began to be a push for better nationwide roads — byways that would ultimately let people travel when and where they wanted.
In 1904, an automobile drove across the continent in half the time it took Jackson. In 1905, that time was cut in half again. In 1913, the Lincoln Highway was the first road to connect the east and the west, and in 1916, a car charged along its length in five days.
These days, Interstate 80 stretches for almost 3,000 miles from California to New Jersey. If you were to drive an average speed of 70 miles per hour along I-80 — hardly an outlandish thing to imagine these days — it would take you less than 42 hours to drive from coast to coast. Even rounding up to three days, that's one-thirtieth the time Jackson was bet he couldn't make it in. How the times have changed. [H]
Liv Combe has yet to drive from San Francisco to New York, but it's on her list.
She's an Editor at Huckberry in San Francisco.
Follow her on Twitter and Instagram.
Images © Alex Souza
Images taken of Horatio's Drive: The First American Road Trip
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(Third column, 4th story, link)
What’s in My Bag? – Heron
I work in the subalpine regions of Washington state studying high elevation amphibians. My work schedule is usually 5 days on in the backcountry, 2 days off in town to resupply and catch up on email.
On any given work trip into the backcountry I’ll walk up to 20 miles per day, visit up to 50 wetlands, and carry 10 extra pounds of research gear. Over the past several years the amount of research gear that I’m required to carry has increased, driving down the weight and number of other things in my backpack.
Here’s what’s in my bag:
Bag/Backpack:
Hyperlite Mountain Gear 3400 Porter Pack, $310 - It fits me well and its weight is reasonable at 33 oz. It’s waterproof and white so you can see the down inside.
Sleeping items:
A homemade down quilt, comparable to Nunatak Arc Specialist, $479.
A homemade shelter, comparable to Mountain Laurel Designs Grace Tarp, $120 and Serenity Shelter, $145.
Thermarest Neo-Air Small, $110 - I have had a few small holes in it over four years, but they were patched easily with Gorilla Tape.
MSR Groundhog Stakes, $16 for 6
Cooking items:
Evernew 1.3 L Titanium pot, $60 - I’ve met folks who have used this pot for 20 years. Just be sure to get the version which is NOT non-stick. The plain titanium will last much longer.
Vargo Titanium Spork, $12 - Short enough tines to not loose all your liquid when used as a spoon.
Super Cat Stove, Free or $2 - The lightest stove on earth. Make your own at home in five minutes.
Denatured alcohol for the stove in an old soda bottle.
Stuffsack for food, $10
LiteTrail NyloBarrier Odor Proof Bag, $5 for 3 - Food goes in here, then in the stuff sack, which prevents rodents and bears from being too interested in my pack.
Aquamira Bottle, $20 with Sawyer Mini filter, $17 - The most convenient way I’ve found to filter water in the backcountry. Get the Sawyer filter though, the one that comes with the bottle is awful.
Clothing items:
Arc’teryx Phase SL T-shirt, $46 - Not all polyfiber shirts are created equal. This is one of the only ones I’ve ever used which actually moves sweat away from my skin.
Gramicci Men’s Rocket Dry G Pants, $36 - Simple, light, quick-drying pants. No gimmicks.
Darn Tough Socks 1/4 Ultralight, $13 - This company will replace your socks when you wear holes in them.
Ibex Hooded Indie Wool Shirt, $80
Patagonia Capilene 3 Long Undies, $55
Feathered Friends Daybreak Jacket, $240
Arc’teryx Squamish Hoody, $150 - This windbreaker is my favorite clothing item. I wear it for sun and bug protection. When working with amphibians, we do not use sunscreen or bug repellent and instead must cover up our skin. I wear this, long pants, and a head-net for bug and sun protection.
Headnet, $15 - You can probably find this cheaper off-line.
Small items
Leica 10×25 BCA Binoculars, $500 - The lightest, quality binoculars I have found.
Suunto Core Watch, $233 - Combine this with a topo map for dead simple navigation.
Belomo Triplet Loupe, $35 - The best-quality cheap loupe.
