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29 Sep 19:15

Fifteen years after abandoning a proud tradition, we are pleased...



Fifteen years after abandoning a proud tradition, we are pleased to see that Apple will once again produce a beige computer. Too much sparkle, though.

29 Sep 19:13

Sackers Gothic



Sackers Gothic

22 Sep 22:20

strugglingtobeheard: “Ok so this is my post. Sex workers who do sex work by choice do exist. Sex...

strugglingtobeheard:

“Ok so this is my post. Sex workers who do sex work by choice do exist. Sex workers who enjoy their jobs do exist. Sex workers who feel empowered by their jobs are out there and exist. But do not speak as if they are the norm and they speak for all us current and former sex workers. As a Black genderfluid person who has done sex work to survive rather than live in complete poverty and in circumstances I did not want to live in, that was my choice. But it was a choice that was funneled through my gender, my race, my status as a felon, my status as someone without a lot of financial capital, my status as a queer person. The options available for Black and brown girls to do their dream jobs, to never sacrifice their pride, to never do jobs they do not want to do are few and far between. Sex work is sometimes an avenue that provides us revenue or a way to survive. It is not always our top choice. But like many Black and brown women do regularly, we swallow our pride to feed ourselves, our family, our loved ones, pay bills, whatever. Capitalism and white supremacy and patriarchy are disgusting. Anti-blackness is disgusting. These things place beautiful human beings in positions where they have to do things to make money and to survive they don’t always want to do. But that doesn’t make us less. Just because you would rather clean toilets or work at McDonalds or write or sell photos or whatever rather than fuck or dance or massage or whatever other sex work some of us might do to survive DOES NOT MAKE YOU BETTER THAN US. you made your choice based on the limited choices you have. sex work isn’t inherently dirty or bad. treating women like objects are. murdering women (trans* and cis) for being involved with sex work is wrong. treating us like we are less than you because we have sex or do other sexual activities is wrong. men who think they can get our services for free are wrong. locking us up is wrong. If you want to ask about sex work and you aren’t in the field, make that clear. If you want to learn from us, you better make sure that’s what you want. And at the end of the day, sex workers of various backgrounds have various opinions and views. I do not speak for all sex workers. No one sex worker does. Someone who is a Black trans* woman and doing full service sex work in DC might have a bunch of different things to say on the topic than I as a Black perceived women but genderfluid middle class chunky stripper/service via the strip club industry sex worker. Regardless tho, we are humans. We are worthy. We are beautiful. We are hustlers. We are survivors. And none of you non sex workers are better than us. None of us. Respect our words and respect our boundaries and when you don’t, you are worse than a lot of people who already treat us like garbage just for being us.”

D. Strugg

quoting myself because i can. don’t even be fucking w/ sex workers, former and current. just don’t. 

(via strugglingtobeheard)

I’m a sex worker and I approve this message.

(via pervertsofcolor)

same

(via chatmaudit)

I always appreciate the input and/or backup of fellow sex workers or former sex workers. Thank you.

(via strugglingtobeheard)

22 Sep 22:15

37thstate: Rural Fashion: Cattle Rearers in Tsaragi, Kwara...









37thstate:

Rural Fashion: Cattle Rearers in Tsaragi, Kwara State, Nigeria

22 Sep 22:00

Moschino

Johan Palme

This is pretty ridiculous/amazing. :D

The Moschino invitation arrived with a T-shirt emblazoned with the legend FOR FASHION VICTIMS ONLY. Years ago, Franco Moschino himself printed the same message on a straitjacket he showed in one of his collections for men. And, starting with the baby photos in the video that preceded the actual show, "years ago" was on people's minds tonight with the thirtieth anniversary of the label that still bears Moschino's name nearly two decades after his death. Alberta Ferretti helped Moschino set up his business in the first place, and from her front-row perch, she insisted, "I want to say thank you to Franco a thousand times." Catwalk legends Pat Cleveland, Violetta, Amalia, and Gisele (the original, pre-Bündchen one) modeled iconic pieces from the archives. And Gloria Gaynor showed up to croak Franco's favorite song, "I Am What I Am."

That T-shirt sentiment pretty much summed up Franco's contentious relationship with the fashion industry. Keeper of the flame Rossella Jardini has done a remarkable job of carrying on his legacy while smoothing off her mentor's ironic, abrasive edges. Bill Shapiro, Jardini's lieutenant for twenty years, defined the label ethos before the anniversary presentation tonight: "Let's move forward." If the body of the show offered a good/bad duality—two outfits for the price of one catwalk moment—it was kind of kitten cartoony. Brassy belts broadcast GOOD GIRL or BAD GIRL so you knew exactly where you were at any given moment. Franco's claws would have been more lacerating.

Nevertheless, what was on offer was a pretty effective edit of the label's ongoing strengths. Clothes for every occasion—with enough of a twist to make them seem like "fashion" and not some generic interp of the same. Still, the highlights were those archive pieces that ring now with a quite surreal strength: Erin O'Connor wore a jacket with golden spoons for buttons. Princess Caroline of Monaco had that jacket. As Lou Reed spat so memorably, "Those were different times." And Alek Wek modeled the iconic sequined question-mark sheath. Franco's question was this: What is fashion? Decades later, are we any closer to knowing?
—Tim Blanks
20 Sep 18:28

After Decades of Dominance, Prada Still Makes the Weirdest Clothes

by Alex Frank

It would seem to be some necessary rule of capitalism that as one of the top luxury brands in the world, Prada, which is worth somewhere in the neighborhood of $15.5 billion, would have to tone it down somewhere along the way—get more boring to please investors, settle into the comfort of high profits and handbags and careful designs. Not Miuccia! Yesterday, as part of Milan Fashion Week, Prada and its 64-year-old namesake designer Miuccia sent down one of their weirdest collections ever, with heavily bejeweled bras on top of dresses, fur coats splattered with women’s faces and illustrations of sunrises (for spring, no less!), a luxe take on Tevas, leg warmer athletic socks, feathered headdresses and a color palette that looked like a crayon box. None of those pieces should work together; actually, none of those pieces should work alone. But while she could easily coast on a sea of brand recognition and high heels, Miuccia is interested in the unexpected combinations that are truly new. And because she does them so expertly, with so much thought and intelligence, the ugly becomes appealing.

