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08 Nov 18:02

The Swelled Edge, A Quarter-Inch Of Distinction

by Christian

bb62

Ivy-style tweed sports jackets and suits are often distinguished by detailed quarter-inch stitching from the edge of the lapels down the front of the jacket. This distinctive feature is usually echoed by lapped seams that run across the shoulder, down the back seam, and around the pocket flaps.

But how did it get there?

Everyone who’s considered this question agrees that the stitching gives the jacket a sporty look, and that the addition of what English tailors sometimes refer to as a “swelled” edge makes for a casual, jaunty touch. It’s certainly something that one would never expect to see on a fine worsted or flannel business suit. We seem to intuitively recognize that this almost imperceptible detail is at home more in the country than in town, that this rakish element produces a casual, country effect.

And, as it happens, our intuitions are once again right. The quarter-inch stitch is in fact a vestigial visible trace of something long gone from utilitarian practice — and memory. It hangs on as decor rather than as a functioning detail, but like the two buttons in the small of the back of a tailcoat (originally used to button the tails when in the saddle), the quarter-inch stitch once had an important function. At least if you lived in the country and followed country pursuits.

Tweed jackets and coats, it should be remembered, were the Victorian equivalent of sportswear, the most useful country garment a gentleman could devise at the time to protect himself from the cold and wet of a day’s hunting, stalking or riding. The wool fabric is hearty and handsome, absorbent, abrasion-resistant, and warm. But without the tailor’s art, it would become a baggy mess after a few short hours on the moors. That’s where the quarter-inch stitch comes in.

In order to prevent the lapels (and therefore front of the jacket) from collapsing when soaked with rain, some unacknowledged tailors figured out that a reinforcing row of stitching down the front edge of the coat would keep the whole thing better in place. And it does. The additional stitching along the lapel helps the coat keep its shape by holding the cloth – both the inside and outside layers — together when wet.

Today we really don’t wear our sports jackets in the rain: various synthetic fibers and waxed fabrics have replaced wool for so many occasions. But that handsome quarter-inch of stitching is there as a jaunty reminder that these handsome coats we now wear as mere plumage were originally designed with great utility in mind. — G. BRUCE BOYER

boyer-bioLegendary menswear writer G. Bruce Boyer was men’s fashion editor at Town & Country throughout the ’70s and ’80s. He has recently returned to writing for the magazine.

Above image is a 1962 illustration from Brooks Brothers, which features swelled edges on its current Own Make sportcoats.

24 Sep 13:32

Photographer Charles Freger shoots pre-Christian costumes and...

by jessethorn


Photographer Charles Freger shoots pre-Christian costumes and rituals throughout Europe. His photographs are just remarkable. Check them out here.

23 Sep 20:50

The Titanic Orphans

by Greg Ross

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Michel_Marcel_Navratil

Among the survivors of the Titanic were two boys who were unclaimed by any adult. They were very young, 2 and 3 years old, and they spoke no English, so the two became a brief media sensation as authorities sought to locate their parents.

They turned out to be Edmond and Michel Navratil, sons of a French tailor who had spirited them away from their mother and booked a passage under an assumed name. When the ship hit the iceberg, “He dressed me very warmly and took me in his arms,” Michel recalled. “A stranger did the same for my brother. When I think of it now, I am very moved. They knew they were going to die.”

“I don’t recall being afraid,” Michel said. “I remember the pleasure really of going ‘plop’ into the lifeboat.” A woman in their boat took charge of the orphans when they reached safety, and eventually their mother in France read the news reports and claimed them. Michel grew up to be a professor of philosophy and died in 2001, the last male survivor of the sinking.

“I died at 4,” he once said. “Since then I have been a fare-dodger of life. A gleaner of time.”

19 Sep 18:41

A Day’s Work

by Greg Ross

gehrig mitchell ruth

On April 2, 1931, during an exhibition game between the minor-league Chattanooga Lookouts and the New York Yankees, 17-year-old pitcher Jackie Mitchell found herself facing Babe Ruth.

She struck him out in four pitches. “I had a drop pitch,” she said, “and when I was throwing it right, you couldn’t touch it.”

The New York Times reported that Ruth “flung his bat away in high disdain and trudged to the bench, registering disgust with his shoulders and chin.”

“I don’t know what’s going to happen if they begin to let women in baseball,” he told a Chattanooga newspaper. “Of course, they will never make good. Why? Because they are too delicate. It would kill them to play ball every day.”

Next up was Lou Gehrig. She struck him out, too.

18 Sep 12:52

Best Affordable Blazers & Sportcoats – Fall 2013

by Joe

It’s just not fair. A guy in a well tailored sportcoat or blazer has an unfair advantage vs. the rest of the room. A jacket cleans up your lines. It makes you look stronger and smarter. And with the market explosion of casual sport-coats, you can access all of these blazer-advantages even while wearing jeans. There’s no doubt that fall is the prime season for blazers and sportcoats. With affordability in mind, here’s this year’s best bets.

 

Uniqlo Tweed Jacket – $99.90 | Corduroy Blazer – $69.90

Uniqlo Blazers fall 2013 tweed and cord

Recently hit Uniqlo’s site and has the potential to be the best bang-for-the-buck option of fall 2013. You used to be able to score a great chino blazer at Old Navy for like $40. Those days are gone. The vast majority of the time, if a blazer is under $100, it’s going to be all poly or overly-trendy. Except for at Uniqlo. Fits can be a little goofy on some frames (arms tend to run long and jacket tails tend to be short), but it seems like they’re working their way out of that. Lots of patterns and colors to choose from, including that outstanding looking deep-red “wine” on the right. Tweed is 70% wool. Cord is all cotton. Both are lined in poly. Got one on the way for an in-person.

 

Banana Republic Tailored Fit Plaid Cotton Blazer – $250.00

BR Plaid cotton

You’ll have to play the waiting game with BR Blazers, since 99% of the time they’re excluded from codes. Cotton fabric is excellent. The muted plaid is perfect for fall. And for being fused, it moves well. But, and here’s a big but, the sleeve buttons are functional. Sleeves seem to run a little long too. Really, really wish retailers would get the hint and stop doing that. It’s such a pain to tailor that functioning sleeve buttons are a deal-breaker for most of us. Size shown here is a 38R.

 

Banana Republic Modern Slim Fit Chalk Stripe Blazer – $179.99 ($250)

br brushed chalk stripe

Just went on sale for… 28% off. No code necessary. This is their newer, slimmer “modern slim fit”, which is a bit tighter than the “tailored fit” most of us are used to. All cotton, but it has a bit of a brushed-flannel look to it. Sure seems like the model could use a smaller size. UPDATE: Try BRSHOP35 for an extra 35% off on this one. Maybe the code works on sale… blazers? Seems to be working for some but not others…

 

GAP Corduroy Blazer – $57.85 w/ GAPFALL (89.00)

Gap Cord Blazer

One of the better blazers GAP has produced in a while. A good weight corduroy, fully lined in cotton, and nicely tailored off the rack. … sonofa… functioning sleeve buttons again. The hell gap? At least since it’s more casual, you can get away with fudging on the sleeves. A great deal if you catch a sale. Super comfortable. Also available in a lighter brown/khaki called “pecan”. Size shown is a Medium. Currently 35% off with GAPFALL, which is a sizable code for gap. Works on full priced styles.

 

Bonobos Washed Chino Blazer – $198.00

Bonobos Chino Blazers

Not. Cheap. BUT… if you’re looking to translate a little of the bright-color summer style into fall and winter, a colorful but muted option like either of these might be a solid play. Also available in the more expected navy and khaki shades. Ships free and returns are super easy. Ninja service. Made from the same excellent fabric that their washed chinos are cut from.

 

Claiborne Wool Blend Herringbone – $69.99 ($90)

claiborne blazer fall

New season, same great Claiborne off-the-rack-fit. One complaint about this one: The lining feels a little scratchy. Not awful, but could be a little slicker. Look for these over by the peacoats… with the faux-fur collars.

 

Hugh & Crye Half-Lined Wool & Wool Blend Blazers – $245.00

HandC Buggy

This IS the construction many of us are a looking for. A half-lined blazer (or, “buggy-back”) as H&C calls it is preferred by many. Let’s the back breathe, and if you’ve got some muscle on you, full lining really doesn’t do much for your frame. Button stance looks to be dead center (some prefer it a little lower). Pattern on this one in particular is right on, but know that the patterned options are a 60% wool and 40% poly blend. Lots of potential here. Haven’t seen one in person yet. And be careful when it comes to their sizing: some of us are tweeners who have struck out with H&C. Ships free since these are over $150, and they should return free as well.

 

JC Penney Stafford Blazers – $100 – $150 when 50% off

jcp fall blazers

Slated to start arriving in October, the $300 full retail price is steep. But, it’s JC Penney, who went back to coupons and massive markdowns after the departure of Ronny J. Expect them to settle in around $150? It’s all about shoulders and armholes here. Last fall Stafford’s blazers had thick shoulder pads and low armholes. And as good as these look on the screen, if you can’t move your arms and you feel like you’re ready to get in the game at strong side linebacker, then forget it.

UPDATE: Here’s the camel hair on the left, and the tweed on the right. Both currently 50% off, and You can use the code 2DAYONLY for an extra 20% off. But a warning: They’re labeled as “classic fit”. Hopes are sinking on these. Checked in store a few days ago and didn’t see em’ there. Hat tip to Chris D. in the comments.

 

J. Crew Factory Wool/Nylon Blend Sportcoats – $117.60 – $131.60 w/ THIRTY

Factory fall blazers

You guys know how the Factory pricing game works. Everything is almost always on sale. And then an extra 30% – 50% off code will come along, or, prices get marked down further sitewide and then you can code stack. Awaiting the arrival of one of these for an in person. Any reaction from you guys who got your hands on one already? They can be hit-or-miss some years. But when they’re a hit, they’re solid for the price. Many thanks for the tips about J. Crew Factory launching an extra 30% off code, THIRTY, as of this morning. It’s good through next Tuesday 9/24.

 

Joseph Abboud Unlined Blazer – $173.25 | Lined Blazer – $133.92

abboud blazer

Made in the USA. And these two couldn’t feel more different. The one on the left is a like a wool version of the ol’ INC ultra lights. No lining. No shoulder padding. Will be loved by some, and hated by others. They call it their “Soft construction”, and it’s very similar to the Havana Jacket from Suitsupply… which costs $399. More over here. Also available in a solid slate grey for $200. That one is made from a ridiculously smooth wool/cashmere/silk blend. But two bills sure feels like a lot for what amounts to a shirt cut into a blazer. Meanwhile, the cheaper option is fully lined with bemberg. Again, both are Made in the USA and might be worth a shot. Sold through Amazon.

 

American Eagle Twill Blazer - $67.46 ($89.95)

AE chino blazer

Yeah. American Eagle. Good thing the only noticeable branding on this thing appears to be on the edge of the buttons. It looks like the Target Merona Kensington is being discontinued. Is this really going to be the only other option? Meanwhile, sad to see that the AE “wool” blazer is almost all poly this year. Last year’s version wasn’t half bad.

