Jim Paull

You’re in the swing of things, flipping between pages of your textbook or work schedule, writing important things down, and getting tons of stuff done. Then, you reach for your stapler, but it’s not on your desk! Or could it be tucked behind your laptop screen? Did you take it to another room? You spend 5 full minutes scrounging for that lousy stapler and now you’re totally out of sync. We’ve all been there. A disorganized office can be a real nightmare when you’re trying to get things done. Luckily, there are plenty of ways to clean that busy desk up, rearrange your room, and add some storage space to get back on track and stay productive.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Cleaning Your Desk Up

1. Seperate things you use every day for work from everything else. Your computer, keyboard, mouse, and a pencil cup are all mandatory. If you don’t have overhead lighting, you need a lamp. Everything else is dependent upon what your work entails. If you have allergies, you could keep a box of tissues on your desk. If you tend to lose track of time, you may want to keep a clock nearby.^[1] Set aside anything you’ll use every day to keep it on your desk.
   
   • If you’re a student, you may want to keep a stack of index cards or a calculator on your desk.
   • Student or not it is very recommendable  to have a particular smell or aroma substances.Thi is because they stimulate the brain and as a student you can relate the smell with the text you are reading and you could remember it easier. As an office person you will feel more comfortable and concentrated.
   • It’s okay to keep a paper organizer on your desk if you’re using it every day. If you aren’t though, you’re better off storing all of that paper somewhere else.
   • Choosing whether to keep something like a tape dispenser on top of your desk depends on how much space you have and how often you use it. There are no hard rules here, so just do whatever makes sense to you.
2. Throw out or move anything in the pile you won’t use every day. The cleaner your desk is, the clearer your mind will be. Get rid of any old to-do lists, pointless scraps of paper, and trash. If you have headphones, books, or notes sprinkled all over your desk, put them away or find a different place for them. You probably don’t need more than 5-10 writing utensils, so move those extra pens and pencils as well.^[2]
   
   • A little bit of clutter isn’t intrinsically bad—a lot of people kind of feel uncomfortable with too much empty space. Just make sure that your desk is purposeful. A home office should feel like a workspace, not a play space or storage area.
3. Move your lamp, pens, and accessories to one location on your desk. Compartmentalizing all of the mandatory items and placing them in one place makes it a lot easier to keep track of things. Put your pencil cup, lamp, stapler, and tape dispenser all next to one another. Keep them near a corner of your desk if possible. This will free up some space on your desk and make it easier to stay organized.^[3]
   
   • If you’re right-handed, put all of this stuff on the left if you can and vice versa. This way, you can free up the right side of your desk so you can work on something without turning your chair or moving things around.
4. Clean your drawers out and reorganize by grouping similar items together. If you have drawers (or a storage cabinet), take everything out. Clean out any crumbs or dust and throw out anything you don’t need. Take non-work-related items to another room. Then, group your items together based on when you’ll need them or what you’re using them for, and place them in dedicated drawers or spaces. You can even use drawer dividers to create separate sections in each space as well!^[4]
   
   • For example, you may put your pens, pencils, and highlighters in one drawer, paper supplies in another, and tools (like your calculator, stapler, and tape dispenser) in a third drawer.
   • If you have a lot of art supplies or something, divide your drawers to keep different supplies separated. You could put all of your brushes in one drawer, your paint tubes in another drawer, and miscellaneous tools (like erasers or palette knives) in a third drawer.
5. Get rid of visual clutter and personal items to keep the desk space clean. Inspirational quotes and family photos are great, but that kind of stuff can distract you. They may even subconsciously interrupt your ability to process information or focus on what you’re looking at. If your heart can handle it, get rid of those random knickknacks, photos, and decorative items to free up space.^[5]
   
   • If you’re going to leave something unrelated to work on your desk, limit yourself to just one photo or desk toy.
6. Transfer post-it notes and paper reminders into digital documents. If you have a bunch of paper piling up on your desk or your corkboard is overflowing with push pins and meeting reminders, it may be time to go digital. Scan your calendar, install a scheduling program, or even open a word document and transfer all of your notes and lists.^[6]
   
   • If you love your sticky notes and you have a Windows computer, there’s a sticky note widget you can enable/install to keep your notes on your desktop.
7. Hide the power strip and tie any loose cables together. Tuck your power strip behind or under your desk to keep it out of sight. If you have a bunch of cables hanging out the back of your desk, bundle them together with a cable sleeve or zip ties. If any of your cables are too long, replace them with shorter versions of the same cable or tie them up together to make them shorter.^[7]
   
   • There are cable clips you can buy to hold loose wires on the edge of your desk when you aren’t using them. These are a great option if you have a bunch of chargers and USB ports you regularly use but you can’t keep them plugged in all the time.
   • A wireless keyboard and mouse are a great way to keep your desk space neat and wire-free if this is a big priority for you!
8. Dedicate 20 minutes a week to reorganizing your desk. You aren’t always going to be perfectly organized, and things naturally end up misplaced when you’re working in your office. Set aside 20 minutes once a week to reset everything and put it back where it belongs. This is an especially important tip if you work from home and things tend to get out of hand during the work week.^[8]
   
   • Set a reminder in your phone or on your desktop to reorganize your desk. This way it won’t slip your mind.