Rite-in-Rain Notebook, $8 - We use larger versions of these for work. Personal notes go in this one.
Zebralight 52W Headlamp, $64
Platypus 2L Soft Bottle, $10 - I try to never carry more than .75 L of water, but when I need to, I use this.
Aquamira Chlorine Dioxide Drops, $13 - A backup to my water filter, repackaged in smaller drip bottles.
Whistle, $1
Suunto M-3 Compass, $25 - Adjustable declination is my guilty pleasure.
Bic Lighter $1
Leatherman Squirt PS4, $30
Kiss My Face Sunscreen, $7 - Used occasionally on my nose.
Canon S100 Camera, $400 - I have had three of these. It’s my favorite camera. The most current version is the S120.
Skilcraft Pencil, $27 for 6 - My favorite pencil. It’s very hard to find though. The steel lead sleeve fully retracts into pencil body to avoid breaking the tip or punching holes in your clothes/pack/body.
Skilcraft Ballpoint Pen, $13 for 12
Maps printed from CalTopo.com, Free - A free alternative to topo map software. No account necessary. The advanced features are there if you need them but don’t get in the way.
-- Heron
[Cool Tools Readers! We will pay you $100 if we run your "What's in My Bag" story. Send photos of the things in your bag (and of the bag itself, if you love it), along with a description of the items and why they are useful. Make sure the photos are large (1200 pixels wide, at least) and clear. Use a free file sharing service to upload the photos, and email the text to editor@cool-tools.org. -- Mark Frauenfelder]
How to Taste (and Fall in Love With) Raw Honey
Good raw honey is practically a different product from the "Grade A Amber" plastic bears that line supermarket shelves. Bursting with caramel or butterscotch; fragrant with citrus, minerals, or the intoxicating aromas peonies and jasmine; jammy with berries and currants and dried fruit—that's the kind of honey worth relishing. Here's how to get the most out of it. Read More
US woman sends man in Africa she has never met almost £1 million because they are 'in love'
An American woman who has sent a man in Africa who she has never met almost £1 million says she is “95 per cent certain” that their relationship is not a scam.
Fitness Travel Guide
From our brothers over at Myles Apparel, who are offering up fresh perspectives on fitness.
ccording to legend, Medieval knights would travel from near and far for the final feast of the Christmas season to recommit themselves to another year of honor and chivalry. The rite consisted of each knight reciting Les Voeux du paon (The Vows of the Peacock) while placing his hands on a roasted bird, which was then divided evenly among the group and eaten. Great party, right?
Chances are your New Year’s Resolution was a tad less ceremonious. Chances are even better that your vows had something to do with improving your health. And if you’re like over 90 percent of resolutioners, chances are you’ll come up short of your goal. Here’s a fun way to swing the odds back in your favor: Put your money and calendar where your mouth is by booking some fitness travel this year. Pick a city you’ve always wanted to visit, and it most likely hosts a race or obstacle course event that provides the perfect excuse to go there this year. Devote some vacation time to your goals and you’ll be motivated in the months leading up to the race to stick to your training regiment. And unlike a gym membership, entry fees and plane tickets can’t easily be cancelled.
The cost to sign up usually increases closer to the event date, so January is the perfect time to save some money while laying out your plan for the year. While you’re at it, invest in some workout gear you’ve had your eye on, then put it to use training for your vacation. Here are some events to check out in the first half of 2015, along with recommendations of what to eat, drink and do while you’re in town.
Fight For Air Climb
CHICAGO, IL - SUNDAY, MARCH 8
Chicago is not a city for the faint of heart, especially before April, and definitely not at this event where participants will race up the 45 floors of one, two, three, or all four of the Presidential Towers. Fight For Air Climbs are a series of events hosted in skyscrapers around the country that raise money to benefit the American Lung Association. Sign up and start making friends with a flight in your area.
While you’re there:
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Restaurant: The Publican - This Anthony Bourdain favorite is an homage to beer, pork, and oysters set in a European-style beer hall.