 

Bar III Brown Tweed Suit – $440 w/ VIP (but wait for a bigger sale)

Bar III tweed

Something to keep an eye on. Hang out for a bigger sale. These should drop below $300 at some point since it’s Macy’s. A new arrival, and yeah, it’s a suit, but unlike a smooth pinstripe, a textured brown suit jacket like the one in these suit separates can be broken up and worn with other pieces. Description says it’s wool… all wool? A blend? Haven’t caught it in store yet. (Update: But it was just noticed over here. Hat tip to GQ, they mentioned it first.)

 

Billy Reid Jonathan Navy Cord – $238.00 ($595)

BReid Cord Blazer

The really, really expensive option when compared to the GAP navy blue cord blazer. But man does this thing get it all right. Barely lined. Natural horn buttons. Incredible attention to detail and made in Italy. Plenty more views over at Mr. Porter.

 

J. Crew Ludlow English Wool – $246.00 w/ SHOPFALL

JCrew Navy Tweed Blazer fall 2013

A potential signature piece for some, but it’s going to need a little work. The thickness of the English Wool from Moon Mills is off the charts. It’s so thick, that off the rack it doesn’t move the best. Here’s to hoping it would loosen up a touch over time. Size shown here is a 38R, and it fits decently in the body (I usually get the waist + chest brought in a touch on Ludlows… same deal would have to be done here), but the sleeves need some real work. Thankfully, J. Crew’s sleeve buttons are non-functional, and free of any faux-stitching around them. Super easy to tailor. Again, can’t get over how thick the wool is. Going to be too thick for some.

 

Ludlow in Herringbone Italian Linen – $187.49 w/ SHOPFALL ($348)

Sportcoats in linen

So the thick English wool version is tempting, but you’re worried that you’d rather have something more flexible and on the breezy side, and less… sheep kevlar. Grab one of the J. Crew Italian Linen blazers while you can. You can wear linen year round. Especially if it’s fully lined in Bemberg like these are. Great weight to these suckers.

UPDATE: These disappeared fast. There were more than a few sizes as of yesterday (they were first mentioned on Monday). Meanwhile, there’s this wide herringbone linen number for $224.

 

And as always: Check your local thrift stores

thrifty blazer

Some areas are complete duds when it comes to finding, uh, “duds” that are wearable with some alterations… yet other locations are complete gold mines. Skip the poly jackets and dated colors and details (i.e. mega low-slung button stances, monster lapels, etc…) Just look for basic, all wool or cotton jackets. Make sure they don’t smell. Try them on. Look for damage. You never know what you might find. For more guidance, it’s hard to get more extensive and complete than Put This On’s guide to thrifting.

What else? Have any other blazers/sportcoats on your radar for the fall? Leave it all below.

17 Sep 21:22

4 of the most confounding men’s style trends of fall 2013

by Joe

There is no evolution in style without risk. If it wasn’t for someone taking a chance at looking goofy, we’d still be walking around in tri-corner hats. But there’s a fine line between style evolution, and a trend for trend’s sake. Here are four from this season that could very well qualify as the latter. Of course, just about anything can be pulled off by the right person. Leave your additions and thoughts on these four in the comments section.

 

#1. Furry or fuzzy Collars on Outerwear

fuzzy collars with topman

Claiborne Faux Fur Collar Peacoat – $79.99 ($100) , Topman – $400.00

What level of pimposity does one need to naturally project in order to pull off a fuzzy or furry collar? The Claiborne is a pure embodiment of the Ron Johnson too-much-too-soon misstep that helped lead to his ouster. Stumbled across it in person the other day at a brick & mortar. There was a 70-something, weathered, farmer type digging around for a new winter jacket. We were in the same general vicinity and just having that jacket there made me want to apologize to him for our generation.

 

#2. Camouflage everything

camo time

Banana Republic Silk Tie – $69.50, Macy’s M151 Jacket – $139.50, Suitsupply Monk – $259

We in the rank and file don’t express our gratitude to those serving in the military nearly enough. Now we dopes in civilian life have to go and suck the life out of something as basic and utilitarian as camouflage? Was it because the military went digital? Do we blame Wooster?

 

#3. Mixed Media Garments

mixed media

Mixed Media Blazer – not yet released (drat) | Phillip Lim for Target Button Down – $29.99

Franken blazers. Shirts that look like they’ve gone through back alley sleeve transplants. Bonus points if you actually work another trend, like camo, into this one.

 

#4. Denim Blazers

denim blazers

Claiborne – $59.99 ($80), Lands’ End Canvas – $139.00

Most of us have been waiting all summer to get back to wearing jeans. So wearing another piece of denim up top is most likely a no-go. There’s the Canadian Tuxedo, so would jeans and a denim blazer equal the Canadian smart-casual? (With all apologies to the Canadian readership…) A lighterweight chambray might be one thing, but a thicker denim seems odd.

Feel free to explain/defend the above four in the comments. Also, what else have you been seeing in stores that you just don’t quite… get? Varsity Jackets? Waistcoats? Piped blazers? Kiltie loafers? Leave it all below. Top Photo Credit: Here and Here

17 Sep 21:19

Birra Fresca

by Oh Beautiful Beer

Birra Fresca, a palate smacking cucumber mint IPA, is the latest addition to R&B Brewing’s family of hand-crafted beers design by Saint Bernadine Mission Communications Inc. Strong, yet strangely refreshing, this beer’s cucumber and mint notes inspired the fresh summer colours and cues, while the beer’s 6% heft required a deep comfortable chair.

Like other R&B Brewing beers, the design language is inspired by R&B’s resolutely hand crafted product — as such, every element on the packaging is rendered by hand, including the bar code. Key brand story elements, hand rendered in expressive type, and additional varietal information, like IBU scale, boil information, aging temperature, hop and barley type and mix all support R&B’s independent, craft positioning.
— Saint Bernadine

Birra Fresca

Birra Fresca

Birra Fresca

Birra Fresca

Birra Fresca

Birra Fresca

17 Sep 12:55

The Necktie Movie Guy

by claptonpond

The Man From The Hornet writes…

 

Meet my new best online friend. He’s called Alex Krasny and he makes YouTube videos on how to tie neckties.

 

He’s even invented his own knot…

 

We’re very fond of his deadpan delivery, that he calls his audience “friends” (nice touch, that) and his use of words such as “caution” (tying neckties is a serious business).

 

This is what the internet was invented for. Enjoy.

 


www.hornetskensington.co.uk

Hornets Hire & Stock Catalogue

 


06 Sep 17:26

How cranberries are harvested

by Jason Kottke

This video seems like it was made specifically for kottke.org. In the first half of it, you learn how cranberries are harvested. In the second half, there's gorgeous HD slo-mo footage of wakeskating through a cranberry bog.

And with a Tycho soundtrack no less...it's all too perfect. (via ★interesting)

Tags: food   how to   slow motion   sports   video
06 Sep 16:36

No Name / Sans Nom Products

Contributed by Joe Clark via Flickr



Source: http://www.flickr.com. Uploaded and tagged with “helvetica” by “Joe Clark” on Flickr. License: All Rights Reserved.

Box Vox:

Loblaw’s “generic” No Name® brand, was launched in 1978, but not officially registered as a Canadian trademark until 1985. One of the most well-known generic brands, its distinctive yellow and black packaging was originally designed by Don Watts.

Wikipedia:

In keeping with the generic nature of the product line, the original No Name packaging showed no branding — only text with a basic product description and name, such as “freshly ground coffee” or “fabric softener,” on a solid background. Years later, a “No Name” registered trademark appeared. While other generic lines presented their packaging as black on white, Toronto designer Don Watt chose black, boldface text in a Helvetica font, all lower case, on a bright yellow background, as a means of attracting the attention of shoppers.

More in Joe Clark’s “generic” set and photos from a 2010 Don Watt exhibit.

See also Sainsbury’s.




Source: http://www.flickr.com. Uploaded and tagged with “helvetica” by “Joe Clark” on Flickr. License: All Rights Reserved.


Source: http://www.flickr.com. Uploaded and tagged with “helvetica” by “Joe Clark” on Flickr. License: All Rights Reserved.


Source: http://www.flickr.com. Uploaded and tagged with “helvetica” by “Joe Clark” on Flickr. License: All Rights Reserved.


Source: http://www.flickr.com. Uploaded and tagged with “helvetica” by “Joe Clark” on Flickr. License: All Rights Reserved.


Source: http://www.flickr.com. Photo by “Light Collector” on Flickr. License: All Rights Reserved.


Source: https://en.wikipedia.org. Photo: Stephen Coles. Photo by Diclements via Wikipedia. License: Creative Commons Attribution Non-commercial Share Alike.


Source: http://www.beachpackagingdesign.com. License: All Rights Reserved.


Source: http://www.charlottepantry.com. License: All Rights Reserved.


Source: http://www.charlottepantry.com. License: All Rights Reserved.

06 Sep 13:14

The Problem with Labeling Pete posted a great excerpt yesterday...

by derekguypto


The Problem with Labeling

Pete posted a great excerpt yesterday from a recent New Yorker article about the relevancy of country-of-origin labels in the modern world. For clothing production these days, wool can be sourced from Australia, and then sent to Scotland to be spun into yarn, Ireland to be woven into fabric, and Italy to be “finished.” And that’s just for the fabric. The trimmings, such as felts and canvassing, can have their own global production chains, and all these “ingredients” can then be sent to one country (say, China) for most of the assembly, and then another (say, England) for the rest. The companies who do such work, by the way, can be Japanese-owned British firms with Chinese workers. In the end, does a “made in England” label really mean anything?

Consumer Prejudices

The article made me think of a rich area of research about the effects of such labels on consumer behavior. The most famous (or at least the most cited) study was done in 1965 by Robert Schooler. He took a sample of 200 students and had them evaluate several products, all of which were identical except in one way: they had (fictitious) country-of-origin labels. So, for example, some of the things he had students evaluate were swatches of the same beige fabric - medium weave, 80% cotton and 20% linen. Again, all identical, except one was labeled “made in Guatemala,” one “made in Mexico,” one “made in Costa Rica,” and one “made in El Salvador.” As you can probably guess, the students were biased by their own prejudices and saw differences in the fabrics that weren’t actually there. In this case, fabrics believed to be from Guatemala and Mexico were evaluated as being higher-quality than those from Costa Rica and El Salvador.

Schooler’s study launched an entire field of research, one that has been on-going for over forty years. All basically confirm his finding: that country-of-origin labels often bias people’s evaluations and are loaded with national stereotypes. There have been some refinements to the theory (mostly on issues regarding direction, strength, and generalizability of such biases), but they more or less say the same thing. Folks interested in reading more about these findings can check out this literature review by Keith Dinnie.

Do Country-of-Origin Labels Tell You About Quality?