[Edit]Arranging the Room

1. Place your desk away from the door to maximize your workflow. If your desk is right next to the door, you may get distracted by family members or roommates making noise outside. It can also make it feel like you aren’t really in an office, since you’ll be unlikely to use the corners further away from the door. Placing the desk away from the door also gives you the opportunity to pick up things you need on your way to the desk, which can make starting work a bit easier.^[9]
   
   • A lot of people like it when the desk faces the door. If you just tuck your desk against a wall, you may feel a little claustrophobic. The room will also feel a lot smaller since you’re going to be staring a wall just behind your computer or work space.
2. Orient the desk to take advantage of any natural light. Note where the windows in your office are located, if you have them. Either face the window directly, or turn your desk so that you sit parallel to the window pane. This will brighten up your workspace and make the office feel more productive and bright if you work during the day.^[10]
   
   • If you don’t have a window in your office, consider facing the door and leave it open. This way, you’ll at least get some natural light bleeding in from the hall or room next door.
3. Create a comfortable space with carpets, plants, or bookshelves if you want. Some people prefer a hyper-minimalist office with little-to-no additional furniture. If you want to keep some reference books nearby, there’s nothing wrong with placing a bookshelf in the room. Throw in a colorful floor carpet and some plants if you want to make the space more welcoming. Just remember, you don’t want to overdo with the visual noise when it comes to decorating.^[11]
   
   • Feel free to throw some paintings or photos on the walls. Just try to minimize the amount of stuff you can see while you’re sitting at your desk. It doesn’t matter if the walls behind you are a little busy, though.
4. Make sure everything in your office will help you stay productive. When you’re arranging and furnishing your office, ask yourself “Is this going to make me more productive?” If the answer is no, keep it out of your office. Fancy end tables, extra chairs, stacks of recreational reading, and unused cabinets are just going to add to the visual clutter. If it won’t help you get work done or it won’t put your mind at ease, you don’t need it.^[12]
   
   • Unless you’re a day trader or journalist following breaking news while you work, keep the TV out of your office.
5. Find a quiet corner to set an office up if you don’t have a dedicated room. You can still set an office up if you don’t have a separate room for it! Choose an unoccupied corner or wall in a part of your home where you won’t be bothered (your bedroom is a good option). Orient your desk away from the middle of the room so you won’t be distracted. This will also help your desk feel like a dedicated workspace.^[13]
   
   • If you have a really wide closet that you aren’t using, this can be a great place for your desk. You could even close the door to hide the office if you have guests over!
   • If you’d like, you can hang a curtain or set up room dividers to separate your office from the rest of your home.
   • When choosing a desk for a non-office work space, try to match it up with the rest of the décor in your home so it doesn’t stand out.

[Edit]Adding Storage Space

1. Put a shelf over your desk if you have the wall space. If you’re short on storage space, hang a wall shelf near your desk so you can quickly reach for something you need. This is a great option if your desk is on the smaller side and you don’t have any drawers, but you have plenty of wall space. On top of that, the work supplies on your wall will serve as a visual reminder to focus on the task at hand.^[14]
   
   • A few shelves above your desk is a great solution if you have a handful of reference books you use regularly when you work from home.
   • You could always install a pegboard or wall organizer instead of a shelf if you need storage for a bunch of different supplies.^[15]
2. Place a storage caddy under your desk to get office supplies fast. If you have a bunch of forms, documents, or supplies that you need to grab fast and you don’t have a ton of space, swing by an office supply store and pick up a storage caddy. Fill it up and set it down under your desk where it will be out of sight while you work. This way, you won’t take up precious desk space but you’ll still be able to reach for what you need without disrupting your workflow or sifting through cabinets.^[16]
   
   • Storage caddies come in all sorts of shapes and sizes, so pick one that has enough compartments for your storage needs and matches your room’s décor.
3. Get a filing cabinet if you’re floundering in random paper. They’re kind of old school, but a filing cabinet is the perfect solution if your work involves a lot of paperwork. Get a bunch of hanging folders in a variety of different colors and organize all of your paperwork. For example, you could keep tax information in yellow folders, personal records in red folders, and client information in your blue folders. Label each of the tabs on your folders so you can quickly find what you need.^[17]
   
   • Another way to do it is to label each folder with a keyword and then arrange them alphabetically. This is a great option if you don’t want to color-code everything.
   • If you can, try to find a filing cabinet that’s the same height as your desk. This way, you can set it next to your desk and basically extend your work surface.
   • The top of a filing cabinet is often the perfect size for a printer if you have one.

[Edit]Setting Your Office Up

1. Choose a desk with enough storage and space for your work. If your work is mostly done on the computer, you probably don’t need a ton of drawers. If you are a lawyer or accountant, you probably need a ton of drawers to store a bunch of papers and supplies. Measure your space with a measuring tape and determine where you’re going to place your desk. Purchase a desk that matches the vibe you’re going for in your home office.^[18]
   
   • Desks come in all types and sizes. Executive desks have tons of storage space and lots of drawers. These are a good all-around option. You can get a minimalist desk with no drawers at all if you like a cleaner look. The writing desk is a good option if you only need a surface for your laptop.^[19]
2. Purchase a comfortable, adjustable office chair with a reclining back. Bad ergonomics can make the most organized of offices feel unwelcoming. Make sure your chair is comfortable and has good lumbar support. There’s no reason to get anything other than a chair with an adjustable back and height, since you can customize it to sit down with your feet perfectly flat. Make sure it has armrests and a comfortable seat to keep back pain from ruining your work day!^[20]
   
   • If you can, avoid buying an office chair online. Buy your chair in a store where you can sit down in it and test how it feels. Different people prefer different things in an office chair, so don’t assume you’ll love something with glowing reviews from an online shop!
3. Get an adjustable task lamp that will fit on your desk. Look either for a lamp that can be bent at an angle where you can control the light, or a lamp with a built-in dimmer so you can adjust the brightness. Consider how much natural or overhead lighting you’ll have before you purchase a super-powerful lamp. You typically don’t need anything too big or strong for a task lamp, so don’t overdo it.^[21]
   
   • You don’t have to use a task or table lamp if you don’t want to. If you like overhead lighting and your desk is in front of a window, you really don’t need one.
   • You can set up 1-2 standing lamps in the corners of your room to make it brighter without putting a lamp on your desk.
4. Raise your computer up to eye level and keep the keyboard flat. Sit down in your office chair and look straight ahead. This is where the top of your computer screen should go. Either adjust the height of your monitor, or set it on top of a stand to elevate it and avoid neck strain.^[22] Either keep your keyboard flat, or tilt it a little away from you if possible. It’s hard to maintain a neutral wrist if your keyboard slopes up away from you.^[23]
   
   • Your computer screen should be roughly from your eyes. If it’s farther than that, you’ll have to squint to read the screen. If it’s too close, you’ll end up with eye strain.
   • If you’re using a laptop, there are laptop stands you can buy to raise the position of your screen. You may want to connect a secondary keyboard and mouse to the laptop so you can keep your wrists straight, though.
   • You could get some blue light glasses to reduce the amount of strain your eyes experience if you spend more than 2-3 hours a day at your computer.