In his review of the collection, Tim Blanks writes that Miuccia was inspired by feminism, Riot Grrrl, girl gangs, tribalism, political street art and Britney Spears. That all these elements are so, so different is exactly the point. So many other designers settle into cliches about the “woman”—sex goddess! downtown It girl! uptown socialite!—but Prada knows that actual lives are complicated, and no woman could possibly be summed up in a single stereotype. Riot Grrrl is as alive in the culture as Britney Spears is, and that’s okay. That’s the truth of how life in this world actually is, full of contradictions. Let’s call it fashion realism. Critics are saying, moreover, that featuring faces on the garments is a comment on the over-objectification of women’s images on billboards and magazine ads. Miuccia is a former activist member of the Communist Worker’s Party, after all, which all sounds radical until you quickly remember that Prada, as a major luxury company, is more guilty of using objectification to sell products than almost anyone else. But maybe that’s just another aspect of the ball of contradictions that Prada has come to represent. “I saw them as strong, visible fighters,” she told Vogue, speaking of the women who would be wearing her clothes. “We need to be fighters in general. There is this debate about women again, and I want to interpret it. My instrument is fashion.” But her quote hides the whole story, a bit: sure, her ladies are fighters, but maybe there’s weakness in there, too. Prada can be bad and good, moral and immoral, ugly and beautiful, at the very same time, just like us. In fact, it’s the contrasts that Prada refuses to shy away from that makes her brand, and fashion in general, a much weirder, more honest place.

(via Style.com)

20 Sep 00:01

Neutral colour

His character has nothing to do with his skin colour and therefore I decided to make him white; this should not bring up the impression that white people are more valuable than black people, it is quite the contrary – the reason for this is that white is a neutral colour.

19 Sep 21:33

Prada Spring 2014 Re

Johan Palme

Prada is Prada

Prada Spring 2014 Ready-to-Wear Collection Slideshow on Style.com

19 Sep 19:36

Just Cavalli

Bhutan was on the inspiration itinerary last season at Just Cavalli. For Spring, the label took a trip to the tropics with a stopover in London's punk enclaves. But as they say, it's the journey, not the destination. Wherever Roberto Cavalli goes, digital prints, animal spots, trussed-up denim, and handkerchief-hem slipdresses follow. All of that and then some made an appearance on the runway today. This was Just Cavalli at its most hedonistic, starting with the first look: a stretch catsuit with a plunge in front that dipped precariously south of the navel. There were more prints in that one look than in other designers' whole collections. Another thing this show had plenty of: cutout dresses, cropped sweaters, and bra tops. All those bared midriffs gave Cavalli ample room to show off one of his neatest tricks: skin-tight pants that unzipped at the side and folded over to reveal a contrasting inner waistband. They conjured images of surfer girls peeling off their wetsuits as they emerge from the waves. This collection is really, really going to speak to the Miley Cyrus generation. Their parents, on the other hand, are going to need a Xanax.
—Nicole Phelps
19 Sep 18:22

gossipgran:  

19 Sep 10:35

Music styles that, like hip-hop, are connected to some kind of grass roots, are fluid, with...

Music styles that, like hip-hop, are connected to some kind of grass roots, are fluid, with constant incremental changes building into epochal ones. When they move from their base audience, it’s often because a particular conjuncture of sounds resonates with a new crowd. But here is where a kind of misrecognition occurs: for the neophytes, the style is this one way, frozen in time. The give and take between music makers and their core followings, the push and pull, ebb and flow that built disco, hip-hop, house, reggaeton, and so on, is interrupted by listeners who in their enthusiasm don’t always understand the history or sociology of their genres. They don’t have to: when music becomes a commodity, it can travel worldwide, as all commodities do, severed from any knowledge of the conditions of its production. Genres cease to be grassroots social worlds, and instead become something more like brands: mere sonic surfaces rather than deep historical processes.

When a genre develops a signature sound, it’s ripe for the plucking by interlopers. Instead of having any real connection to the communities that develop musical styles through the dialectical movement between music makers and their core audiences, an outside producer just has to have a decent set of ears and a computer, and can start cranking out reasonable facsimiles, like factories in China churning out fake Coach purses indistinguishable to everyone but connoisseurs. Even if you can tell the difference, the functional parts are close enough. Today’s Chinese pirate manufacturers pride themselves on their quality goods, just as today’s kings of musical appropriation do.