Here’s the problem: many stereotypes have at their center a kernel of truth. That’s what makes them so socially “sticky.” It’s true that there are a ton of low-quality clothes produced in China and that many high-end ones produced in Western Europe. At the same time, I have many Chinese-made garments - such as sweaters by RRL and Phillip Lim, as well as outerwear by Nanamica - that are much nicer than many Western-European-made things. Country-of-origin tags are sometimes helpful in determining quality, but one shouldn’t read the whole story off of a label (especially when the garment is right there in front of you, and you can look at much more real and reliable dimensions of quality). Just because something was made in China doesn’t automatically mean that it’s bad (or, frankly, if it says it was made in Italy, it doesn’t mean it wasn’t made in China). 

The cynic in me wants to believe that such labels are just ways retailers seek a competitive edge and manufacturers look for protection. Maybe so, maybe not, but with the kind of highly-fragmented, complex, global production chains that exist nowadays,* the New Yorker article asks a good question: do these labels even mean anything anymore?

* The New York Times had a good article many years ago about the fragmented production chain involved in the manufacturing of iPods, and it talks about which parts of the chain produce the most value (thus, are most worth trying to keep domestic). Spoiler alert: it’s not manufacturing.

(Note, this controversial post obviously doesn’t reflect the opinion of Jesse or Pete, just my own. For what it’s worth, however, it was made in America.)

05 Sep 13:19

Brown In Town: Allen Edmonds’ New Cordovan Web Exclusive

by Christian

Cordovan Classics_Webgem

Hot on the Wisconsin-made heels of its new apparel collection, Allen Edmonds has just announced a new “webgem” offer. A limited number of shell cordovan shoes are being offered in a handsome shade of dark brown.

There are four styles available, all of which are priced at $545.

With a shade of brown this good-looking, you’ll surely want to wear the shoes in town. Speaking of which, we’ll return to the discussion of menswear rules just as soon as the spate of breaking news subsides. — CC

03 Sep 14:38

Plan B

by Greg Ross

http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Lauren_Bacall_with_Vice_President_Truman.jpg

As a boy Harry Truman practiced piano for two hours a day. “My choice early in life was either to be a piano player in a whorehouse or a politician,” he said later. “And to tell the truth, there’s hardly any difference.”

At age 12 he attended a concert by Paderewski. “And I was studying the Minuet by Paderewski. And when he got through with his concert — which was a wonder — he played that Chopin A-Flat Waltz, Opus 42, which has always been a favorite of mine. And he played the waltz rendition of the Blue Danube, and so on.”

“When we went back behind the scenes, [my teacher] took me with her, and it almost scared me to death. She told him I didn’t know how to make ‘the turn’ in the minuet, and he said, ‘Sit down,’ and he showed me how to do it. I played it at Postdam for old Stalin. I think he was quite impressed.”

He gave up piano because “it was a sissy thing to do. So I just stopped. And it was probably all for the best. I wouldn’t ever have been really first-rate. A good music-hall piano player is about the best I’d have ever been. So I went into politics and became president of the United States.”

28 Aug 14:09

A Visit to Walker Slater in Edinburgh, Scotland While I was in...

by jessethorn














A Visit to Walker Slater in Edinburgh, Scotland

While I was in Edinburgh this past week, performing in the Fringe Festival, I took the opportunity to stop by Walker Slater, the town’s premier menswear shop. Endinburgh’s a beautiful, gloomy town, hung with fog even at the height of summer, and Walker Slater is perfectly suited for its environment. Inside are warm woolens, worn leather and plenty of tweed.

The shop began in the 1980s featuring more standard fashion fare, but the owners quickly found that despite Edinburgh’s status as one of the cultural capitals of Scotland, which itself is the world’s capital of tweed, there wasn’t much decent tweed to be found. They experimented with tweed trousers, sold them quickly, and within a few years they were off to the races, leaving t-shirts behind in favor of breeks and braces.

The shop offers one of the widest selections of tweeds I’ve had the chance to see in a clothing store. There are serious, sedate tweed suits and bold, outrageous ones. Something for every occasion. A handsome and dandyish Kenyan man who worked for the United Nations was placing a made-to-measure order when I stopped in. One sportcoat relatively serious, one with a blinding red overcheck. Both looked like they’d come out looking tremendous.

One of the things that impressed me most about Walker Slater was the price point. These weren’t Chester Barrie-made supersuits, but the quality was solid, and the prices were quite reasonable. I was lusting after a £125 shirt jacket, and sportcoats ran £390. I also had to remind myself that I lived in Los Angeles to help restrain myself from grabbing a whole stack of their lovely moleskin trousers, including some in ivory white.

I had a bit of a chat with the shop manager, and he told me that the owners really prioritize keeping the retail prices reasonable, which I always appreciate. They’re also, of course, selling own-brand merchandise without a middleman. Most trousers and shirts are made in the UK, and most of the tailored clothes are made in a British-owned factory in Portugal.

The shop offers a line of very traditional tweeds, with full-cut trousers and strong shoulders. They also offer a more contemporary style, and both are executed well. I was particularly impressed with their modest collection of casual clothes, which was classic but not at all fusty. Think E. Tautz or Nigel Cabourn. They even have a lovely ladies’ shop a few doors down.

It was a real pleasure, amidst the hubbub of the Fringe, to stumble into this home-grown gem. If you’re in Edinburgh (or London, where they have another outpost), it’s very much worth stopping in.

Walker Slater, 16-20 Victoria St, Edinburgh & 845 Fulham Road, London
(and online at WalkerSlater.com)

(Photos by Jesse Thorn)

28 Aug 14:08

The Best Under $200 Suit of 2013

by Joe

Claiborne Charcoal Slim Suit Separates – $119.99 w/ RMN20 ($360)

NOTE: Found this in-store. Online there are two very similar options, and there’s conflicting info on what this one is made out of (wool vs poly). When you click on the jacket it says wool. When you’re viewing the tandem it says poly.

Code is good for 15% off or 20% off $100+ through 8/31. Thanks to Brandon in the comments.

If the Ron Johnson + Nick Wooster influence over JC Penny fades to black in the next 6 months, then it just might be the improved Claiborne… not jcp, not the revamped Stafford, not Stafford Prep, that gets missed the most.

Ever since the J. Crew Factory Thompson suit separates started to spend the vast majority of time north of $200, the hunt has been on around these parts for another ultra-affordable, but still sharp wool suit. Think: under $200 and widely available. Now, as recent as last year, shopping for a suit at JC Penney meant synthetic fabrics, enormous shoulder pads, low armholes, boxy silhouettes, and bad button stances.

This jacket and matching pair of pants are the exact opposite of all of that.

Clairborne tracks getting jiggy with it literallyEat your heart out Flatley. Shown: 38R jacket + 32×30 pant.

Skip by the Stafford (big shoulders) and JF J Ferrar (usually synthetic) suits and hunt around for these. They’re a little hard to find, but finding one to try on is worth it if you’re on a serious budget, and you need a suit that you can be taken seriously in.

The all wool exterior fabric feels fine in your hands. Not luxurious, but not super-rough either. For the price, the quality of the fabric seems solid. But the color isn’t solid… and that’s a plus. There’s a very small amount of color variation going on here. It’s a dark charcoal for sure, with very, very small amounts of lighter grey flecked in. That gives the fabric some depth that you’ll never find in a synthetic fabric suit. Those can look oddly flat. Like they’re assembled from painted pieces of plastic.

The 100% wool jacket is lined in 100% acetate. It won’t be super breezy, but acetate seems to breathe a little better than straight poly. The lining doesn’t catch or pull when you put it on, and the jacket it settles in nicely on your torso. It’s not stiff like a lot of other fused jackets. Canvassed it ain’t, but it’s not like wearing plywood either.

Clairborne SuitNot perfect, but awfully good for $150.

The shoulder pads could be a little smaller, but they’re not noticeable by any stretch. If only the Hilfiger Trim Fit suits at Macy’s could have shoulder pads this reasonable. These are made in Mexico, and the overall feel of the construction of the jacket is nice and solid. More-so than a suit from, say, Express.

The buttons are plastic, but they’re thick and have a nice matte, faux-horn swirl to them. The sleeve buttons are not only non-functioning, they also lack that annoying faux-button hole accent stitching. That makes for easier tailoring. Can’t lose the sleeve buttons entirely, but points to the design department for killing off that stitching.

Clairborne suit fabric and buttonsGood fabric, great buttons, easy tailoring.

Double vents on the jacket, a slim 2.5″ lapel, and while the the armholes could be higher, they’re not terrible. Jacket fits true to size through the chest and shoulders.  If you’re inbetween sizes, strongly consider sizing UP. They fit trim off the rack but run a touch short in the tail. Plenty of guys might be able to get away without any tailoring off the rack.

Been a long time since you could say that about a suit bought from JC Penney.

The only drawback is the lack of colors or patterns. If grey is the new black, then these come in the Model T color wheel. You can have one of these suits in any color… so long as it’s grey.

Clairborne on the tracks

Again, there are two very similar options of these on the web. Here, and here. One says it’s all poly, but then just the jacket claims to be wool. Ships free. Might want to find it in person first.

20 Aug 14:57

The Artist/ Rebel/ Dandy: Men of Fashion Exhibit at RISD Within...

by derekguypto



Oscar Wilde's Shirt


Lounge suits worn by the Duke of Windsor (left) and Dr. André Churchwell (right)


Banyan belonging to George, Prince of Wales (circa 1780s)


Fred Astaire's Anderson & Sheppard tuxedo

The Artist/ Rebel/ Dandy: Men of Fashion Exhibit at RISD

Within the space of a few years at the turn of the 19th century, Beau Brummell revolutionized men’s fashion, replacing draped and colorful silk finery with simple, dark wool garments tailored close to the body. He found elegance in austerity, emphasizing fit and cleanliness over luxury and excess. The new style brought together the costume of horseback riding and the military to create a new urban fashion, and vaulted Brummell to personal celebrity. Brummell, and the legions of admirers and imitators that followed every fold of his cravat, became known as “dandies.” The Rhode Island School of Design’s recent Artist, Rebel, Dandy exhibit explored the history of the dandy, starting with the Brummell’s elegant simplicity and finally exploding into the extravagances that the word “dandy” calls to mind today.

Dandies aspired to “poise, a hint of disdain, even a touch of mischief,” as Hugo Vickers Muses describes the style of early 20th century dandy Cecil Beaton in the exhibit book. Others saw only farce. The exhibit includes caricatures from Brummell’s time that show dandies corsetting and cinching themselves into fainting spells to achieve the proper silhouette. But by the last half of the 19th century, Brummell’s revolution had codified into a set of rules that no proper English gentleman would dare violate.

The mid-to-late-20th century pieces in the exhibit show dandyism aging gracefully, experimenting with tweed suits from Luciano Barbera and the late RISD professor Richard Merkin, and plaid suits from with Italian industrialist Gianni Agnelli and Tennessee doctor André Churchwell. But by the time we reach the outfits of modern dandies, Brummell’s elegant simplicity has been completely inverted. The denouement is Sebastian Horsley’s red velvet suit, complete with matching two-foot-tall red velvet topper and bedazzled jumbo-knotted tie. Whereas Brummell proclaimed, “If John Bull turns around to look at you, you are not well dressed…,” Horsley warns that “the real dandy wants to make people look, be shocked by, and even a little scared by the subversion which his clothes stand for.”