[Edit]Related wikiHows

• Clean Out Your Closet
• Organize Your Room
• Secure Your Wireless Home Network

[Edit]References

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Scientific articles, densely packed with jargon, can be daunting — especially when you have to read several at a clip. While it's usually worth taking your time to read the article thoroughly, in some circumstances you just don't have that kind of time. Fortunately, you don't need to read every word of a scientific article to understand the main points. Focusing on the results, particularly the included tables and charts, enables you to digest the information quickly without having to read through a lot of complex text.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Understanding Article Structure

1. Skim the section headings of the article. The section headings of the article tell you how the article is organized so you can figure out how to read it and determine if it suits your purpose. Most scientific articles are organized with the following sections:^[1]
   
   • Abstract
   • Introduction
   • Methods
   • Results
   • Discussion
2. Glance at the tables and charts. Looking at the tables and charts before you read any other part of the article can help you determine if the article will be useful for you. If the article was assigned, the tables and charts will give you a quick understanding of the article before you start reading so what you read will make more sense.^[2]
   
   • The title of each table and chart gives you a handy summary of what the study evaluated or tested. You'll likely see similar language in the abstract of the article.
3. Read the abstract to get an overview of the article. The abstract gives you a basic overview of the article in 250-500 words, so you should be able to read it relatively quickly. As you read the abstract, think back to your reason for reading the article. If it's clear from the abstract that the article doesn't support your reason for reading it, you're done. There's no need to read any further if the article won't help you.^[3]
   
   • For example, if you're looking for sources for a research paper, you'll know after reading the abstract if the article is related to your paper or would be potentially helpful for your thesis.
   • If you know you'll have to read the whole article regardless (such as if you're reading it to fulfill a course assignment), the abstract still gives you a brief overview of the whole article that you can use as a sort of map to guide your reading.
   • If there are any words in the abstract that you don't know, go ahead and look them up. If they appear in the abstract, you can be certain they'll appear frequently in the article. Knowing what they mean will help you read more quickly.^[4]

[Edit]Identifying the Main Points

1. Read the last paragraph or two of the "Background" section. The "Background" section thoroughly discusses the state of research and development on the topic prior to the study that gave rise to this particular article. If you're trying to read the article quickly, focus on the last paragraph, which summarizes the entire section and tells you the authors' purpose and objectives.^[5]
   
   • Look for a phrase at the beginning of a paragraph similar to "in this paper, we will." This is a trigger phrase that the authors are summarizing the background and explaining the objective of their research.
2. Answer "who," "what," "when," "where," "why," and "how." If you can answer these 5 questions, then you have a solid basic understanding of the article. Typically, you'll find the answers in the abstract or in the last paragraph of the "Background" section.^[6]
   
   • For example, suppose the article states: "In this paper, we will show the effect on 14- to 16-year-old Brazilian boys of eating 2 apples before playing soccer in the afternoon." From this one sentence, you know the "who" (14- to 16-year-old boys), the "what" (eating 2 apples), the "when" (before playing soccer in the afternoon), and the "where" (Brazil).
3. Highlight or underline key points of the article. Rather than reading word for word, use your understanding of the study (gleaned from the abstract or from other research) to hone in on buzzwords that indicate a particular statement is important.^[7]
   
   • For example, words such as "found," "determined," or "concluded" typically signal the results of the study or the conclusions the authors of the article reached.
   • In the methods section, highlight the word that describes the method used. It's usually a verb, such as "surveyed" or "tested." You might also see a similar phrase, such as "conducted a survey."
4. Skim for words such as "surprising" or "unexpected." If the authors uncovered something that went against their hypothesis or didn't follow the conventional wisdom of the field, you can expect to see words like these. Anything described this way is an important part of the article and something you should understand.^[8]
   
   • If you have a digital copy of the article, do a simple word search for these words and their synonyms. Read a sentence or two after any word that pops up and make a note of it.
5. Take notes as you read. Taking notes ensures that you're reading actively and will help you remember the important points later. If you're reading a scientific article quickly, you're likely not reading the whole thing, which makes your notes even more important if you need to refer back to the article later.^[9]
   
   • If you know you're going to be reading multiple articles, create a single-page form with sections for the title, keywords, hypothesis, methodology, and results. You can use this form to jot down information about the article as you read.

[Edit]Using Tables and Figures

1. Review the tables and charts in the "Results" section of the article. The tables and charts in a scientific article summarize all of the information that's provided in the "Discussion" section, enabling you to review information at a glance rather than reading through several dense pages of information. In most articles, you'll be able to understand not only the outcome of the study but also the methods the authors used to acquire the information.^[10]
   
   • Look closely at the labels and units on the axes of charts and graphs, as well as the range of values used.
   • The legend and footnotes help you better understand the information presented in the article's figures. Usually, they'll help you make sense of a figure that might not be clear at first glance.
2. Use the beginning of the "Discussion" section to explain the tables. If the tables don't make sense to you based on what you know about the article so far, the first 2 or 3 paragraphs of the "Discussion" section will help you. Here, the authors typically summarize their results and tell you how their research will potentially affect their field.^[11]
   
   • You might also read the last paragraph of the "Discussion" section, particularly if it isn't obvious to you how the research discussed potentially impacts the field or populations other than the one studied. But be careful — sometimes scientists, eager for their research to seem important, make bold, exaggerated claims that aren't likely to come to fruition any time soon.
3. Move to the "Methods" section if there's anything you don't understand. If you're still not clear on how the research was conducted or have questions about how the data was gathered, you might find the "Methods" section helpful. The first paragraph typically provides a big-picture of the methodology used, while the following paragraphs get into more specific detail.^[12]
   
   • This section can get very technical. Unless you have some reason to know the specifics for how the particular study was conducted, there's likely no reason for you to read it in depth.