18 Sep 18:31

misterjt: Jen Sorensen (via azspot)

16 Sep 15:42

Artifact Restitution and the Silken Gag of Co-operation

by Johan Palme
Johan Palme

Selfshare

It was so successful it had to be hunted down, packed up and sent out again. The travelling exhibition Dynasty and Divinity: Ife Art in Ancient Nigeria (tiresomely renamed “African Masterpieces” — but that’s another story) has come to Stockholm after it was already disassembled and back in Nigeria, having successfully toured nearly a dozen cities across Europe and the United States. It has by all accounts been a rip-roaring success of Nigerian (and Yoruba) nationalist PR, with journalists ladling on the justified hyperbole (“an exceptional exhibition … artworks that rank with the Terracotta Army, the Parthenon or the mask of Tutankhamun as treasures of the human spirit”) — made possible through close economic and social co-operation between some of the biggest, most powerful historical museums in the former colonizing powers and the National Commission for Museums and Monuments in Nigeria. The latter owns the artifacts in the exhibit, packaged it, co-selected and co-organised it, and sends two officials to participate and learn throughout each exhibition period. The co-operation is to its significant benefit.

And yet — the shadows of the flames still flicker.

On February 18th, 1897, the British army perpetuated one of the greatest premeditated crimes against the world’s cultural heritage, well comparable to the burning of the library in Alexandria. In a pre-planned move, an army unit entered Ife’s huge successor city-state Benin and utterly destroyed it, wrenching its artworks off the walls and piling them as scrap, systematically burning down each palace in turn before reducing the king’s palace to rubble. Of the largest pre-colonial walled city in West Africa remained a burnt-out husk, and thousands of invaluable artworks were irrevocably lost. Others, some 2500 objects in total, were sold and now form a crucial part of the collections of African artworks at every European museum. All of the institutions involved here (including the Swedish Museums of World Culture) have, directly and indirectly, benefited enormously from the looting of 1897.

It is no wonder, then, that the exhibition has received significant criticism from inside Nigeria. How can the Nigerian government be willing to lend treasured objects to an institution that, just a few hundred meters away, still keeps the shameful products of colonialism’s crimes? The answer, from the government perspective, is quite sensible in some ways: it’s working, but silently.

“We’re using this exhibit to share Nigeria’s past with the rest of the world, modifying Nigeria’s image,” Yusuf Abdallah Usman, Director General of the National Commission for Museums and Monuments, told me at the press showing. “For institutions, we’re showing that even if the artifacts were returned, we’re still able to lend them out, they can still come back, they’re not disappearing inside Nigeria forever.” And they’re working quietly behind the scenes, co-operating, trying to find common ground: “We’re talking among our colleagues, holding a series of meetings. It may not be earth-shattering, but dialogue is really the only way that works in these matters. I firmly believe that one day, all the artifacts will be returned to Nigeria.”

The Nigerian government is using the co-operation built up during exhibits like this in order to try to get the desired results.

Fair enough.

But goodwill is a fragile hope indeed, and to an extent the co-operation is a two-edged sword: push too forcefully, and the exposure, the profitable exhibits and the training exchanges are going to disappear. Considering the power structures that prevail in the post-colonial world, perhaps this lucrative self-gagging is indeed the best use of a limited freedom of action for now, but will it really have the desired effect in the long term? It may be that the former colonial powers have too much of their conceptual position invested in the idea that they have the right to retain these objects. As art historian Jonathan Harris writes with respect to the British (p. 275, quoted in the article above):

To return [the Benin artefacts] would imply the belief, on the part of the British authorities, that the peoples of those parts of the world were now capable of competently looking after artefacts … Their return would also imply admission of their illegal possession by the British. Both implications remain largely unthinkable because post-imperial racism continues to be a highly significant aspect of British foreign policy.

* The exhibition Afrikanska Mästerverk (African Masterpieces) is shown in the Skeppsholmen Caverns in Stockholm until February 2014.

16 Sep 02:30

Temperley London

Johan Palme

Very consistent, only one or two duds in a collection both varied and tightly held together. One of my fave shows overall this season so far.

Once upon a time (about a decade ago), expats newly arrived in London (like yours truly) quickly learned that the place to shop was Temperley London in W11. Alice Temperley was the cool girl's designer because that is exactly what she was herself: the pinup for cool. Shoppers flocked to her Notting Hill outpost for a bit of tea and comfort in the form of thick knits and cozy gypsy looks—clothes that telegraphed the English rose, après-hunt thing, even on non-English-rose types. It was a lifestyle, not just a sweater. But now, with her new Spring collection, all that has changed—or, more accurately, it's been revved up.

These days, Temperley is casting her net out to a wider international clientele. Some of it may have to do with dressing the Duchess of Cambridge, and by doing so, helping to put Kate (never mind herself) on this year's Vanity Fair International Best-Dressed List. Indeed, her appeal has a borderless following. On a recent visit to Doha, Qatar, we saw women go mental in her store (there's really no other way to describe it), while neighboring shops stayed empty. The appointment of Ulrik Garde Due, formerly of Georg Jensen, Burberry, and Céline, to CEO is part of a strategic plan to grow the brand.

Temperley's Spring collection, inspired by a holiday in Sicily, should go a long way toward doing the same, without alienating her fans. Key pieces included trapeze shapes and a new way to deliver a bolero jacket, with sleeves that were structured and flowy at the same time. But, as always, it was the surface details—the rose damask fabrics, the complete symmetry of the embroidered flowers on organza, the crystal embellishments, and the cherry-blossom prints—that seduced. Temperley has such a sure hand, she even made a leopard print mixed with a lilac floral look good. Her challenge going forward will be maintaining this momentum.
—Afsun Qureshi
15 Sep 22:34

Mary Katrantzou

Johan Palme

Hahaha, the giant shoes!!!