Perhaps we should mourn that Scott Schuman considers the dandy “more obvious, more flamboyant, almost aggressive” compared to the “quiet seduction” of Luciano Barbera, whom he profiles in the exhibit book. It wasn’t meant to be this way. But sadder still is the idea that clothes so completely make the man. Horlsey believed that “dandyism is a lie which reveals the truth and the truth is we are who we pretend to be.” Clothes are a powerful vehicle for self-expression and self-discovery, as well as a sensual pleasure. At their best, they are our cover letter to the world. At their worst, they are a prosthesis, a false self to replace the one we don’t know or don’t like.

Though “dandy” may have become be a dirty word, male interest in clothing and style is currently surging. Artist, Rebel, Dandy shows all the beauty, elegance, and absurdity that could result.

Guest post by our friend David Isle, who authors the blog Ivory Tower Style. Photos from the Rhode Island School of Design.

20 Aug 14:56

General Knot | Fall ’13

by Jeremiah Simmons

GK GK-00504-fold_grande GK-00530-fold_grande GK-00746-fold_grande GK-00755-fold_grande GK-00762-fold_grande

As I’ve said before, one of the great ironies of my life is living in Florida and my favorite season being autumn. Having spent my youth in Tennessee, I am always drawn to the fall foliage, the crisp autumn air and more than anything else, the rich tones and textures that come with autumnal attire. And while I’ve learned to go light on the layering here in a tropical climate, I’ve grown in my ability to shift from summertime shades to fall fabrics and hues in moderate yet meaningful ways. One of those is with the use of accessories, which can signify seasonal change while remaining breathable, keeping a man well ventilated.

And while global warming continues to heat things up for all of us, make good use of items like your pocket square and/or neckwear to herald the changing of the seasons. I can think of none better than the latest from General Knot.

From their founder, Andrew, “Our palette for this early Fall 13 group is warmer and more earthy than the clear, bright pop colors of summer. Tan, camel and olive set the tone while hints of old rose, goldenrod and deep French blue make for interesting accents. This collection is both jean friendly and dress appropriate. Patterns range from menswear inspired suiting checks to vegetable dye paisleys, micro dots and exploded florals. We like the mix of scale in the prints and see micro to large scale patterns as a trend going forward into the fall season.”

Take a look at the full fall offering at General Knot.

- DJS


16 Aug 13:55

Should You Use Sole Protectors? A long time ago, when I first...

by derekguypto
Nickfabiani

Just for the picture. It appears Obama is a modern day Adlai.

Wait.



Should You Use Sole Protectors?

A long time ago, when I first started buying high-quality footwear, I used to have my cobbler put sole protectors on all my shoes. Sole protectors are thin rubber sheets that can be put at the bottom of soles. They protect your shoes from wear and thus limit the number of times you need to have them resoled. 

I did this for years until I realized that it wasn’t saving me much money. Having protectors put on usually costs about $25. Having soles replaced usually costs about $50-75. I found that protectors lasted about a year and a half, while leather soles could go for about three to four years. Obviously, your mileage may vary, as a lot will depend on how often you wear your shoes and what type of surfaces you walk on, but from my experience, the savings were minimal, if there were any at all.

So, what are the reasons why someone might want to get sole protectors? Well, for one, they arguably provide slightly more traction, especially on smooth, indoor floors. They could also be more economical if you don’t have someone in your area who can resole your shoes for a reasonable fee. If you send your shoes back to the original manufacturer, or to certain shoe refurbishing shops, you can pay anywhere from  $125 to $300. That typically comes with more service - your uppers can be refurbished, and you might get a free pair of shoe trees or something - but if you don’t need those things, you’re effectively paying ~$125-300 for a resoling. That’s significantly more than the $50-75 a local cobbler might charge (assuming you have someone you trust).

Shoes can also be resoled only so many times, and every resoling comes with a bit of risk. Almost all welted shoes, for example, are made with a linen holdfast called “gemming.” Some experts have noted that this can rip during a resole, and once this happens, the gemming can’t be easily repositioned, which means you shoes will walk out of shape. Thus, the fewer resolings you need to do, the better.

The downside is that sole protectors are a bit ugly, especially the ones made by Topy. Admittedly, nobody ever really sees the bottom of your shoes, but sometimes they do if you cross your legs (or become the President of the United States and put your feet on the table, right in front of a photographer, as shown above). Plus, if your sole protectors are not correctly applied, moisture can seep in, which in turn can cause rotting. Certain companies, such as Edward Green, also claim that rubber protectors prevent your soles from “breathing,” which in turn can shorten their life. (I’m skeptical of this, but you can take it for what it’s worth.)

In the end, whether or not you should add sole protectors is up to you, and a lot will depend on various factors, but at least now you know what are some of the factors you should consider. The value is not obvious. 

15 Aug 13:40

How American Rich Kids Bought Their Way Into the British Elite

by Angela Serratore

From “The Marlborough-Vanderbilt Wedding,” Chicago Tribune, 1895.

Consuelo Vanderbilt’s wedding day had finally arrived, and all of New York (and then some) was aflutter. Crowds lined Fifth Avenue, hoping to catch a glimpse of the bride on her way to St. Thomas Episcopal Church. She was quite possibly the most celebrated of all the young heiresses who captured the attention of Gilded Age Americans, and her wedding was the peak of a trend that had, in recent decades, taken the world by storm: American girls, born to the richest men in the country, marrying British gentlemen with titles and centuries of noble lineage behind them.

Consuelo’s catch was considered one of the finest—Charles Spencer-Churchill, the future Ninth Duke of Marlborough, who stood to become lord of Blenheim, an estate second only to Buckingham Palace. The bride, already considered American royalty, would become a duchess, bestowing upon her family the highest social standing (for which her mother, Alva, who was often snubbed by “old New York”, and who viewed her husband’s money as gauche, was desperate).

And yet on November 6, 1895, the bride was less than thrilled:

I spent the morning of my wedding day in tears and alone; no one came near me. A footman had been posted at the door of my apartment and not even my governess was admitted. Like an automaton I donned the lovely lingerie with its real lace and the white silk stockings and shoes…. I felt cold and numb as I went down to meet my father and the bridesmaids who were waiting for me.

Consuelo Vanderbilt. Wikimedia Commons.

Conseulo Vanderbilt loved another—a rich other, but an American without a title or an English country estate. But her marriage to Marlborough was non-negotiable.

Beginning in the 1870s, American girls with money had been flocking to Britain in droves, ready to exchange railroad cash and mining stocks for the right to call themselves “Lady.” (“Downton Abbey” fans will surely recognize Cora Crawley as one of their ilk.) The appeal was clear. The heiresses, unlikely to be admitted to the highest ranks of New York society, would gain entry to an elite social world, and who needed Mrs. Astor’s drawing room when she could keep company with HRH the Prince of Wales?

And Britain’s upper crust would get a much-needed infusion of cash. For a British gentleman to work for money was unthinkable. But by the end of the 19th century it cost more to run a country estate than the estate could make for itself, and the great houses slid dangerously close to disrepair. By marrying a Vanderbilt or a Whitney, a future duke could ensure not just the survival of his family’s land and name, but also a life enhanced by easy access to money, something he certainly wouldn’t get if he married a peer.

By 1895 (a year in which America sent nine daughters to the peerage), the formula had coalesced into a relatively simple process. Mothers and their daughters would visit London for the social season, relying upon friends and relatives who had already made British matches to make introductions to eligible young men. Depending on the fortunes of the girl in question, several offers would be fielded, and her parents, weighing social and financial investments and returns, would make a selection. So such marriages were basically transactional alliances. Even in 1874, the union of Jennie Jerome and Lord Randolph Churchill—which would give the Western world both Winston Churchill and a great deal to talk about—would reflect the beginnings of the trend.

Born in Brooklyn in 1854, dark-haired Jennie captivated Lord Randolph, son of the seventh Duke of Marlborough, with startling suddenness. Within three days of their initial meeting, Jennie and Randolph announced their plans to marry.

Jennie Jerome in the 1880s. Wikimedia Commons.

Neither the Jeromes nor the Randolphs were thrilled. Jennie’s parents thought Lord Randolph, in proposing to their daughter before consulting with them, was in serious breach of etiquette. Not to mention that, as a second son, he wouldn’t inherit his father’s title.

The Randolphs were aghast at their son’s choice of an American bride from a family no one knew anything about, and the more they learned about the Jeromes, the more they disliked the match. Leonard Jerome, Jennie’s father, was a flamboyant speculator in stocks and a noted chaser of comely opera singers; her mother, Clara, was occasionally accused of having Iroquois ancestry. Despite owning property in the right part of town (the Jerome Mansion stood at the corner of 26th Street and Madison Avenue), the Jeromes were not considered worthy of the upper echelons of New York society.

Jerome, the duke wrote to his lovestruck son, “drives about six and eight horses in New York (one may take this as an indication of what the man is).” Despite his daughter’s charms, he was a person “no man in his sense could think respectable.”

The Jeromes, though, had two advantages that could not be overlooked. The first was a personal endorsement of the match by Edward, Prince of Wales, who had met Jennie in social settings and liked her. The second was pecuniary.

Randolph had no money of his own, and the measly allowance his father provided would not have been enough for the couple to live on. The Jeromes would be aligning themselves with one of Britain’s most noble families, and for that they were expected to pay handsomely. Leonard Jerome came up with 50,000 pounds plus a 1,000-pound yearly allowance for Jennie (something unheard-of in British families), and the deal was done. In April 1874, Jennie and Randolph were married.

Seven months after the wedding, Lady Randolph gave birth to Winston. (She claimed a fall had induced premature labor, but the baby appeared full-term.) A second followed in 1880, though motherhood did not seem to have slowed Jennie’s quest for excitement. She and Randolph both had extramarital affairs (she, it was rumored, with the Prince of Wales, even as she remained close with Princess Alexandra, his wife), though they remained married until his death, in 1895. (The jury is still out on whether he died of syphilis contracted during extracurricular activities.)

Jennie came to have great influence over the political careers of her husband and son, and remained a force on the London social scene into the 20th century. She also came to represent what the British saw as the most vital kind of American girl—bright, intelligent and a bit headstrong. When Jennie’s essay “American Women in Europe” was published in the Pall Mall Magazine in 1903, she asserted, “the old prejudices against them, which mostly arose out of ignorance, have been removed, and American women are now appreciated as they deserve.” They were beautiful (Jennie Chamberlain, an heiress from Cleveland, so charmed the Prince of Wales he followed her from house party to house party during one mid-1880s social season), well-dressed (they could afford it) and worldly in a way their English counterparts were not. As Jennie Churchill wrote:

They are better read, and have generally traveled before they make their appearance in the world. Whereas a whole family of English girls are educated by a more or less incompetent governess, the American girl in the same condition of life will begin from her earliest age with the best professors…by the time she is eighteen she is able to assert her views on most things and her independence in all.

Despite their joie de vivre, not all American brides were as adaptable as Lady Randolph, and their marriages not as successful. The Marlborough-Vanderbilt match, for one, was significantly less harmonious.