[Edit]Tips

• Read scientific articles often, for your own education or enlightenment. If you read scientific articles regularly, you'll become familiar with the structure and be able to read more quickly.^[13]

[Edit]References

Vietnam’s acting health minister reported 28 new cases of Covid-19 infection yesterday, bringing its total confirmed cases to 670, as well as 2 more deaths from the disease, making the tally 8 deceased Vietnamese. 27 of the new cases were reported in the central city of Da Nang, central Quang Nam province and southern Dong Nai province, among whom 16 cases are reportedly linked to Da Nang Hospital, which is related to several previously confirmed cases.

The other case recently returned to the country from abroad and was quarantined upon arrival.

The health ministry confirmed the 2 new deaths, noting that both cases were aged over 60 with underlying medical conditions. 4 more patients were given all-clear as well yesterday, raising the total recovered cases to 378. Vietnam News Agency reports that there are around 133,300 people being quarantined and monitored in the country since the recent spike emerged around Da Nang in central Vietnam 2 weeks ago.

Vietnam is mobilising resources to contain the virus in Da Nang, as the strain detected in the tourism hub appears more transmissible than previous versions, according to health authorities:

“Results of gene sequencing showed that this is a new strain that entered Vietnam. Mutation has increased susceptibility, leading to high rates of infection. The infection rate is now about 5 to 6 people, compared to the older strains with the rate of 1.8 to 2.2 people.”

(The comments about a ‘new strain’ have not been independently verified or confirmed by the WHO)

The findings have prompted Vietnam to send resources to Da Nang while locking down parts of Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.

Vietnam was seen widely hailed as a success story for its containment of the virus, and reported it first cases after nearly 100 days in late July.

SOURCES: Xinhua | Syria News

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A vertical garden is an excellent way to upcycle an old bookshelf! If you’re jonesing for a fun and functional creative project, make it your own by painting the bookshelf and adding any other special touches. You can keep it inside or outside depending on where you want to showcase your favorite plants. However, if you’re going for an outdoor vertical garden, be sure to check your USDA plant hardiness zone so you know your plants will stay happy and healthy.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Cleaning and Sanding the Bookshelf

1. Choose a hardwood or metal bookshelf you don't use anymore. If you recently found a bookshelf or want to upcycle your own, it might be perfect for your vertical garden! Try to pick one with at least 3 or 4 evenly-spaced shelves so you can fit lots of planters on each tier.^[1]
   
   • If you want to have tall plants, make sure the shelves are far enough apart to allow them to grow upward without hitting the shelf above.
   • Check to make sure the shelves and sides don’t show signs of rotting, cracks, or wobbly screws.
   • Wooden bookshelves do better inside so the wood doesn’t deteriorate from rain or harsh weather. However, you can waterproof it with a sealant so it stays in tip-top shape.
2. Scrub down the bookshelf with a damp microfiber towel or sponge. For a hardwood shelf, spray a little water onto each shelf and wipe them down with a microfiber cloth. For a metal shelf, dampen a sponge, pour of white vinegar onto it, and use that to rub the shelves clean. Put some elbow grease into it to get as much of the dust and grime off of the shelves and sides as you can.^[2]
   
   • For a lustrous finish on a metal bookshelf, rub on some stainless steel polish with a soft rag.
3. Sand down a hardwood bookshelf if you want to paint it. Use a 150, 180, or 220-grit sanding block to get the shelves smooth to the touch. Hold the block firmly in your hand and move it back and forth along the grain (not side to side) with even pressure. Wipe away the dust when you're done.^[3]
   
   • If you don't have a sanding block, you can also cut a rectangle of sandpaper and wrap it around a small piece of wood.
   • If you have an electric sander, follow the directions in the instruction booklet about how to load it and use it safely.
   • A metal bookcase usually doesn’t need to be sanded. However, a good sanding or scrub-down with steel wool can get rid of any rusty spots.

[Edit]Priming and Painting The Bookshelf

1. Apply acrylic primer if you’re painting it with acrylic paint or keeping it outdoors. Grains of the wood can show through the final coat of paint later on, so use an acrylic primer to ensure your paint job looks great and lasts a long time. Apply it in long, even strokes with a wide paint brush and let it dry for at least 4 hours before adding your first coat of paint.^[4]
   
   • You can find priming spray at any home improvement or hardware store in the same aisle as the paint-on primer.
   • You don’t have to use a primer if you’re keeping your bookshelf inside, but it’ll help the acrylic paint stay on longer without chipping.
   • If you want to stain the wood with a wood stain like oak, mahogany, or chestnut, apply the wood stain first and then paint or spray on the primer to lock it in.
2. Paint the bookshelf with at least 2 coats of acrylic or water-based latex paint. Apply the paint in long, even strokes with a wide paintbrush or roller brush. Wait at least 4 hours for the first coat to dry before adding a second coat. If you’d rather use spray paint, move to a well-ventilated area and put on a mask. Shake the canister and hold it away from the wood. Spray the first coat on in long, even strokes then wait 4 to 6 hours to do another coat. It may take a while, but it’ll be worth it for a customized bookshelf garden!^[5]
   
   • Feel free to get creative with stencils if you’re using spray paint and want to add some artful touches to your bookshelf. Use a floral stencil to go with a garden theme or use stencil lettering to write your name, words of encouragement, or your favorite quote onto the side of the shelf—the possibilities are endless!
   • Choose warm colors like red, orange, or yellow to make the green leaves on your plants stand out. Or, you can choose deep red, purple, blue, or green to make it look calm and inviting. Bright white paint is a good choice if you want it to look clean and minimalist.
   • Consider painting the vertical backs and sides of each shelf a different color from the rest of the wood to add some character and depth. For instance, you might paint the backs and sides of each interior shelf a soft white and make the rest of the wood baby blue.
   • Be sure to paint or spray paint outdoors or in a well-ventilated room and put down some newspaper or a tarp to protect nearby surfaces.
3. Wait at least 4 to 6 hours for the paint to dry completely. After the final coat is on, check the time so you know when you’re ready to start gathering or potting your plants. If the bookshelf is inside, open a nearby window or set up a fan to help the paint dry faster.^[6]
   
   • The paint will be dry to the touch after just 1 or 2 hours, but it may still be prone to chipping or smudging so it’s better to wait a full 4 to 6 hours.
4. Protect a wooden outdoor bookshelf with a waterproof sealant. After the paint has dried completely, apply a water-based polycrylic sealant with a wide paintbrush. If you’re using sealant spray, hold the canister away from the surface and spray it on in long, even strokes. Let it dry for at least 4 to 6 hours before you start to decorate the shelves with plants and other knick-knacks.^[7]
   
   • You can buy polycrylic sealant from any home improvement or hardware store.
   • The sealant will look a little cloudy at first, but it’ll dry clear to show off your beautiful paint job!
   • You can also use an oil-based sealant like polyurethane but it’s not a great choice because it emits toxic fumes.