You could while away the minutes till Mary's show started today by playing Count the Katrantzou in her audience: All ages, all shapes, all sizes were wearing clothes from past collections. That spells success, but it also highlighted the challenge Mary Katrantzou faces with each new season. The niche she has carved for herself narrows as the novelty of her extraordinary work with prints fades. It's a terrible truth in fashion that the gasp of wonder is inevitably replaced by the shrug of familiarity. There were plenty of those as the audience streamed out today, which was a shame because Katrantzou had, on the whole, done herself proud with a collection based on…ahem…shoes. Well, they are fashion's favorite fetish, and as the show notes pointed out, they've always been a fairy-tale favorite, too—glass slippers, red shoes, tokens of magic and mystery.

Katrantzou offered shoes three ways: the laces, eyelets, and perforations of polished brogues blown up to make lush abstracts; the high-tech artifice of sport shoes molding the body instead of the foot; the sugary embellishment of a delicate evening slipper spun into rococo fantasias. The placement of the prints was, as usual, immaculate. The way huge shoelaces curved around a thigh, for instance, or the rubberized sole of a sneaker arched around a torso had an erotic charge. The shapes Katrantzou chose to highlight these effects were perfectly appropriate, too. One innovation was a pliant micro-pleated cocoon suspended from a strap across the chest—an item packed with high-performance bounce.

So far, so focused. But then came the evening looks: baby dolls exaggerated with ruffles, florals exaggerated with embroidery, everything choking on decoration. Katrantzou has been working with the legendary Maison Lesage in Paris. It's clearly an opportunity that has thrilled her to the bone, but it's maybe been too much of a good thing. There was even something slightly sinister about the overwrought edge. Perhaps that was her deliberate nod to the eldritch power of the shoe, the receptacle of so much human desire, elevated and base. Because it was clear from the Katrantzou-clad clan today that desire is something Mary knows what to do with.
—Tim Blanks
15 Sep 09:13

Duro Olowu

Johan Palme

It's not as good as F/W13, but once the capes appear I'm sold.

Duro Olowu thinks big. But he can also think small. Olowu's latest collection found him exploring volume, with an emphasis on dramatic, variously patchworked or embellished cape coats and jackets. Much as you'd expect, these pieces had force. But the real charm of this collection was its easygoing spirit, and that derived from the less oracular looks—the ones that compelled you via subtle gestures. A case in point was Olowu's camisoles: As he explained, he set himself the task this season of making the perfect cami—one not too bare, or too short, or too long, that could be worn layered or on its own, and that had a bias-cut fit that just brushed the body. Well…job done. Elsewhere, Olowu scored with his double-hem print dresses, and with pieces in a seventies-style check, and with peasantlike cotton skirts and frocks detailed with contrasting Austrian lace. There was a kind of bohemian looseness here, minus any overt homage to the stereotypically "bohemian." Olowu is too deep a thinker for that; he knows what it is to be iconoclastic.
—Maya Singer
15 Sep 04:07

Ashish

Johan Palme

I CAN'T THANK LONDON ENOUGH for bringing back some sanity to the fashion world, in the form of ripped-apart Thai Coca-Cola Vikings.

We've finally found something that Ashish Gupta likes more than sequins, and that is Coca-Cola: Its slogan was seen over and over again, emblazoned in sequins (of course) in his show today. Ashish's narrative was one that many will relate to, about a party girl who, after a particularly late night, rolls out of bed, throws a sweatshirt over the party dress she passed out in the night before, and nips out to the corner shop for that ultimate hangover remedy: Coca-Cola.

Ashish had his girl pegged, down to the mismatched socks, messy hair, and grocery-shop bag festooned with sequins. The story was also about the internationality of the shop owners: They are Indian, Arabic, African. Said Ashish: "My local corner shop is owned by Arabs, and I love seeing everyday products like beans stacked next to exotic products like figs, where the packaging has this wonderful lettering that looks like calligraphy." That explains looks like this show's gray sweatshirt suiting, and caftanlike robes with Arabic characters spelling out "Thanks for coming," "Joy," or "Love." It also explained the abundance of African and Indian chunky jewelry—never mind the regal crowns that might've belonged to a Viking. "It was all a celebration of everything international and what a great multicultural city we live in," Gupta explained.

Looks to note included loose denim trousers in rainbow sequins and a dress that crossed zebra and leopard prints. Ashish has a bona fide groupie base of fashion students who stand for hours to get into his show, and the cheers and hoopla can reinvigorate even the most cynical critic. But now that he's nailed the whole sequin/pop culture/underground-cool thing, we wish he would turn his eye more to shape and structure. When that happens, who knows how high his star could rise.
—Afsun Qureshi
14 Sep 21:21

Julien Macdonald

Johan Palme

And this Lace Borg thing. Did anything at NYFW even begin to be this interesting?

Now, let's get this out of the way up front: Strictly Come Dancing—it's what you know in America as Dancing With the Stars. And it is one of those bizarre British formats we have gifted to the world. Don't thank us all at once. Julien Macdonald is one of the stars of the TV show this season, and he was dashing from the gilded confines of the City of London's Goldsmiths' Hall, where his fashion show was today, to the not-so-gilded BBC TV studios to dance for the viewing public this evening. That's about eight million people and quite a big deal in Britain. And quite a tall order for the established designer and new-to-ballroom dancer Macdonald. "I'm not that good a dancer. And people seemed to think I would be," he declared after the show, his fashion show that is.

So what were we to expect on his catwalk today—clothes to rumba and cha-cha-cha in? A take on the Argentinean tango by way of the Blackpool Tower Ballroom? No, those hopes were quite dashed. "I'd already started my collection by the time I knew about Strictly," said Macdonald, who'd previously been an occasional "glambassador," commenting on fashions for the program. "I did decide I needed more crystals last night, and I sat sewing them on at my kitchen table—underneath my Tom Dixon glitter balls. You can't have enough glitter!" And, actually, when it comes to a Julien Macdonald collection, you can't really. You have to embrace it.