Alva Vanderbilt determined early on that only a noble husband would be worthy of her daughter. She and a team of governesses managed Consuelo’s upbringing in New York and Newport, Rhode Island, where the heiress studied French, music and other disciplines a lady might need as a European hostess. Consuelo was meek, deferring to her mother on most matters. Before the wedding she was described by the Chicago Tribune as having “ all the naive frankness of a child,” an affectation that may have endeared her to the American public, but would be no match for the heir to Blenheim. After they met at the home of Minnie Paget (nee Stevens), a minor American heiress who acted as a sort of matchmaker, Alva went to work ensuring the union would take place. It was settled that the groom would receive $2.5 million in shares of stock owned by Consuelo’s father, who would also agree to guarantee the yearly sum of $100,000 to each half of the couple.

The Duke and Duchess of Marlborough with their children. Painted by John Singer Sargent in 1905. From To Marry an English Lord.

“Sunny,” as the future duke was known, made little effort to hide his reasons for favoring an American bride; Blenheim Palace needed repairs his family couldn’t afford. After the wedding (it is rumored that in the carriage ride after the ceremony, Sunny coldly informed Consuelo of the lover waiting for him in England) he went about spending her dowry restoring the family seat to glory.

Consuelo, for her part, was less than pleased with her new home:

Our own rooms, which faced east, were being redecorated, so we spent the first three months in a cold and cheerless apartment looking north. They were ugly, depressing rooms, devoid of the beauty and comforts my own home had provided.

Unlike her previous American residences, Blenheim lacked indoor plumbing, and many of the rooms were drafty. Once installed there, some 65 miles from London, Consuelo would travel little until the next social season (she was lucky, though; some American brides wound up on estates in the North of England, where getting to the capital more than once a year was unthinkable), and in the drawing room she was forced to answer questions nightly about whether she was yet in the family way. If Consuelo failed to produce an heir, the dukedom would pass to Winston Churchill (Lady Randolph’s son), something the current duchess of Marlborough was loath to see happen.

Consuelo and Sunny’s relationship deteriorated. He returned to the womanizing he’d done before their marriage, and she looked elsewhere for comfort, engaging for a time in a relationship with her husband’s cousin, the Hon. Reginald Fellowes. These dalliances were not enough to keep the Marlboroughs happy, and in 1906, barely ten years after their wedding, they separated, divorcing in 1921.

If the Vanderbilt-Marlborough marriage was the high point of the American ascent to the noble realm, it was also the beginning of a backlash. Sunny’s courtship of Consuelo was seen as almost mercenary, and the men who followed him in the hunt for an heiress looked even worse. When Alice Thaw, daughter of a Pittsburgh railroad magnate, agreed to marry the earl of Yarmouth in 1903, she hardly could have guessed that on the morning of her wedding the groom would be arrested for failure to pay outstanding debts and that she would have to wait at the church while her intended and her father renegotiated her dowry.

“The Yarmouth-Thaw Wedding Pictures,” the Pittsburgh Press, 1903.

American fathers, too, began to doubt the necessity of having a duchess in the family. Frank Work, whose daughter Frances’ marriage to James Burke Roche, Baron Fermoy, would end with Frances accusing her husband of desertion, went on record as strongly opposing the practice of trading hard-earned money for louche husbands with impressive names. His 1911 obituary, printed in the New-York Tribune, quoted from an earlier interview:

It’s time this international marrying came to a stop for our American girls are ruining our own country by it. As fast as our honorable, hard working men can earn this money their daughters take it and toss it across the ocean. And for what? For the the purpose of a title and the privilege of paying the debts of so-called noblemen! If I had anything to say about it, I’d make an international marriage a hanging offense.

Ideal marriages, wealthy fathers thought, were like the 1896 match between Gertrude Vanderbilt and Henry Payne Whitney, wherein American money stayed put and even had the chance to multiply.

Much of the Gilded Age matchmaking that united the two nations occurred under the reign of Edward VII, who as Prince of Wales encouraged social merriment equal to that of his mother Queen Victoria’s sobriety. When Edward died, in 1910, the throne passed to his son George V, who, along with his British-bred wife, Mary, curtailed the excess that had characterized his father’s leadership of Britain’s leisure class. Nightly private parties throughout a social season began to seem vulgar as Europe moved closer to war. In New York, Newport and Chicago, the likes of Caroline Astor began to cede social power to the nouveaux riche they had once snubbed, and as the American economy became the domain of men like J.P. Morgan and Andrew Carnegie, their daughters had little reason to spend their inheritances restoring 17th-century castles when they could stay home and be treated as royalty by the press and the public.

Though American girls quit looking for husbands across the pond, the influence of the ones who did become duchesses and baronesses left an indelible mark on the British landscape. American women financed the repair and restoration of once-shabby estates like Blenheim and Wrotham Park, backed political ambitions (Mary Leiter, a department-store heiress from Chicago, used her father’s money to help her husband, George Curzon, become the viceroy of India), and, in the case of Jennie Jerome, gave birth to children who would lead Britain squarely into the 20th century.

The women, too, were changed. Jennie Jerome, after her husband’s death, married two more Englishmen (one of them younger than her son Winston), and other American girls who divorced or outlived their first husbands stayed on in their adoptive country, occasionally marrying other peers and tending to the political and marital careers of their children.

Consuelo Vanderbilt and Winston Churchill at Blenheim Palace, 1902. Wikimedia Commons.

After she divorced Sunny, Consuelo Vanderbilt married Lt. Jacques Balsan, a French balloonist and airplane pilot, and the two would remain together until his death in 1956, living primarily in a château 50 miles from Paris and, later, a massive Palm Beach estate Consuelo called Casa Alva, in honor of her mother.

Consuelo’s autobiography, The Glitter and the Gold, appeared in 1953 and detailed just how miserable she’d been as the Duchess of Marlborough. But perhaps, during her time as a peer of the realm, something about that life took hold of Consuelo and never quite let go. She died on Long Island in 1964, having asked her family to secure her a final resting place at Blenheim.

Sources:

Balsan, Consuelo, The Glitter and the Gold, 1953; Lady Randolph Churchill, “American Women in Europe,” Nash’s Pall Mall Magazine, 1903; DePew, Chauncey, Titled Americans 1890: A List of American Ladies Who Have Married Foreigners of Rank; MacColl, Gail, and Wallace, Carol McD., To Marry an English Lord, Workman Publishing, 1989; Sebba, Anne, American Jennie: The Remarkable Life of Lady Randolph Churchill, W.W. Norton & Company, 2007; Cannadine, David, The Rise and Fall of the British Aristocracy, Vintage, 1999; Lovell, Mary S., The Churchills, Little Brown, 2011; Stuart, Amanda Mackenzie, Consuelo and Alva Vanderbilt: The Story of a Daughter and Mother in the Gilded Age, Harper Perennial, 2005; “Frank Work Dead at 92”, New-York Tribune, 17 March 1911; “The Marriage of Marlborough and Vanderbilt,” Chicago Daily Tribune, 27 October 1895; “She is Now a Duchess,” New York Times, 7 November 1895.

15 Aug 13:40

Keepsake

by Greg Ross

https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:James_Garfield2_1882_Issue-5c.jpg

In 1881, as the nation was mourning James Garfield’s assassination, the following advertisement appeared in 200 newspapers:

I have secured the authorized steel engravings of the late President Garfield, executed by the United States Government, approved by the President of the United States, by Congress and by every member of the President’s family as the most faithful of all portraits of the President. It was executed by the Government’s most expert steel engravers, and I will send a copy from the original plate, in full colors approved by the Government, postpaid, for one dollar each.

Each reader who sent in a dollar received the promised engraving — on a 5¢ postage stamp.

15 Aug 12:46

The Illustrated Man: Midcentury Magazine Artist Joe Bowler

by Christian

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While performing a Google Image search for some random terminology recently, I came across an illustration that caught my eye. It turned out to be from an artist named Joe Bowler who made his living in the ’50s and ’60s doing advertising and magazine illustrations.

Quite a few have details that would interest us here, such as the guy above, with buckle-back chinos and rep-striped billfold.

Or this guy, wearing a 3/2 jacket with a tattersall shirt and what is likely a knit tie:

14. Bowler, Joe - Engagement, 1957

Here’s a pink oxford at sea:

Joe Bowler from Paul Mann-sm

And a class sweater:

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White tee, khakis and loafers:

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And something a bit more formal:

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Seersucker:

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This is from a Saturday Evening Post story called “The Beautiful Beatnik”:

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Bowler was born in New York in 1928 and currently resides in South Carolina. He has a website and is apparently available for portrait commissions. He might even make you look as good as these guys. — CC

12 Aug 13:54

Paul Newman & Joanne Woodward in Greenwich Village, 1960



Paul Newman & Joanne Woodward in Greenwich Village, 1960

06 Aug 13:05

Black Tie Outfitters: The J.Crew Ludlow Shop.

by Michael Williams

JCrew_Ludlow_tux_11

The Event: Wedding at the famed Four Seasons Restaurant in Manhattan.

Dress: Black Tie

The wedding was planned for a Saturday. On a Wednesday I realized that the attire was black tie and I do not own a tuxedo, at least one that I would be caught dead in. I needed to solve this problem, and do it quickly. This I don’t believe, is an isolated incident for men in the prime of wedding season.

Okay, tuxedo options, this is not going to be pretty. I could always rent a tux, right? I’m gonna look good –- that guy with the beard guarantees it, right? No way, I can’t go the Men’s Warehouse route. Too much disgusting fabric. Too painful. Anyway, the timing did not allow for renting a tux. Not even close. Damn-you planning ahead. Then I realized that the best option for me just a few blocks away at the J.Crew Ludlow Shop in TriBeCa. Boom. Game changer. Even Mr. Impossible Cool agrees.

JCrew_Ludlow_tux_08

I walked in on a Friday, tried on a few different options. Picked out a jacket, selected the perfect pants and shirt and was ready to go in just about an hour. The tuxedos are all part of the cultish Ludlow fit program meaning they are slim and have perfectly modern proportions. All of the Ludlow stuff is sold as separates, which makes things incredibly easy from a sizing perspective. The game changing factor of buying a suit or tux from the Ludlow range is the fact that if the jacket ($525) fits you off the rack (which it did for me), you can select the pants ($265) with the appropriate waist and inseam sizing and then basically walk away without any tailoring work necessary. This was exactly my experience at J.Crew and the Ludlow Shop, which enabled me to procrastinate at a very high level while at the same time being incredibly productive and extremely well-dressed for what turned out to be an amazing black tie wedding.

[J.CREW BLACK TIE SHOP]

JCrew_Ludlow_tux_07JCrew_Ludlow_tux_09

02 Aug 12:58

How to Shuck Oysters, Cook Mussels, and Boil Lobster: Recipes and Travel Tips Inspired by Prince Edward Island

by Matt Moore

These days, you’d be hard pressed to not find a restaurant menu listing one of my favorite dishes – P.E.I. mussels. Years ago, diners were often confused by the P.E.I. abbreviation, which is often the case on many-a-chef-driven menus. Over time, however, diners have come to learn that P.E.I. references one specific island where cold water mussels are sourced from crystal blue waters – making them some of the best and most accessible mussels in the world. That island is Prince Edward Island, Canada.