[Edit]Adding Plants

1. Place the bookshelf in a spot that gets at least 4-6 hours of sunlight. Put the vertical garden somewhere that works for most (if not all) of the plants’ needs. Pick a spot that’s spacious and easy to get to so you can water the plants when you need to. Make sure it's in an area that gets at least 4 to 6 hours of direct or indirect sunlight to keep your plants healthy and happy!^[8]
   
   • If you're putting it outside, don't put it near your driveway or a child's play area—anywhere with heavy foot traffic is a bad idea because it may accidentally get knocked over.
2. Install furniture anchoring hooks on either side of the shelf to hold it in place. Once your bookshelf is in place in front of a wall or fence, screw or nail furniture anchoring hooks or brackets into the wall behind the bookshelf on the left and right sides. Attach the other end of the anchoring hooks (at the end of each strap) to the back of the bookshelf either with nails or screws. The strap between the shelf and the wall should have very little slack so the bookshelf won’t wobble or topple over.^[9]
   
   • There are different types of furniture anchoring kits so choose one that works for the material of your walls and the shelf (e.g., heavy-duty screws work best for cement board walls while nails will work for wood and drywall). You can buy them at any hardware or home improvement store.
   • This is especially important if you live in an area with earthquakes or strong winds that might blow it over.
   • If you're using a leaning bookshelf, definitely secure it to a wall!
   • If you're keeping it inside or only putting a few small plants on it, it's okay to skip this step.
3. Choose plants that thrive in your climate or have similar water and light needs. If you're putting the bookshelf outside, look up your USDA hardiness zone to see which plants do best in your region. And no matter where you put them, take note of the temperature, light, and water the plants require so you know how to keep them healthy. It’s okay if they have slightly different watering needs but make sure the plants you choose all need the same amount and quality of light (i.e., direct or indirect) since they’ll be in close quarters.^[10]
   
   • Make sure the plants won't grow so tall that they hit the bottom of the shelf above.
   • Succulents are great indoor or outdoor plants that are often pretty stout and easy to take care of.
   • Herbs like rosemary, dill, cilantro, and basil are great additions to an indoor or outdoor bookshelf—plus you'll get to enjoy them on your favorite dishes!
   • As an example, you might put some succulents and herbs on the top shelf, geraniums and begonias on the center shelves, and ferns or bromeliads on the bottom shelf.
   • Avoid vining crops or flowers that need a trellis to grow—these include tomatoes, beans, peas, nasturtium, Mandevilla, trumpet creepers, morning glory, bougainvillea, black-eyed Susans, jasmine, and clematis.
4. Put the plants in small, well-draining pots filled with nutrient-dense potting soil. Either purchase, plant, or propagate the plants you want to put on your bookshelf. Go to your local garden supply store or nursery to buy starter plants if you'd rather not go through the hassle of germinating seeds and waiting for them to sprout.^[11]
   
   • Buying plants can be pricey, so look for special sales and buy smaller ones to save a few bucks.
   • Most flowers and houseplants can be put in potting soil, but things like succulents and air plants need different types of soil (or none at all) to ensure the roots don't get too moist.
   • If you're sowing the plant from a seed, fill containers with potting soil and stick the seed into the soil (or however deep the seed packet specifies). Water them every day until you see sprouts. Once they're tall, you can transfer them into larger pots.
   • If you already have some plants you like, consider propagating them if possible. Pothos, prayer plants, African violets, gardenia, umbrella plants, rosemary, and philodendron are all super easy to propagate from cuttings.
5. Arrange the potted plants on the shelves with the heaviest at the bottom. Put the heaviest containers on the bottom shelf and the lightest ones on the top to help the bookcase stay level and sturdy. Be sure to leave some space between the plants so they're not too cramped and having to fight for sunlight.^[12]
   
   • For example, say you have a large potted fern, a big rubber plant, a few medium-sized flowering plants, and some small herbs or cacti. Put the fern and the rubber plant on the bottom, the flowering ones on the middle shelves, and the small pots on top. However, if you have a flowering plant that needs more sunlight than the cacti (like a shasta daisy versus Thanksgiving or Easter cactus), swap them so each plant gets the light it needs.
   • If you have trailing plants, put those on top so the leaves can hang down the sides and front of the bookcase.
   • If a bottom shelf doesn't get as much light because of the way the bookshelf is facing, it's okay to put that plant on a higher shelf if it needs more light. Just make sure the bookcase is secured to a wall or fence so it doesn't topple over.
6. Hang small vertical planters onto the sides of the bookcase to maximize space. If you want your bookshelf garden to be bursting with beautiful greenery and blooms, stick vertical planters onto the sides. You can hammer nails into the sides to hang traditional vertical planters or use extra-strength tacky hooks.^[13]
   
   • Bromeliads (sky plants), Spanish moss, pink quills, and orchids are all beautiful air plants that will add a touch of tropical charm to your garden. Just make sure they're suitable for your USDA zone if the bookshelf is outside.
   • Vines like pothos, ivy, philodendron, and wandering jew are perfect for draping down the sides of the bookshelf. Plus, they’ll thrive if you’re keeping the bookshelf inside where there’s only indirect lighting.
7. Decorate your bookshelf with lights, art, and any other trinkets. If the bookshelf is inside, feel free to put a small lamp on the top shelf to illuminate your lovely garden. If it’s outside, string outdoor twinkle lights around the top or along the shelves of the bookcase. Place picture frames, candles, decorative vases, jugs, small paintings, sculptures, or books on the shelf to add your own style.^[14]
   
   • If you’re keeping it outside, don’t put anything on the shelf that can be damaged by water. Stick to stone sculptures and maybe some small pictures or art pieces in weatherproof frames or frames that you don’t care about getting damaged.
   • You can also buy short strands of LED “fairy” lights to put on each shelf. Just make sure they’re suitable for outdoor use if your garden is outside.