Today's offering erred on the side of something a little more sedate—but that really is not sedate at all by any normal human standards. "I went to Morocco and I fell in love with the place again," he said, "the avant-garde, glamorous nightlife of the past; the exotic gardens and the colors in them." In a palette of pales plus silvers and golds there was something a little more ethereal and restrained going on. But ethereal and restrained are not Macdonald's strong suits, and when he let loose with his more baroque looks—an oddly Metropolis-reminiscent body, a crystal-encrusted catsuit, or the scrolling motifs of the first and the second-to-last looks, the latter with an introduction of a hint of darker blue—you could tell the designer felt more at home. At home gluing crystals under the mirror balls in his kitchen, no doubt. There was also the darker passage of black wool knits, as always intricately constructed and finely done. "This is my job," he added firmly at the end. "My priority is fashion; that's my business, and I have found it difficult juggling the rest. I finished dancing earlier than I was meant to this week. I had to put Dorothy back in the box."
—Jo-Ann Furniss
14 Sep 09:28

Marc Jacobs

Johan Palme

I'm not sure I like it, really, but at least it's doing something during what's proving to be one of the dullest new York Fashion Weeks ever. (Click the title, not the picture, for the slideshow.)

All of New York fashion week we've been talking about the 1990s and hearing about clean minimalism. And then along came Marc Jacobs tonight, polishing things off with a fabulously irreverent show that took us on a trip to the 1890s. The set looked like a bombed-out beach, with cigarette butts, Big Gulp cups, a tumbled-over Frozen Treats case, and destroyed fashion magazines strewn in the black sand. A giant Adirondack chair, the mast of a wooden ship, and a bus on its way to Black Hollow numbered among the bigger props. Giant fans in the corners seemed to be blowing hot air on the audience. The handheld fans that ushers handed out on the way in were hardly a match for the stifling temperature inside the venue.

Were we shipwrecked? In some sort of post-global-warming desert wasteland? Neither, said Jacobs backstage afterward, rattling off a few random talking points: "It's more of a weird frat party, Burning Man, shores-of-Gotham City sort of beach scene. It's a lovely nightmare, or it was for me anyway." And this, more interestingly: "I didn't want the cliché of Spring and Summer, I wanted it to be about girls who have no problem coming to work in a Victorian gown and Birkenstocks." (For the record, Jacobs' sandals this season owe more of a debt to Tevas than Birks.) Rejecting the received wisdom of other runways, he went on, "I don't have one friend who dresses in all white."

Zing! Take that, New York. Jacobs' clothes, in contrast to the prevailing Spring currents, were printed, appliquéd, embroidered, and tasseled. And dark. There were large hibiscus prints in red and white on a coat and maroon and white on a shirt and shorts set, but black, navy, bottle green, and brown were the dominant colors here.

Even a bellwether like Jacobs might have a hard time getting twenty-first-century gals into the passementerie-laden sailor's jackets that he started with. Blame the out-to-there shoulders, not the cute hip-slung shorts that accompanied them. But his printed and embroidered dresses were another story entirely. Cut like exalted sports jerseys and worn like they were no big deal with wrestler's boots, they had an unprecious cool—exactly the kind of thing an It girl like Sky Ferreira, who made a surprise cameo on the runway, might wear for a stroll through the Lower East Side. Widow's weeds dresses marched by on flats, too. It was hard not to love this show's attitude. Georgia May Jagger sported a sweatshirt embroidered in red and white with the wave on a Coke can. Just what Jacobs' point was we don't know, but he's the real thing—out in front of the rest of the town without hardly breaking a sweat.
—Nicole Phelps
14 Sep 09:19

K-tel Presents DIFFICULT-TO-STRIP-TO-HITS Vol.1 written with...

Johan Palme

Oh dear. Especially the last one. :o



K-tel Presents DIFFICULT-TO-STRIP-TO-HITS Vol.1 written with @DJRotaryRachel

11 Sep 15:11

37thstate: Duro Olowu Fall/Winter 2013/2014 (pt. 1) Striking...



















37thstate:

Duro Olowu Fall/Winter 2013/2014 (pt. 1)

Striking prints and patterns, arresting colours and classic silhouettes! YES!

10 Sep 22:58

NYFW Trend Report: Floor Patterns

by Marissa G. Muller
Johan Palme

Hooray for weird Trompe d'oeil!

Lim-

FADER NYFW, Spring 2014

The writing was on the wall when See By Chloé sent out their fall 2012 collection in front of a marble backdrop. A year later, Alexander Wang would transform the luxe tile into the focal textile of his debut fall 2013 collection for Balenciaga to rave reviews. Other designers clearly took note and put their own spin on the pattern this NYFW. Phillip Lim, pictured above, showed angular vests in marbleized woodgrain. Robert Rodriguez added dimension to the flat fabric with a dark, sculptural tiered dress. Creatures of the Wind went in another direction, using a lighter pattern for a breezy, flounced skirt. Nicholas K’s interpretation had a ghostly quality with a washed out, gauzy pantsuit. And Rachel Comey and Peter Som chose marble patterns reminiscent of lava lamps that make for covetable sweatshirts. Some designers took the floor even effect further, showing screen-printed wood patterns. Honor’s take was more literal than Zimmerman’s but both transformed the grainy floorboard into stellar cocktail hour dresses.