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In the same way California branded its wine regions or Wisconsin its cheese, Prince Edward Island has created a brand around both seafood and potatoes – with other industries including local island beef and craft beer not far behind. It should come as no surprise then that P.E.I. is always a top destination for chefs and food lovers alike.

Chefs – just like artists, writers, painters, and musicians – truly benefit from travel and experiencing different foods, cultures, and people. We discover new ingredients, techniques, and applications which allow us to transform and adapt our cooking styles to create unique and inspired dishes.

Fortunately, I’m able to combine much of my work with travel, and I’ve had the opportunity to visit this special island multiple times over the past few years. Since the island is a “foodie” paradise, I thought I would share some of my favorite recipes that are influenced by the bounty of fresh seafood found on the island, along with some travel tips should you have an opportunity to make a trip to P.E.I. yourself. Of course, one doesn’t have to visit or source their ingredients from this utopia to try out the recipes below. No matter where you source your seafood, the following techniques and recipes still apply.

How to Shuck an Oyster

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It doesn’t get any manlier than shucking and eating raw oysters on a fishing boat in the open water. Award-winning Chef Ross Munro of P.E.I. Culinary Adventures gives us the lowdown on how to shuck the perfect oyster, every time.

  1. Secure the top and bottom of the oyster on a towel against a hard surface.
  2. Insert an oyster knife into the ‘key’ or hinge – do not force pressure towards your hand – instead twist the knife to pop open the shell.
  3. Use the knife to remove the top and bottom abductor muscles, remove grit, and serve.

Steamed P.E.I. Mussels

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On the island, mussels are most often served as simply as possible. After all, you want to savor their delicate flavor without getting distracted by over-the-top seasonings or garnishes. Sure, you will find recipes finished in cream, topped with smoked bacon, or even laden in curry sauces – but I prefer letting these little guys speak for themselves. This is a great appetizer to whip up quickly in a single pot – just serve with an empty bowl so guests can discard their shells. A crusty bread is also a must for sopping up all the great juices! (Prep 5 mins, Cook 10 mins, Serves 4)

2 lbs P.E.I. Mussels
1 cup dry white wine
4 cloves garlic, minced
2 Tablespoons parsley, minced
Fresh lemon wedges, if desired

Bring all ingredients to a steady steam over medium-high heat in a 5-quart pot – keep covered. Steam for 5-8 minutes (or until mussels open). Remove from heat and serve.

P.E.I. Low Country Boil

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The following recipe is the perfect example of combining my love of Southern cuisine with fresh P.E.I. ingredients. In Louisiana, crawfish boils are a staple throughout spring and summer – a crowd-friendly dish which allows you to basically cook every ingredient together in a large pot. Dining is communal, as the large pot of ingredients is typically poured out on tables lined with newspapers, allowing diners to stand side-by-side, eating with their hands, and conversing over spicy food and cold beer. This recipe ups the ante by adding in fresh lobster. I prefer to boil the lobsters whole, dropping them into the pot head first to cook. If you feel it is more humane to kill the lobsters prior to boiling, simply use a sharp knife to quickly cut the top of the lobsters head where the lines in the shell form a big T. You can separate the claws and tails after cooking to allow diners to enjoy different parts of the lobster. (Prep 30 mins, Cook 45 mins, Serves 8–12)

5 lbs small red potatoes
5 lbs Vidalia (sweet) onions, quartered
3 lbs fresh yellow corn, shucked, and cut in half
2 lbs large button mushrooms
5 lbs smoked andouille sausage
5 lobsters, each 1-2 lbs in size
5 lbs large Shrimp, deveined, head and shell on
10 lbs large live crawfish

Seasonings:

5-6 bay leaves
1 cup kosher salt
1 cup paprika
½ cup cayenne pepper

2 heads of garlic
1 bunch of celery
3 lemons (halved)
½ cup black peppercorns
6 light beers
Creole seasoning blend

Fill a large 60-quart pot 2/3-full of water. Use seawater if you can or add a cup of salt if that’s not available. If you don’t have a big ol’ 60-quarter, you can fifth the recipe and use a 12-quart pot.

Add all seasonings into the pot. Crank up the heat with the lid on to quicken the process. Once the water comes to a boil, add potatoes and onions. After 5-10 minutes, add mushrooms and return to a slow boil. After 10 minutes add corn and sausage. Allow the water to come back to a strong boil for 1-2 minutes and add the lobster. Return to a slow boil. Immediately turn off the heat, add shrimp and crawfish, and cover the pot. Allow the pot to sit undisturbed for at least 10 minutes. Next, stir the pot to ensure that the crawfish are bright red in color and the shrimp are pink and firm. Note, at this point you can allow the boil to soak up more flavor/heat, by allowing it to rest. Drain the pot and pour out on a large table covered with newspapers. Season the boil with Creole seasoning. Have lemon slices and paper towels readily available.

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If you don’t have a big basket to drain the food, use a strainer.

If You Go to Prince Edward Island

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Overview: Prince Edward Island is located on Canada’s east coast – representing one of three Maritime Provinces. It is the smallest province in the nation, both in land area and population, and it is often referenced as the “Birthplace of Confederation” as it hosted the 1864 conference which led to the Canadian Confederation. It’s on Atlantic Time, which is one hour ahead of Eastern Standard Time.

When to go: Summer is the most popular time, as temperatures range from 55-85 degrees F. The island hosts several festivals during summer, and it’s also a top destination for vacationers seeking to soak up the sun on the beach. Fall ushers in Fall Flavours – a month-long food celebration without the summer crowds.

Getting there: There are non-stop daily flights into Charlottetown (YYG) through Toronto (YYZ), Halifax (YHZ), Ottawa (YOW), and Montreal (YUL) on Air Canada and WestJet. There is also seasonal service on Delta through New York (JFK).

Where to stay: The Great George, Hotel on Pownal, The Delta, The Holman Grand

Where to eatSims Corner Steakhouse (local island beef and seafood), Gahan House (local beers –  try a Beach Chair Lager and steamed P.E.I. mussels), Richards Fresh Seafood (fish and chips), Merchant Man Pub, Terre Rouge (seafood chowder and local charcuterie), Lot 30 (poached covehead lobster and pork belly)

Top Attractions:

P.E.I. Culinary Adventures – Former chef turned entrepreneur Ross Munro provides a hands-on expert guide via land and sea to the best food and purveyors on the island. Go behind the scenes to meet the farmers, fishers, and artisan producers who have turned this island into a foodie paradise. Top it all off with a top-notch meal prepared by Chef Ross himself.

Green Gables Heritage Place – Keep your wife or girlfriend happy by visiting the home which inspired the classic tale, Anne of Green Gables. Not so much of a destination for men – but your lady will allow you to do whatever you want (golf, eating, drinking, etc.) after allowing her to indulge in the actual fairytale land of her favorite childhood setting.

P.E.I. National Park of Canada – Take in the red sand beauty of the island beaches on this boardwalk trail towards Greenwich Beach. The trail stretches less than a mile, traversing across Bowley Pond and surrounded by dunes, blue water, and local wildlife.

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Rent a Bike – All that food beckons for a bit of exercise. Fortunately the capital city, Charlottetown, boasts bike-friendly streets bustling with restaurants and bars. Rent a bike in town to get around like an islander. For some peace and quiet, cruise along confederation landing park on the waterfront. For more, check out Gulf Shore Parkway’s bike path towards scenic Covehead Harbour.

Golf – In addition to food, the island is known for its abundance of lush golf courses throughout the province. P.E.I. is often considered Canada’s top destination for the sport. Again, take your lady to Green Gables on the first day, and you’ll have free reign to play as much golf as you’d like!

Fishing – From 1000+ lb bluefin tuna to mackerel, haddock, and halibut, to fly fishing for brook and rainbow trout – the island boasts undisturbed salt and freshwater environments sure to entice any angler.

    


02 Aug 12:57

H&M e-commerce goes live & Wolverine 1000 mile – The Thursday Handful

by Joe

Sales that deserve some attention heading into the weekend, or sometimes, a bit earlier. Might not be some massive once a year event, but still worth a look. Those are what make up these handfuls. Expect these things when necessary. Five of the better sales, one for each finger, are below. Included are a few picks worth pointing out.

 

J. Crew: Extra 40% off Sale items w/ STYLE40

JCrew Extra 40

The Picks: Bowery Slim in Indigo Dot – $64.80 ($128), Unconstructed Oxford Ludlow – $131.40 ($225), Bowery Classic in Microstripe Cotton – $23.99 ($88), Slim Cashmere V-Neck in Spearamint – $59.99 ($225), Ludlow 3-Button Suit Jacket + Pant – $374.99 ($650)

Yep, this sale is still going on. But they did add a few new items of note to the sale. Like extra pant sizes (even a slim option) that’ll match the 3-button ludlow suit. Careful though, that suit jacket is final sale, and so is a lot of other stuff in the sale section. No returns on those items. Code expires this Sunday, 8/4.

 

Need Supply Co.: Extra 30% off Sale w/ 30MORE

wolverine at need supply

The Picks: Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot in Black – $241.50 ($345) Billykirk Card Case – $41.99 ($95),  Sperry Captain’s Oxford – $55.99 ($95), Billykirk iPad sleeve – $48.29 ($138)

What was 20% last week, is now 30%. Strange thing about those Wolverines… they don’t appear to be marked down, but they are in the sale section. And the code is taking an extra 30% off at post time. Good to know that 2nds are going for $228 on Sierra Trading Post (and a heads up, STP has excluded Wolverine 1000 from seemingly all promotions).

UPDATE: Heard from the guys at Need Supply Co, and the Wolverine Boots are a glitch. So, strike that from the record counselor. 2nds are still going for $228 over at STP.

 

Rue La La: Semi-Annual Shoe Clearance

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The Picks: Cole Haan “Air Giraldo” single suede monk – $99.90 ($245)

Yes, Rue La La is a flash sale site so you have to hand over your email address, but like HauteLook (and sometimes Gilt… can depend on the sale) they’re one of the better ones. Returns policy at Rue La La is friendly. They’re free if you take store credit, but you can get your money back as long as you pop for return shipping. For those shoes… Air Giraldo? That mean you’re gonna wake up in the middle of the night to find it taking towel-clad selfies and posting them to twitter? Anyway, looks like a much higher quality version of the Florsheim Asset. A “How to wear it” for this type of shoe can be found right over here.

 

Lands’ End / L.E.C.: 25% off everything w/ TREAT & 1015

LEC new color denim

The Picks: LEC 5-Pocket Colored Jeans in 628 Straight fit or 608 slim – $51.00 ($68), 

Is this fall the last stand for L.E.C.? Haven’t heard anything, but it seems like they’ve cut back on the number of items they’re releasing, and they reabsorbed landsendcanvas.com into the standard Lands’ End site. A few new arrivals just came in, and the code + pin above get you free shipping at $50. So, those jeans really end up being more in the mid to low $40s when you factor in shipping costs. TREAT and 1015 expire on Monday, 8/5.