[Edit]Tips

• Use organic or natural pest repellants to keep your plants healthy and bug-free!^[15]
• Prune or deadhead blooming plants whenever you notice they’re wilted or dropping leaves.^[16]

[Edit]Warnings

• Double check that the shelves are stable and that the whole bookshelf is situated in a safe, sturdy spot.
• If you have pets and are keeping your vertical garden indoors, make sure to choose non-toxic plants.^[17]
• Always put on a mask and goggles before you start standing wood. Never sand indoors because the wood dust can hang in the air long after you’re done and may cause respiratory problems.^[18]

[Edit]Things You'll Need

• Bookshelf
• Water
• Microfiber cloth
• Sponge
• White vinegar
• Fine-grit sanding block (or sandpaper and small wooden block)
• Acrylic or water-based latex paint
• Wide paintbrush or roller brush
• Stabilizing hooks or furniture anchors
• Potted plants (or seeds, potting soil, and pots)
• Polycrylic sealant (optional, for an outdoor wooden bookcase)
• Small vertical planters (optional)
• Paint primer (optional)
• Wood stain (optional)
• Stainless steel polish (optional)

[Edit]References

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Basil is one of the most widely-used herbs in the world, but every cook knows that fresh basil tastes way better than the dried stuff. Basil also happens to be very easy to grow at home. It’s a plant that lasts only a year, but it can produce as much as 12 cups (241.2 g) of leaves in that short time. It’s a hardy, warm-weather plant that doesn’t require a lot of maintenance. You can also grow basil from seeds or get a grown plant for something that adds both color and utility to your home.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Sowing Basil Seeds

1. Plant basil seeds in late winter or early spring. Basil seeds prefer warm soil and warm weather. The best time to plant seeds is at the end of May if you’re in the northern half of the world or November if you’re in the southern half. Seeds can also be planted before or after that, but try to time it so they aren’t exposed to frosty weather.^[1]
   
   • Even if you’re planning on keeping your basil plants outdoors, you can start them indoors to protect them from the cold. Try planting them 6 to 8 weeks ahead of time, either in late winter or early spring.
   • Although basil can be grown at any time during the year, it tends to turn out weak and sickly during the winter months.
   • Seeds are available online and at most gardening centers, along with pots and soil. Basil seed packets contain 100 or more seeds that stay good for up to 5 years. Plant according to how much basil you wish to harvest each year.
2. Choose a pot with drainage holes on the bottom. You don’t have to have a big pot to start growing basil seeds. The type of pot doesn’t really matter either, so choose a style you like. The important part is that it drains well so the soil doesn’t get too wet. Also, get a plant saucer to place underneath the pot so you don’t end up with a big mess each time you water the soil.^[2]
   
   • Bigger pots are fine, too. They are useful if you don't want to bother with replanting every single basil sprout later. You can usually grow several smaller basil plants together, although it’s better to separate them.
   • You can even use small, plastic growing trays to get seeds started.
3. Select a well-draining potting mix for the seeds. Purchase a quality potting soil at your local gardening center. Make sure it isn’t an outdoor-type soil, since that can be too heavy for basil seeds. Soilless and seed-starting mixes also work well. If you can, get a sterilized mix to protect your seeds from bacteria and other contaminants.^[3]
   
   • The soil’s pH level should be 6.5 to 7. Most store-bought soils are a neutral 7, but you can use a pH testing kit from your local hardware store to test this.
   • To make your own soil-based mix, combine equal amounts of sterilized loam, peat sand, and a supplement like perlite, vermiculite, or coarse sand.^[4]
   • You can also make your own soilless potting mix so transplanting is easier. For example, try combining 2 parts peat moss with 2 parts perlite or vermiculite.
4. Fill the pot ¾ of the way with moist soil. Pour soil into the pot, then use a watering can to gently water it. Watch for water to come out of the drainage holes at the bottom. To ensure the soil is at the perfect consistency for your new basil garden, take a trowel and lightly mix the soil until you’re sure it’s consistent.^[5]
   
   • Test the soil’s consistency by scooping up a little with a spoon. Squeeze it between your fingers. It should be a cool, damp clump when you first pick it up, but fall apart when you squeeze it.
5. Spread the seeds at least apart. Basil seeds don’t need a ton of room to begin sprouting, so you can start multiple seeds in the same pot. Scatter a few of them across the pot by hand. Leave them on top of the soil for now.^[6]
   
   • Keep in mind what you plan on doing with the grown plants. If you intend on keeping some together, space them apart. Don’t put additional seeds in unless you’re willing to dig them back out later.
   • No matter how much you scatter the seeds, they may not all sprout. They don’t need a lot of space to sprout, so placing them far apart doesn’t guarantee that they will all grow.
6. Sprinkle of soil onto the seeds to bury them. You won’t need a thick layer of soil, since that could prevent the seeds from growing. Instead, add just enough to cover them. Scatter the soil around without pressing down on the seeds.^[7]
   
   • If you’re looking to give your basil a boost, use an organic compost instead of more soil. Try using a loam-based compost mix or even a layer of vermiculite, for instance.
   • Compacting the soil could bury or otherwise damage the seeds, so be gentle when topping the basil seeds. You don’t have to press down on the soil at all.
7. Mist the soil lightly until the upper layer is moist. Fill a small spray bottle with room-temperature water, then spray the soil evenly. Make sure it is moist throughout. When it’s at the right consistency, it will turn a dark color and clump together when you pick some of it up. As long as the soil is at the right consistency, you can sit back and wait 8 to 14 days for the seeds to sprout.^[8]
   
   • If you have a seed propagator, you can move the potted seeds into there to lock in the moisture. Another option is to lay a freezer bag over the pot and secure it with rubber bands.
   • Too much water will cause the seeds to rot, so use a light touch to keep the soil moist but not soggy.
8. Place the basil in a spot that receives 6 hours of sunlight a day. Basil grows well in sunlight and warm soil. Try keeping your plants on a sunny windowsill, for instance. Make sure they are protected from temperature spikes and moisture leaks. Keep them away from air conditioners and other sources of cold drafts.^[9]
   
   • When your basil starts to grow, you can leave the pots in the same, warm spot. If you’re moving them outside, select a similar spot that receives at least 6 hours of sunlight.
   • To figure out which areas in your home get plenty of sunlight, check around during a sunny day. Note which spots get shady as the day goes on.