Peter Som

Robert Rodriguez

Creatures of The Wind

Rachel Comey

Zimmerman

Honor

10 Sep 02:46

Carolina Herrera

Johan Palme

One of the best shows of NY Fashion Week so far. I like the repeating auroraesque pattern.

The Carolina Herrera woman has always been a classy, cosmopolitan character. Backstage after her show, the designer said that her Spring femme was active and international, stopping in France one day and South America the next. This spirit shone through in some of the collection's more youthful, sporty wares, like an embellished black dress with meshlike tulle detailing and a boxy, ivory suede frock with strict-but-subtle sheer insets.

Spring '14, however, was decidedly evening-centric in comparison to recent Herrera outings. While there were about a dozen fluid gowns sent down the catwalk this morning, the designer offered only a handful of trousers and focused more on ladylike cocktail frocks and swooshing floor-length dresses than daytime separates. Perhaps this had something to do with her inspiration. While dreaming up her Spring prints and silhouettes, Herrera referenced kinetic art, specifically the work of Venezuelan artists Carlos Cruz-Diez and Jesús Rafael Soto. She translated the movement's graphic lines into geo-prints, which appeared in chocolate, citrus, and plum on skirts and gowns as well as on their organza overlays. As they swished down the catwalk, Herrera's layered lines produced mesmerizing optical illusions. "When you layer the fabrics like this, it becomes an entire visual experience," she said. No doubt, it would be tricky to achieve the same effect with classic suiting or separates.

That's not to say Herrera's loyal customers won't have before-dark options for Spring. A series of viscose-blend day dresses were soft, energetic, and easy. And a glamorous black and white bikini covered with wafting organza (and topped with a very Audrey-esque sun hat) seemed to cater to Herrera's newer devotees, such as Christina Ricci, Michelle Dockery, and Christina Hendricks, who sat in the front row. Only, it would've been nice to see more attention paid to the chic sportswear that's been so integral to the Herrera brand.
—Katharine K. Zarrella
09 Sep 07:26

Tracy Reese

Johan Palme

Very interesting collection! Only a bare minimum of duds and lots of great ideas.

Tracy Reese typically works the sweet angle, but this season she headed in a more sensual direction with a vibrant collection infused with Afro-Cuban influences (three standing drummers accompanying the mambo-filled soundtrack drove home the show's theme). "It's about just really being able to bring your personality to the clothes," Reese said backstage. Curve-hugging white lace trumpet skirts and dresses with flouncy flamenco-inspired hemlines illustrated the designer's new, sultrier side, as did a tropical silk cocktail number with an appliquéd tulle overlay that had definite cha-cha-cha appeal. Reese mixed these romantic pieces with more athletic ones like bomber jackets, on-trend crop tops, and long board shorts done in a graphic windowpane check. She showed plenty of signature fit-and-flare frocks (to give Michelle Obama maximum options to choose from) in hibiscus florals, a charming tapestry print, and a techy laser-cut neoprene, which gave the flattering A-line silhouette a nice structure. Meanwhile, the closing look—a slinky piqué knit maxi skirt paired with a lace polo—felt fresh for evening.
—Brittany Adams
08 Sep 20:15

Bringing Fabrics to Life! Vlisco Launches 3rd Collection for 2013 – “Reflexion Optique”

by Jennifer Obiuwevbi
Johan Palme

OH YES

Posted on Saturday, September 7th, 2013 at 12:00 PM

By Jennifer Obiuwevbi

Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (15)It was a fabulous day for Vlisco as they launched their third collection for 2013 – Reflexion Optique.

Held at their chic head office in Ikeja, Lagos the beautiful collection was creativerly crafted to unveil the unseen sides for consumers with with fabulous opportunities for designing eclectic and out-of-the-box outfits.

The collection and campaign features a variance of colours, geometric patterns and playful optical illusions. According to the brand “the key concept behind this collection is that, any woman adorned in this collection of fabrics is able to reveal every side of her personality using motifs that can be tailored to suit any mood and creative disposition.”

View some photos from the launch and the Vlisco pieces in action as models strut the runway.

Check out the “Reflexion Optique” campaign photos for the collection below.

Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (1) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (2) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (3) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (4) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (5) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (6) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (7) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (8) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (9) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (10) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (11) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (12) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (13) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (14) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (15) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (16) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (17) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (18) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (19) Vlisco Reflexion Optique Collection Campaign - BellaNaija - September 2013 (20)

Photo Credit: Launch Photos: Iphy Photos

Tags: African fabrics, Africxan fashion, Iphy Photos, Lookbook, Reflexion Optique Collection, vlisco, Vlisco 2013 collection

Filed under: News & Features

08 Sep 19:33

The "Amen Break" and Golden Proportion

Johan Palme

Sound Studies!

The "Amen Break" and Golden Proportion:

A student recently asked if I had any insights into why the “Amen Break” is so popular in some modern music. “What’s that?” I had to admit that I hadn’t heard of it. But when we listened to it, a drum break beat, I recognized the rhythm right away. I’d heard it in television commercials and the music of James Brown, and elsewhere. You probably have too. I became intrigued when I saw an image of the audio waves themselves because I immediately recognized the Golden Ratio in the structure of its timing. And I was surprised to find an even deeper relationship to the structure of the human body.