 

Nordstrom: Anniversary Sale Ends Sunday 8/4

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Original round up over here. Looks like they’ve stopped injecting new stuff into the sale awhile ago. If you jumped on something at the start, it’s almost certainly arrived by now. What’d you get? Those Red Wings worth a second look by those of us who are trying hard to resist?

 

BONUS: H&M’s Online Shop is Live

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It won’t be met with as much fanfare as the UNIQLO e-commerce debut from way back, but H&M has finally gotten around to e-commerce. Quality? It’s… well… As far as blazers go, they can be mighty chopped. So be warned. But some guys have certain items they seek out at H&M. Shipping is a flat $5.95 on everything. Thanks to Ryan N. for the tip! UPDATE: Try 0549 for free shipping. Hat tip to you guys in the comments once again.

Also worth a mention: Ralph Lauren is taking an extra 40% off all sale styles w/ RLSUM40, but pickins’ are awfully slim. J. Crew Factory is 40% off everything through Sunday, and they’ve got new sizes for their Thompson chino in at $88. Ledbury’s summer sale is still going on… still plenty expensive. FormFunctionForm is back on Huckberry, with some Timex Sport + Architect’s Wallets on sale.

02 Aug 12:57

The Very Not-Basic Wardrobe

by jessethorn
The Very Not-Basic Wardrobe:

We all know about basic wardrobes. But what about the not-basic wardrobe? Like the really, really not-basic wardrobe? Die Workwear investigates.

31 Jul 23:21

The Best Looking Men’s Dress Shoes Under $200

by Joe

The 20 Best Dress Shoes Under $200 of 2013

Paying for quality is smart, but not everyone can (or wants to) spend over two hundred bucks on a pair of dress shoes. Sometimes you need something to get you from point A to point B, and only then when you reach point B does it become possible to drop a couple C-notes on lace-ups. Plus, an inexpensive pair of shoes means you’re not married to them for the next decade. Most of us will rent a few places before we ever consider buying a house, right?

Sure, the leather might not be the best quality and those soles might be glued on, but that doesn’t mean you’re doomed to shoe hell. No matter how loud the shoe snobs squawk about sole-blow-outs, plenty of us have never had major quality issues with cheaper shoes. Feel free to add your favorite sub $200 shoes in the comments. In no particular order, here are this year’s best for under $200:

 

John W. Nordstrom Lido – $175.00

JWN Lido

A sleek, mean looking, Italian made dress shoe. The genius is in the simplicity. Not just suit worthy, tux-worthy. Ships free, returns free. Would’ve been incredible if they would have ended up in the Anniversary sale. Sold only in black. Would love to see a dark brown option in the future.

 

Mercanti Fiorentini Cap Toe Oxford, Double Monk, Cap Toe Blucher – $140 – $150

Merc Trio

You’ve got to be okay with a bit of a chisel toe, but if you’re good with that, then these are outstanding for the money. Especially if you sit tight and use one of those $15 – $25 off codes that roll around every so often. The leather is decent (although it does crease pretty easily), the soles are glued but strong, and they’re shockingly comfortable. Wore a pair of Merc. true oxfords for almost four days straight in Las Vegas, and they treated me extremely well. They’re also real receptive to shoe creme and polish (some cheap leathers seem to fight off leather treatments), so when they start to look a little dull, they can be cleaned up easily.

 

Billy Reid Savannah Wingtip in Bone – $150 ($375)

Billy Reid Summer

Summer stunners. Yowza. Now hugely marked down being that we’re sneaking up on August. Handmade in Italy. Goodyear Welt. Not something you’ll wear year round, but if you’re in a warmer climate, might be real nice to have on hand.

 

Ciro Lendini Cap Toe – $89.00 ($183)

Ciro L Cap Toes

Ciro Lendini is to Yoox as Mercanti Fiorentini is to DSW. Made in Italy, reasonable quality leather, and updated shapes. Super comfortable as well. Got a couple pairs of Ciro Lendini Shoes in the rotation and they’ve held up well. Don’t like the brogue-style perforations? There’s these from the brand “Thompson”, which also seems to be a Yoox exclusive made-in-Italy brand. Much more expensive, but expect that price to come down.

 

Banana Republic Troy Oxford – $94.80 w/ BRTREAT ($158)

BR Cap toe

Way, WAY better looking in person than in the pics on the BR website. While not mind-blowing, the leather quality seems to be a step up from their non-suede shoes of the past. Closed lacing give this slightly burnished true-oxford a nice and sleek look. One drawback (or advantage, if your commute can get slick) is the sole. It has a bit of traction to it. But that might make these a pair you reach for when the weather turns nasty. A real nice starter shoe for the entry level professional. Made in China. Code is good for 40% off full priced styles through 7/30 with the usual exclusions (suit jackets, blazers, etc)… but it looks like it’s one of those “select customers” sales. So, check the top bar of the Banana Republic site when you go. Some get 30%, some get 35%, some get 40%.

 

Aston Grey “Hunter” Oxford – $89.95

Aston Grey Hunter

These are a shameless, but pretty well executed “homage” to the To Boot New York “Aaron” oxford. Right down to the bubble traction rubber sole. Leather quality is decent, and Aston Grey continues to be one of the best budget brands out there. Available through DSW and also comes in black.

 

To Boot New York Aaron Oxford – $199.90 ($299)

Speedy.

Speaking of. Same shoe, right? Made in Italy, sleek and lightweight. Now just barely under the self-imposed $200 threshold during the Nordstrom Anniversary Sale. Not as round through the toe as an AE Strand, which honestly… if you’re going this high… spend the extra thirty bucks and snag yourself some strands (now $230 during the Anniv. sale). Just wish they’d have those strands down to $230 in something a little more versatile than the lighter Walnut shade.

 

Banana Republic Adrian Monk Strap – $94.80 w/ BRTREAT ($158)

BR double monks

Uh oh. Does the Mercanti Fiorentini Double Monk Strap have competition? Looks like the toes on these might not have that slight chisel that the Mercs do. Just released. Looks like the buckles aren’t too shined up either.

 

Johnston & Murphy Newell Boot – $185.00

JandMNewell

One of the few (only?) sub $200 boots out there that are suit worthy. True oxford closed lacing, and a slim sole. Very trim though, so if you’re borderline wide, consider going with their wide option. Not refurbishable. Leather is extremely smooth, but soft and not plastic-like. Slightly padded collar up at the top. These (either the mahogany shown or black) with jeans and a tweed blazer would look pretty sharp in the fall.

 

Magnanni Cap Toe – $179.40 @ extra 40% off ($299)

Magnanni Cap Toe

Hold your horses on these until LastCall runs an extra 30% off or 40% off code. When they dip under $200, then jump. Nice and lightweight. Smooth. A little too elongated for some. Made in Spain, and that slightly different swoop to the oxford stitching on the vamp is well done. Looking awfully close to a whole-cut, despite being a cap-toe.

 

John W. Nordstrom “Adrian” Oxford – $175.00

JWN Adrian

The black cap-toe Lido’s flashier cousin. Perfect shape to the toe. Half brogue styling. Sleek and made in Italy. One of the very, very few shoes that lands in this mid to upper $100′s price range.

 

Calibrate Brandon Oxford – $125.00

calibrate brandon

The budget version of the John W. Nordstrom Adrian. Up close, the leather does have a bit of that “too-smooth” look to it, but for $125? Nice and slender silhouette. One drawback: the toe does start to square off a little bit more than many would prefer, but it’s still a stunner at $125. 5/5 stars on Nordstrom after 12 reviews. Ships and returns free. Made in China.

 

Johnston & Murphy Melton Oxford – $120 – $140

JandM Melton

The less-fortunate-man’s Park Ave. VERY traditional in shape, but a best seller for a reason. Nice cap toe, traditional toe shape, and best of all: A Goodyear welt. Made in Mexico if memory serves. Available in black, or a nice reddish-brown “bordeaux”. Also available in wingtip form, their Greenwich Oxford.

 

John Doe Shoes Bennington Oxford – $135.00

John Doe Shoes

Along with the J&M Melton, as inexpensive as a Goodyear welted shoe will get. A new (very new) company started by a couple of brothers. Traditional shape, nice design details, but there’s one drawback: the leather is pretty stiff. They say full grain, but there’s not a lot of give out of the box. They do make a suede longwing though that might have serious potential. Return policy isn’t super clear, and it sounds like you’re on the hook for return shipping. Made in Mexico. Ships free. A company to keep an eye on for sure.

 

To Boot New York Anton Derby - $176.11 ($325)

TBNY Plain

Taking less is more to the extreme. Less everything. Totally plain, derby/blucher (open lacing) style shoe. No extra stitching, nothin’. Nada. There’s even less eyelets than your usual lace up. Made in Italy, sleek, and a perfect looking toe. The proud minimalists black dress shoe.

 

Kenneth Cole New York Double Monk Strap – $148.00

KCNY Double Monks

Turning one’s nose up at Kenneth Cole Shoes is low hanging fruit. Yes, they’ve made (and continue to make) some Frankensteinish blunt square shoes that give some sartorial snobs nightmares, but they can make a reasonably suave looking, reasonably priced shoe every once in awhile. This is one of those. “BUT THE SOLE IS JUST GONNA PEEL OFF OH MY GOD WHARGGHARBL!”… I’ve owned a few KCNY shoes in my time, and never had that happen. Still, might want to wait for a sale of go with the Mercs from DSW.

 

Stafford Ashford Men’s Longwing – $49.99 ($60)

stafford longwings

The black, longwing version of the well loved (and now discontinued?) Stafford Ashton. Despite being black, the longwing + blucher/derby style (open lacing) makes them lean casual. So best to stick with jeans, dark chinos, or wool trousers with these. For those on a serious budget, try the Claiborne Wallis for a plain toe, dressier lace-up.

 

Claiborne Suede Wingtip – $49.99 ($60)

claiborne suedes

Dress? More like dressed up casual. But still worth a mention. Deep brown suede, super comfortable out of the box, and a nice trim shape. A home run for the JCP Claiborne line. Not going to work all that well dressed up with a suit (unless it’s maybe a cotton or linen summer suit) but should do fine with jeans and trousers. Full review here.

 

The Potential Gold Mine: eBay

AE Park Aves

Some guys swear by eBay for picking up high end, gently used shoes. Some haven’t had the best luck. Be smart, be careful, and know that sometimes the previous wearer has left their imprint on not just the exterior of the shoe with scuffs and wrinkles, but on the inside of the shoe as well. Footbeds can conform to the wearers foot over time, and if the seller and you don’t match up real well, they might feel funny or uncomfortable. Shown above: A pair of Allen Edmonds Park Ave’s that were sitting around $89.99 yesterday.

What was missed? Got a favorite pair of sub $200 shoes that didn’t make the list? And eBayers… feel free to leave your tips (and your best finds) on buying shoes in the comments section below. Head here for last year’s list.

31 Jul 23:16

J. Press LIFE Magazine Photo Roll, 1954

by Christian

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We continue our series of related posts with these images by Nina Deen, the photographer who shot the 1954 LIFE Magazine article “The Ivy Look Heads Across US.” These photos, which didn’t make the print edition, surfaced several years ago when LIFE put its archives on Google, and were taken in J. Press’ New Haven shop.