[Edit]Handling Older Basil Plants

1. Select pots for grown basil plants. Try getting pots that are about deep and hold about . Grown basil requires more space than seedlings. If you’re able to get a pot for each basil plant you’re growing, plant them all separately so they have plenty of room to spread out. Their roots will have much more room to spread out.^[10]
   
   • Another option is to get a pot and space 3 basil plants apart.
   • Small basil plants can also survive for a while in pots, but be prepared to transfer them to something bigger if they outgrow those ones.
2. Transfer seedlings to their own pots after they sprout 2 leaves. Watch for the actual basil leaves, not the small, spade-shaped seed leaves. The seed leaves appear first, followed by the tasty herb leaves.Once your plant has 2 to 5 of these true leaves, prepare to transfer it to a bigger pot where it will have plenty of room to grow out its roots.^[11]
   
   • True leaves look like mature basil leaves on a fully-grown plant. They are green and full. Regular basil leaves have a rounded shape, but sweet basil leaves are more pointed.
   • The seed leaves will fall off as the basil continues to grow.
3. Dig a hole about in size for the plant. Put on some gardening gloves to push aside the soil in the center of the pot. Make sure the hole is roughly the same size as the plant’s width. You can gauge the width by measuring the distance between the tips of the outermost leaves. Basil sprouts are replanted while they are still small, so you won’t have to do a lot of digging to give them a comfortable new home.^[12]
   
   • If you’re dealing with an older basil plant, follow the same steps. Make sure the hole is wide and deep enough to hold the plant’s root ball.
   • If you’re transplanting an older plant, put its pot inside the new pot. Pack dirt around the old pot to make a perfectly-sized hole.
4. Remove the basil from its original container. Use a trowel to shift the dirt aside. Stay around the edges of the leaves so you don’t accidentally cut into the roots. When you’re ready to remove the basil, lightly grip the stem underneath the lowest leaves. Place your other hand against the container, then slide the plant out.^[13]
   
   • If you have the basil in a pot, tip the pot over to make the basil a little easier to remove.
   • For seed-grown basil, be careful to avoid hitting the roots of any nearby sprouts. Also, don’t attempt to pull the basil out if it feels stuck.
5. Bury the basil up to its lower leaves in the new pot. Set the basil root-first into the hole you dug. Check that the lowest leaves are right above the rim of the pot. If it looks good, push some of the soil toward the stem by hand or with a trowel. Keep the roots covered and the stem exposed so the basil grows strong and healthy.^[14]
   
   • Any leaves that are in the soil will rot, so don’t bury them. If they are touching the soil, they could also get infected with a bacterial disease.
6. Wait until the weather is over before moving basil outdoors. If you wish to keep potted basil outside, wait until the last frost of the season has passed. Keep an eye on the temperature over a couple of days to make sure it stays around . If it looks like it’s going to fall below , then your plants will be in trouble. Basil grows really well as long as the weather stays warm.^[15]
   
   • The last frost is usually in late May for the northern hemisphere and November for the southern hemisphere, but it can vary a lot depending on where you live.
   • You can help shield outdoor plants from a sudden temperature drop by covering the soil with pine straw or another type of mulch. However, it’s usually easier to move potted basil back indoors.

[Edit]Tips

• Basil flowers in summer and fall, and the flowers are edible. If you want your plant to produce better leaves, pinch off the flowers as they show up. Let them grow if you wish to get some seeds for next year.^[16]
• When your basil plant first starts growing, consider pinching off weaker leaves and sides so the remaining leaves have a stronger taste. You can start pruning it once it’s about tall.^[17]
• Basil doesn’t really need fertilizer to grow, but you can add some to encourage it to grow bigger. Dilute a liquid fertilizer to ¼ of the manufacturer’s recommended dose, then add it about once a month when watering your plant.^[18]

[Edit]Things You’ll Need

[Edit]Sowing Basil Seeds

• Gardening gloves
• Trowel
• pot
• Potting mix

[Edit]Handling Older Basil Plants

• Gardening gloves
• Trowel
• Potting mix
• pot

[Edit]References

Most herbs thrive in light, well-drained soil with a neutral pH and average nutrient levels. If you want to plant your herbs in ideal conditions for the best growth and flavor, test your soil quality in the spring before you start planting anything. If your tests show that the soil’s pH, nutrients, or drainage aren’t ideal, don’t worry! There are plenty of simple amendments you can make to modify your soil and get it ready to produce a healthy crop of herbs.