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Coffee Shop: Star Lounge Coffee Bar - West Side shop run by Dark Matter Coffee
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Store: Haberdash - With three locations in the city, this shop is the best source for cool, classic style in Chicago.
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Bar: Ezra’s - Not really a bar but one of the best small-batch booze shops in the country. If it can’t be found anywhere else, you can find it here.
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Site: Chicago Lakefront Trail - A 20 mile jogging and cycling path hugging the shore of Lake Michigan runs through Lincoln Park, Grant Park, Burnham Park, and Jacksons Park, and links several attractions including the Museum of Science and Industry, Soldier Field, and Navy Pier.
Salado Smokin Spokes
SALADO, TX - SATURDAY, MARCH 28
Spend the weekend in Austin and head 50 miles north to ride in this scenic cycling race through the Texas countryside, where the weather is perfect for a long ride this time of year. The event offers routes ranging from 15 to 102 miles over rolling hills around Stillhouse Hollow Lake.
While you’re there:
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Restaurant: Lamberts - One of the best barbecue joints in one of the best barbecue cities out there. The lounge upstairs features live music nightly.
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Coffee Shop: Wright Bros. Brew & Brew - Wake up or wind down at the full espresso bar with 38 beers on tap.
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Store: STAG - Offers everything a modern gentleman needs, from fashion to accessories to antiques to artwork.
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Bar: Mohawk - This venue features three bars and two stages and hosts some of the best shows in a city known for live music.
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Site: Hamilton Pool Preserve - The natural pool with a waterfall curtain was created when the dome of an underground river collapsed thousands of years ago, making for one of the most beautiful swimming holes of all time.
Epic Race
SAN DIEGO, CA - SATURDAY, APRIL 11
The Epic Series is a functional fitness take on the endurance obstacle course craze. The course is made up of at least 12 CrossFit and Strong Man inspired challenges, such as kettle bell swings, pull-ups, and tractor pulls. Between each challenge competitors carry a cumbersome object around a track. If that sounds brutal, it is, but at least in San Diego you’ll know the weather won’t present any additional challenges.
While you’re there:
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Restaurant: Cucina Urbana - Italian kitchen and wine shop with a California twist.
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Coffee Shop: Little Italy Coffee Bar - Serving up Bird Rock Coffee, a local farm-to-cup roaster.
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Store: Aloha Sunday - Finely tailored men’s style inspired by the island life.
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Bar: El Dorado - A rare craft cocktail bar that doesn’t take itself too seriously, it offers a generous happy hour of $5 signature drinks until 9 p.m.
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Site: USS Midway Museum - There are five decommissioned aircraft carriers in the country that host tours. This is the one that most recently saw combat.
The Original Mud Run
NASHVILLE, TN - SATURDAY, MAY 2
We’re firm believers that fitness should be fun and nothing makes you feel like a kid again like running, jumping, and climbing through an obstacle course in the mud. There are 10K and 5K courses and heats for various fitness levels, including one for you and the one exercise partner who never let’s you skip a workout—your dog.
While you’re there:
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Restaurant: Husk - Focused on gourmet southern food and hospitality where chefs serve the food directly to diners.
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Coffee Shop: fido - Great breakfasts, signature lattes, and industrial art adorning the brick walls
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Store: Hatch Show Print - You can lose hours searching through this shop's collections of iconic and contemporary music prints and posters.
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Bar: Holland House Bar & Refuge - Proprietary cocktails poured with house-made ingredients.
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Site: The Johnny Cash Museum - More intimate than the Country Music Hall, this museum has many of Mr. Cash’s personal items on display and the walls are even made out of stone from his home.
Force of Nature Mind Body Challenge
PHILADELPHIA, PA - SATURDAY, JUNE 6
Force of Nature is surf and fitness icon Laird Hamilton’s recently launched obstacle racing series that aims to test participants’ limits through natural challenges such as heat and snow. Each course includes 20-plus obstacles spread out over an eight to 10 mile course that are designed to challenge athletes minds as much as their bodies.