08 Sep 17:40

there-were-giants: Snoop Dogg/Lion has been doing an AMA on...





















there-were-giants:

Snoop Dogg/Lion has been doing an AMA on Reddit and it’s kind of fucking adorable

07 Sep 10:10

'There's a Place for Gays in Islam'

by navigatethestream
Johan Palme

I'm working on getting this shown in Stockholm

'There's a Place for Gays in Islam':

JON FROSCHSEP 6 2013, 7:30 AM

 

 

 

AP / Domenico Stinellis

In an edition of the Venice Film Festival notable for the prevalence of works grappling with global and societal woes (unemployment, terrorismpollution,war) perhaps no film has blended the personal and the political as strikingly as Abdellah Taia’s L’Armée du salut (Salvation Army).

A promising directorial debut presented in the independent “Critics’ Week” category on Wednesday, the movie is adapted from Taia’s autobiographical novel about growing up gay in Morocco.


Today, the 40-year-old Taia is the only openly homosexual Moroccan writer-filmmaker. He is based in Paris, where he moved in 2000 to pursue a graduate degree in 18th century French literature.

Salvation Army observes the adolescent protagonist’s sexual awakening, as he meets with men in shadowy alleys and empty lots, careful not to be discovered in a country where homosexuality is a crime punishable by prison time.

The film’s final section finds Abdellah living in Switzerland 10 years later, free from the severe restrictions of Moroccan society, but nostalgic for his native land.

I sat down with Taia for an interview about his film, his life, and his views on homosexuality, Islam, Morocco and France. Here are some highlights.


Are you hoping that Salvation Army will be released in Morocco?

More than hoping—I really want it to be released in Morocco. Before shooting, I submitted the screenplay in its original form to the authorities at the National Centre for Moroccan Cinema. I didn’t cut anything. I didn’t want to sugarcoat things in order to get the green light to shoot. They approved the screenplay, and I hope they end up following through by allowing the film to be released.

I know a lot of people will be shocked when they see the film. But I don’t see anything shocking in it, because it portrays a reality. I’m not the only person to have lived this reality, nor am I the only one who sees it.

You’re known as a novelist, and this is your first film. What inspired you to make the movie?

Cinema has been an obsession of mine for a long time. Ever since my adolescence, I’ve had this dream [of making movies], which came from my love of Egyptian cinema. That was the only culture that we had access to in Morocco, as a poor family. Egyptian films were the only ones on Moroccan television. They taught us a lot about love, about society, about ourselves. And as a homosexual, they pretty much saved me, because they allowed me to escape to this whole other world.

And there’s now an Arabic word for “homosexual” that is not disrespectful: “mithy.” It was created just six years ago, and is now used everywhere.

There are also films and filmmakers that inspired me, but that I didn’t discover until I was an adult: Satyajit Ray’s The Apu Trilogy; the work of Rainer Werner Fassbinder, for its dark romanticism, its taste for melodrama, its critique of World War II-era Germany and its subversive, but tender, portrait of homosexuality; and Michael Powell’s Black Narcissus, which directly influenced Salvation Army.

Tell me about what it’s like today for homosexuals in Morocco. Have things evolved at all?

The law still considers homosexuality a crime, and people are still are very harsh in their views of gays. So that has not changed.

On the other hand, the Moroccan press has dramatically changed its view on homosexuality—for example, they defend me. They also give gay people in Morocco the chance to express themselves. There are young gay Moroccans who created a gay magazine in Arabic. And there’s now an Arabic word for “homosexual” that is not disrespectful: “mithy.” It was created just six years ago, and is now used everywhere.

It’s the government that has not changed. It’s still impossible to come out of the closet in Morocco and anywhere in the Arab world. Morocco is actually ahead of other Arab countries when it comes to homosexuality, because at least the issue has been debated in the press.

At the end of the film, the protagonist seems nostalgic for Morocco (he’s living in Switzerland, but cries when he hears a Moroccan song). What are your feelings about Morocco today?

I definitely feel a connection to my homeland, and will for the rest of my life. I lived in Morocco for 25 years. I feel attached to the land there, the sky. Morocco is inside of me: its culture, its violence, its folklore.

At the same time, I am aware that in Morocco, I was prevented from becoming what I am today, from feeling free. And I see that people over there are still suffocating. But that doesn’t take away from the very strong emotions I still have for the country.

Paris is not heaven on earth, either; it’s tough like any other place. There are unhealthy power dynamics and manipulation. But there’s also extraordinary access to culture, even if you don’t have money. Moreover, Paris helps artists, even those who are not French, to pursue their projects and fight for them, despite the obstacles, the racism, the fact that we’re looked at as immigrants.

Are you a practicing Muslim?

I consider myself culturally Muslim. I feel connected to the great writers and thinkers of Islamic civilization, the great philosophers, sociologists and poets. I believe firmly in secularism, and I think that Muslims would be better off liberating themselves from religion. Islam should have no role in government.

I don’t want to deny my Muslim roots. I come from a place where people need to free themselves from religion. If I spent my time saying that those [religious Muslims] are bad, I’d be doing them a disservice. The best thing I can do for them is affirm and re-affirm the attachment I feel for them, while simultaneously being myself.

Is there a place for gays in today’s Islam?

Of course there’s a place for gays in Islam. The greatest Arab poet, Abu Nuwas, was gay. He wrote poems about his love for boys. So a place for gays in Islam exists. Those that want to deny that place are not going to win in the end. For me, that’s obvious.

A version of this post also appear on France 24, an Atlantic partner site.