[Edit]Steps

[Edit]Testing and Amending the Soil

1. Wait until spring and choose a sunny spot for your herb garden. Begin prepping your garden space in the spring once it starts warming up a bit. Since most herbs do best in full sunlight, which is 6-8 hours daily, be sure to select a nice, bright area for your garden.^[1]
   
   • The quality and flavor of herbs are best when they’re grown in full sun.
   • Some herbs may tolerate partial shade, so be sure to check the specifics on each seed packet. For example, angelica, woodruff, sweet cicely, parsley, and mint grow well in partial shade.^[2]
2. Dig a hole deep and fill it with water to test soil drainage. Grab a shovel and dig a hole that’s about deep and wide. Use your hose to fill the hole with water and let it sit overnight to saturate the soil. The following day, fill it up with water again and check the hole every hour to measure the water level as it drains. Ideal soil will drain about per hour.^[3]
   
   • Well-drained soil is crucial for growing herbs. If your soil has poor drainage, don’t worry! You can amend the soil to make it more hospitable for herbs.
   • Typically, loamy and sandy soils work best for herbs. Clay soils tend to be heavy and have poor drainage.^[4]
   • Some light sandy soils drain too quickly, but you can add organic matter to the soil to improve moisture retention.
3. Mix in of organic matter to enrich soil and improve drainage or retention. Shovel and overturn the dirt, breaking up any large clumps as you go. Remove any weeds that you find. Then, add your organic matter to the soil and mix it in well with your shovel or a hoe until it's fully fully incorporated.^[5]
   
   • For average soils, use peat moss, coconut husks, or compost to improve the drainage. Mix it into the top of soil thoroughly with a shovel or hoe.^[6]
   • To improve drainage in clay soils, add of fine pine bark, cracked pea gravel, or coarse compost.
   • Improve the moisture retention of light, sandy soils with of fine pine bark, compost, or leaf mold.^[7]
4. Use a store-bought soil pH test to check for a pH range between 6 and 7. Most herbs do best in neutral soil that is neither too alkaline nor too acidic. Buy a soil pH testing kit at your local nursery and follow the included instructions to measure the pH level of your soil.^[8]
   
   • A pH range of 6.5-7 is optimal, but anything between 6 and 7 is neutral enough for most herbs.^[9]
5. Add agricultural lime or dolomite to the soil if your pH reading was too low. Purchase lime or dolomite at a garden center or nursery. Reference the application ratio on the lime package to see how much to add to your soil. Mix lime into soil and incorporate thoroughly with a spade or tiller.^[10]
   
   • You may want to opt for a lighter application of lime if you are unsure which ratio to use. Over-application of lime can be very difficult to correct.
   • Wait a few days for the lime to fully incorporate before planting anything.
   • You can run another soil test to confirm that the pH is improved.
6. Lower the soil's pH by mixing sphagnum peat into the soil. If your soil pH is too high, the easiest way to lower it is by mixing in organic matter like sphagnum peat. Spread a layer of sphagnum peat over your garden plot and work it into the top of soil.^[11]
   
   • If you want to make sure pH is in the right range after amending the soil, quickly run another soil test.
7. Check the soil’s nutrient levels with a store-bought soil test. Your pH test may also test nutrient levels, so be sure to check the test’s packaging. If it doesn’t, get a separate soil nutrient test at a garden center. Follow the included directions to find out how much nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are present in the soil. The test results will show if the soil is low, average, or high in these 3 key nutrients.^[12]
   
   • This test doesn't give you an actual score or number. It provides a range from low to high, indicates the ideal level, and tells you where your soil falls on the spectrum.
   • Once you know the nutrient levels, you can amend the soil to raise or lower nutrients, as needed.
   • If your soil has adequate levels of these 3 nutrients already, you don't need to do anything to reduce nutrient levels. Just be sure to avoid adding fertilizer to the soil during the growing season.^[13]
8. Apply a fertilizer to replenish any nutrients that your soil needs. If your test shows that the soil lacks nutrients, choose a liquid or granular commercial fertilizer that will replenish it. Start with low strength fertilizers and move up to stronger fertilizers, if needed, according to your soil test results. Always follow the fertilizer’s instructions and use the correct amount for your garden size and soil type.^[14]
   
   • If you are deficient in just 1 nutrient, buy fertilizer to boost that nutrient without affecting the others.
   • You may need another application of fertilizer during the growing season if the herbs aren’t doing well. If your herbs are thriving, avoid fertilizing again.

[Edit]Tilling the Soil and Preparing Beds

1. Moisten the soil in the planting area lightly with a garden hose. Moist soil makes tilling much easier and more effective. You don't need to drench the soil with water so that it turns into mud, though! Just dampen the top of the soil a bit with your garden hose before you dig in with your garden spade or tiller.^[15]
   
2. Use a garden spade or tiller to loosen the top of soil. For a small or medium-sized backyard herb garden, you can easily turn the earth manually with a garden spade. Thrust the spade into the ground, scoop up the earth, and turn the spade upside down to break up the soil. Work the soil to a depth of and cover the entire garden area.^[16]
   
   • Remove any rocks or hard clods of dirt as you turn the soil over.
   • If you’re planting a large field of herbs, it might be easier to turn the soil with a tiller.
3. Shovel or rake the soil into beds that are high. Raised beds can be helpful if the ground is low, the soil drains poorly, or you live in a wet climate. Rake the soil into rows that are high and as long as you'd like. Then, level the top of each row with a shovel or rake to make the beds about wide.^[17]
   
   • You can make your raised beds even more pronounced by framing the planting area with plywood or rocks several inches high. Then, fill the area with soil and plant your herb seeds or seedlings as you normally would.^[18]
   • Raised beds also increase the soil temperature, which most herbs will love.
4. Plant your chosen herbs on top of the prepared beds. Be sure to check the seed packet instructions for details on adequate spacing and depth for each herb type, how often to water the herbs, and so on. Plant the herbs in the center of each bed.^[19]
   
   • If you'd prefer to plant seedlings that you bought from a nursery, check for a little flag stuck in each seedling's pot that has planting instructions. You can also look up the herbs online to find planting instructions!

[Edit]Things You’ll Need

• Garden spade or tiller
• Shovel or hoe
• Soil pH test
• Soil nutrient test
• Herb seeds of your choice
• Organic matter (peat moss, pine bark, compost, well-rotted manure)
• Lime or dolomite (optional)
• Garden spade or tiller

[Edit]Tips

• If you are growing herbs in containers, the soil's nutrients will gradually leach out as you water the pots. You can help improve the soil by adding commercial fertilizer.
• Herbs that thrive in moist soils include: most varieties of mint, lovage, and angelica.
• Plant mint varieties separately from your other herbs since they can be very invasive.

[Edit]Video

[Edit]Related wikiHows

• Plant in Poor Soils

[Edit]References