While you're there:
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Restaurant: Serpico - World-class dining from chef Peter Serpico with a comfortable atmosphere that feels like your favorite neighborhood restaurant.
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Coffee Shop: Burlap and Bean - Espresso bar with local baked goods and a cozy atmosphere.
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Store: Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction - If you can walk past a spirits and clothing shop with a name like this, then we don’t know what to tell you.
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Bar: Franklin Mortgage & Investment Company - An unpretentious speakeasy that GQ called the best place to drink in Philly.
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Site: Philadelphia Museum of Art - Cross “Run Up The Rocky Steps” off your bucket list on your way to the exhibits.
The Dipsea Race
MARIN COUNTY, CA — SUNDAY, JUNE 14
Established in 1905, the Dipsea Race is the oldest trail running event in the United States and one of the oldest footraces of any kind. It takes place a short trip across the Golden Gate Bridge from San Francisco on a challenging 12-kilometer course that winds through the redwoods of Muir Woods National Forest to Stinson Beach.
While you’re in town:
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Restaurant: NOPA - High-quality Californian cuisine and creative cocktails in a lively open, two-story building in the heart of San Francisco. Make your reservations now.
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Coffee Shop: Sightglass - Independently owned coffee roasted and served in a huge industrial building.
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Store: Mission Bicycle - Order a custom urban ride hand built in San Francisco. Also offers rentals for those visitors ready to take on the city’s many hills.
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Bar: Bergerac - Laid back cocktail bar inspired by the mansion where the Rolling Stones recorded “Exile on Main Street.”
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Site: Point Bonita Lighthouse - The lighthouse first guided ships to the San Francisco Bay in 1877 and is still active today. It’s accessible via a hike through the Marin Headlands and a suspension footbridge leading to the building.
Images ©: 1. Myles Apparel | New Orleans: Jacques-Imo’s; Cafe Beignet; Vegas; The Avenue Pub; The National WWII Musuem; | Phoenix: Angels Trumpet Ale House; Camelback Mountain; Bunky Boutique; Altitude Coffee Lab; Citizen Public House; USA Today | Chicago: Willis Tower; The Publican; Star Lounge Coffee Bar; Haberdash; Ezra’s; Chicago Lakefront Trail | Austin: Lamberts; Wright Bros. Brew & Brew; STAG; Mohawk; Hamilton Pool Preserve; | San Diego: Epic Series; Chicano Urbana; Little Italy Coffee Bar; Aloha Sunday; El Dorado; USS Midway; | Nashville: Mud Run; Husk; fido; Hatch Show Print; Holland House Bar & Refuge; The Johnny Cash Museum/ Philadelphia: Force of Nature; Serpico; Burlap & Bean; Franklin Mortgage & investment Company; Philadelphia Museum of Art; Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction | San Francisco; Dipsea; NOPA; Sightglass; Mission Bikes; Bergerac; Point Bonita Lighthouse
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Wood: Theories from the Rodeo barbecue pits - Houston Chronicle
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Art in a Cow Pasture
Spending a week in Madison, Georgia was a gem of history and enjoyment. My time was filled with touring old southern homes, historic museums, and an art museum situated in the middle of a cow pasture in Buckhead, GA.
Steffen Thomas, was a talented artist in many mediums, well know around the world for his mosaic and sculpture, as well as for his “hat ladies” in paint.
Born in Germany and spending most of his life in Atlanta, Georgia he apprenticed as a young teen with a stonecutter, he was gifted and well taught as an artist and a poet!
I have had a postcard of one his painting since I was teen, and little did I know I would visit the town where his daughter lives and the museum of his work is housed. Was captivated by his mosaic sailboat kitchen table that has short legs and sits low to the ground, and the cat sculpture rendered as a celebration of the family cat named “Peter” there were works based on all the family cats -and yes they all had the same name…Peter the first, Peter the second…
His work and his lifestyle was touched by the expressionist notions. Often his work can be compared to Picasso and some to seem touched and drafted with the same hands but then others stands on its own in strengthen of talent. It is a great little gem off a little highway in the middle of a cow pasture!