 

07 Sep 10:00

Brazilian journalist says Cuban doctors arriving in Brazil look like “maids”

blackfoxx:

jcoleknowsbest:

For journalist Micheline Borges Cuban doctors look like "maids"

For journalist Micheline Borges Cuban doctors look like “maids”

BW of Brazil: Since the initiation of Brazil’s “Mais Médicos” program to increase the country’s number of doctors per resident rate, a tidal wave of controversy has exploded on the internet. The program touched off protests by the Brazilian medical establishment all over the country who took to the streets in several cities to express their outrage at the government’s latest experiment. While some sites have pointed out the politics involved in this program, other controversies have surrounded comments being made about the Cuban doctors themselves. The Cubans have been called “slaves” that need to “go back to Cuba” and one journalist took to her Facebook account questioning their skills and saying that they looked like maids. Really? Why? What is it about the appearance of these highly trained doctors that would make someone say they look like maids? Here are a few clues: 1) In Brazil, the slavery of Africans lasted for about 350 years. 2) A common saying in Brazil is “white woman for marriage, mulata for sex and black woman for work”, which leads to 3) Brazil has the largest number of maids in the world, which leads to 4) black women are the majority of maids in Brazil and 5) Until a very recent law, Brazilian maids worked in conditions that many say were analogous with slavery

Journalist says Cuban doctors look like ‘maids’

from G1 in Rio Grande do Norte

‘Are they really doctors?’ asked Micheline Borges on Facebook. After more than 5,000 shares, she deleted her account on the social network.

The declaration of a journalist from Rio Grande do Norte about the appearance of the Cuban doctors who came to Brazil to work in the “Programa Mais Médicos” (More Doctors program) sparked controversy in social networks on Tuesday (August 27). The journalist Micheline Borges published that the doctors have the face of “maids” and questions whether the women were really health professionals. “Are they really doctors?”, she contested. She deleted her account on the social network after the impact of the message, which generated more than five thousand shares until 4pm on that Tuesday.

Just a few of the Cuban doctors who have come to Brazil

Just a few of the Cuban doctors who have come to Brazil

“Forgive me if it was prejudice, but these Cuban doctors have the face of a maid. Are they really doctors? Afe, how terrible. Doctors usually have a posture, like a doctor, they impose themselves from their looks … Poor thing of our population. Do they understand dengue (1)? Febre amarela (Yellow fever)? God protect our people ! (sic)”, read the message posted in the morning.

At the G1 news site, the journalist apologized to those who were offended and said she had been misunderstood. “It was an unfortunate comment, I just want to apologize, I was very distressed. I received a very large proportion in social networks, where people interpret it the way they want. I have no prejudice against anyone, I did not want to hit anyone or hurt the image or the profession of anyone,” she said.

Suit

The director of the Sindicato das Empregadas Domésticas (Union of Domestic Employees) of Rio Grande do Norte, Israel Fernandes, said he will examine the possibility of going to court against the journalist. “This is absurd. In the 21st century a person still has that kind of thinking. I don’t think this girl is really a journalist. Racism, discrimination is a crime. I’m going to get together with the other members of the union to examine the possibility of going to court. She will respond to these crimes.”

Note from BW of Brazil: Of course there will be those who will argue that there was nothing actually racist about Borges’ comments as, after all, there are also white maids in Brazil. But here’s the point. White women are not stereotyped as maids. When people knock on doors of households in Brazil, people don’t automatically ask white women if the “lady of the house is home” or assume any black woman in a luxury apartment is a maid. White women are not overwhelmingly cast as maids on Brazilian television (2). And the last point, which is actually a question. If one puts two women in the same attire and asks the average Brazilian which woman works as a maid, which woman would they most likely point to? (3) Case closed!

Notes

1. Dengue fever, also known as breakbone fever, is an infectious tropical disease caused by the dengue virus. Symptoms include fever, headache, muscle and joint pains, and a characteristic skin rash that is similar to measles. In a small proportion of cases the disease develops into the life-threatening dengue hemorrhagic fever, resulting in bleeding, low levels of blood platelets and blood plasma leakage, or into dengue shock syndrome, where dangerously low blood pressure occurs. Source

2. Carmen Sívia Moraes Rial found in her research that black men and women only appeared in Brazilian commercials in the role of low paid employees, mostly as maids (drivers, gardeners, cooks). Source: “Racial and Ethnic Stereotypes in Brazilian Advertising e Manezinho: de ofensa a troféu.” Da Silva, da Rocha and dos Santos also point out that “The Brazilian discourse constructed, in the symbolic plane, a space of almost total subordination to the black women, in which the character-types are the domestic (or slave in narratives of the era) and the prostitute (with variations of voluptuous or hyper-sensual women). Source: “Negras (os) e brancas (os) em publicidades de jornais paranaenses” by Paulo Vinícius Baptista da Silva, Neli Gomes da Rocha e Wellington Oliveira dos Santos.

3. The subordinate position of black women in the social imagination was the focus of acampaign in the southern state of Rio Grande do Sul in 2010. This image is also at the center of discussions of the need to adapt policies to improve the image of black women.

you know what………

06 Sep 20:46

6-Trifluoromethyl-Phenanthridines through Radical Trifluoromethylation of Isonitriles

by Bo Zhang, Christian Mück-Lichtenfeld, Constantin Gabriel Daniliuc, Armido Studer
Johan Palme

Have you guys checked the trending section lately? Together with the webcomics and awful soft porn, there's lots of post like this. What's going on? What does this even mean?

Thumbnail image of graphical abstract

A radical approach toward 6-perfluoroalkylphenanthridines employs the Togni reagent or derivatives thereof as radical precursors and occurs in the absence of a transition metal. Bu4NI is applied as radical initiator and phenanthridines are formed in good to excellent yields. In contrast to the currently intensively investigated trifluoromethylation of arenes, the arene core is formed during the trifluoromethylation in this approach.