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26 Jul 17:59

Lime Twist: What Go-To-Hell Can Do For You

by Christian
Whenever we put up a post on the bright colors and crazy patterns of what is known colloquially, or rather Internetically, as go-to-hell, the chorus of curmudgeons always chimes in with cantakerous remarks about how it’s all mere kids’ stuff. There’s no changing the minds of intractable fellows such as this, but for those of ...
26 Jul 14:44

The Ultimate Beginner’s Guide to Parkour

by Brett & Kate McKay
Nickfabiani

PARKOUR

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You’ve seen it on TV shows such as American Ninja Warrior (and not so seriously in The Office) as well as in movies like Casino Royale and The Bourne Ultimatum. If you’ve played Assassins Creed or Mirror’s Edge, you’ve even done it, virtually, at least.

I’m talking about parkour.

Yeah. That sport where you jump from buildings and vault over walls. Many men are drawn to parkour even if they’re not entirely sure what it is. It’s captivating to see someone move through an environment in ways we had previously not conceived of, and inspiring to witness the human body pushing the very limits of its capabilities. Plus, it just looks like so much fun and it seems like an important skill to have during the zombie apocalypse when you’ll need to be able outrun a pack of vicious brain-eaters (depending on your theory of their bipedal capabilities, of course).

To learn more about parkour I visited the Tempest Freerunning Academy in Los Angeles to talk to parkour/freerunning instructor, stuntman, Ninja Warrior veteran, and epic handlebar mustache owner Brian Orosco .

What is Parkour?

Parkour is all about moving through your environment efficiently and naturally. Parkour practioners, who are often called traceuers (from the French for ‘to trace’), jump, climb, and vault over obstacles in their path. Their goal is to get from point A to point B as efficiently as possible.

The history of parkour is actually pretty fascinating. It got its start in France and has its roots in military escape and evasion tactics and 19th century physical culture. In fact, the word “parkour” originates from the French phrase “parcours du combattant:” the obstacle course-based method of training used by the French military. So while we think of parkour today as simply an interesting form of recreation, it was actually developed as a tactical skill and way to build the fitness of soldiers.

The Difference Between Parkour and Freerunning

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Parkour and freerunning get used interchangeably. While they share a lot in common, there is a small difference.

Parkour is simply about maneuvering through your environment efficiently using jumps, swings, and vaults. No need for flips, wall spins, and other acrobatics. With freerunning, efficiency is less of a concern, and you can throw in these types of cool-looking acrobatic movements as well.

So when you’re watching YouTube videos of people doing flips and spins off walls, that’s freerunning; if they’re just jumping and vaulting over urban obstacles without acrobatics, they’re doing parkour.

Why Practice Parkour?

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Parkour is fun! In parkour, you basically treat the world around you like a giant playground. It’s fun to find novel ways to maneuver through your environment, and, yes, pretend you’re running away from ninja assassins and/or zombies. It harnesses your inner child that has long been dormant and just wants to run around, explore without limits, and simply play again.

Parkour is great exercise. Running, jumping, climbing, swinging. Parkour is a full-body workout that will simultaneously improve your body awareness and coordination.

Parkour is a challenge. Parkour will require you to push yourself physically and mentally. Starting out, you may not be able to do certain moves, but with time, you’ll gain the strength and coordination you need to master them. You’ll face obstacles that you think you could never surmount, but when you dig deep within yourself, you’ll find that you can push your body beyond what you saw as its limit. In short, parkour can help activate the primal switch of manliness within all of us for a challenge. As you overcome these challenges you’ll gain confidence in yourself that will carry over into other parts of your life.

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Source: Daily Texan

Parkour is a great way to make new friends. Parkour is a social sport. It’s typically done in groups, and the parkour community is very friendly and supportive. It’s not competitive; rather, the goal is to have a good time and to help each other improve.

Parkour can help save your life. We’re big proponents of the idea that every man should be able to save his own life should the circumstances arise. Parkour gives you the skills and physical conditioning to do that. We joke about zombies and having to escape and evade in an urban environment, but what if the day comes when your life depends on being able to run, jump, and climb over obstacles? Would you be able to do it? Parkour can help. It’s particularly handy when you have to jump from rooftop to rooftop.

Parkour makes you more creative. Parkour requires you to look at your environment creatively. Instead of interacting and maneuvering through the world as some architect or city designer wanted you to, you do it the way you want. Stairs? We don’t need no stinkin’ stairs! Oh, you want me to use this little pedestrian bridge? I’ll just jump over this gap and swing under this rail. Every fence, wall, or gap becomes an opportunity to try a new move. This sort of playfulness and creativity can seep over to other areas of your life, helping you find creative solutions to problems at work or in your relationships.

How to Get Started With Parkour

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Find a parkour group. The best way to get started in parkour is to find a local group and attend a parkour jam. People in the sport’s community are super friendly and supportive of one another. You’ll get insights from folks who have been doing it for awhile, plus you’ll have someone there to spot you on particularly hard moves. And of course, if you take a bad fall, you’ll have someone who can take you to the hospital. Most big cities have parkour meet-ups; you can find them on Meetup.com and the American Parkour forums.

Another great way to get started is to join a parkour gym like the Tempest Freerunning Academy if you’re lucky enough to have one in your area. These types of gyms are pretty new, and there aren’t too many out there right now, but more will likely be cropping up in the next several years as the sport continues to grow in popularity.

Be safe. Don’t take unnecessary risks. Your goal is to have a good time and push yourself beyond your comfort zone, but without hurting yourself. Your first question before any movement should be, “How can I do this without injuring myself?” Make sure to train with a group or a partner so they can spot you on demanding moves and call for help if needed. Before any training session, check the environment for any potential hazards, like broken glass and the like. In short, don’t be stupid.

Take it slow. Know your limits. Just because those around you are doing crazy flips and aerials from giant buildings, doesn’t mean you have to. Don’t try to do too much too soon. It’s going to take awhile for your body to adapt to the physical demands of parkour. Don’t move on to more complicated moves until you’ve mastered the basics. On a related note, don’t get so cocky about your abilities that you don’t take every move seriously. Pride goeth before the fall, and in parkour that fall can really hurt.

Respect private property. Stick to doing parkour in public spaces like parks and city plazas. Try to avoid times with high pedestrian traffic. If somebody asks you to leave, politely say, “Sure thing!” If the police confront you, be courteous, explain what you’re doing, and comply with requests to take it somewhere else. Parkour is a new and unfamiliar sport in the U.S. Anything you can do to give it a good name will help in making it more acceptable.

Basic Parkour Moves

Balancing

Balancing is a vital skill to have in parkour. You’ll often be walking and jumping on to small areas like rails and wall edges. You need to develop the muscle strength and coordination necessary so you don’t go tumbling to the ground. Practice balancing by standing and walking on rails. Consider taking up slacklining to help improve your balance.

Running

In order to successfully evade zombies or other malicious pursuers in an urban environment, you’ve got to run. Running in parkour requires both explosive sprinting as well as endurance. Training with parkour on a regular basis will help condition you to the running required, but consider adding in 5K runs and windsprints to speed things along.

Jumping and Dropping

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Source: JB London

Jumping plays a big role in parkour. Use jumps to overcome height differences and to get across gaps and over obstacles.

Precision jumping

Precision jumps allow you to land on small areas, like the small surface on top of a wall or maybe a stepping stone in the middle of a body of water. Precision jumps require concentration, balance, and an awareness of your limitations.

Tic-Tac

Tic-tacs are sort of a combination of a wall-climb and a jump. This technique allows you to get to places that are higher than you could with a jump. You’ve probably seen tic-tacs in martial arts movies or on American Ninja Warrior. It’s where a person runs towards a wall at an angle, places a foot on the wall, and then pushes off from the wall with that foot to jump to a higher level. Tic-tacs are typically used in combination with another movement.

Drop

drop is an active jump from a higher to lower level. When you’re first starting out with parkour, avoid dropping from anything higher than head-level. You need to master landing (see below) and you need to condition your body to the stress that comes from dropping from heights.

Landing

Knowing how to land safely and efficiently after jumping or dropping is an essential skill for parkour and freerunning. Landing correctly is what allows you to immediately get up and keep moving to the next obstacle, and, more importantly, not have to make a trip to the emergency room.

How you decide to land will depend on a few factors, namely: 1) the height you’re landing from, 2) the distance of your jump, 3) your landing surface, and 4) your preceding move.

Two-foot landing

Two-foot landings are more effective than one-foot landings at reducing the amount of stress your body experiences during landing. So when you can, try to land on two feet. When you land, you want your first contact with the ground to be with the balls of the feet, shoulder-width apart, knees over the tips of your toes.

Your goal is to land as “softly” as possible. To achieve that soft landing, bend your knees as you land — just make sure they don’t bend further than 90 degrees. If you’re jumping or dropping from a particularly high level or if you’re landing with a lot of forward momentum, let your torso sink towards your legs, and place your hands on the ground so your arms can help absorb some of the impact. Having your hands on the ground also puts you in a position to spring up and run to the next obstacle. This type of landing takes practice, so train from lower drops before moving to anything higher.

Rolling

Rolling is a vital landing skill to have if you want to avoid injuries. Rolling after landing spreads out the force of impact across more parts of your body, which reduces your chance of injury. You’ll typically want to drop to a roll after landing if you’re dropping from great heights or jumping horizontally with great forward speed. When performed correctly, a roll will allow you to land and pop right back up with nary a scratch on you.

You want to roll on your shoulder, diagonally across your back, so you’re rolling from one shoulder to the opposite hip. Tuck your head under your armpit as you go into the roll. Concentrate on rounding your body and making yourself into a ball. Keep yourself tucked as your weight carries you through the roll and keep your knees bent and your weight low as you rise to your feet.

Vaulting

As you’re running, you’re going to encounter obstacles that are too high to jump over. That’s where vaulting comes in. Vaulting is when you place your hands on an object to help you clear it. There are different kinds of vaults you can use depending on the obstacle you’re trying to clear and your personal preference. Brian Orosco from Tempest Freerunning Academy showed us five common vaults used in parkour and freerunning. You can see them in the video above. I’ve added links to various parkour sites that have step-by-step photo instructions of the vaults as well.

  • Step (safety) vault. Step vault is the easiest vault and lays the foundation for the rest. It’s typically done when approaching an obstacle slowly.
  • Speed vault. As the name suggests, the speed vault is performed when running at full speed.
  • Lazy Vault. This is a good vault to use when you approach an obstacle at an angle. You’ve probably done this type of vault without even knowing it when you played as a kid. Whenever your body goes sideways over the obstacle without your feet touching it and you have just one hand planted on the obstacle, you’re doing a speed vault.
  • Kong Vault. Kong vaults will make you look like you’re jumping over police cars like Caesar in Rise of the Planet of the Apes. This is an advanced vaulting technique. Don’t try this until you’ve had some experience parkouring.
  • Dash VaultThe dash vault is sort of like the Kong vault, except you leap feet first instead of head first.

Climbing

Stairs are for chumps. Sometimes it’s just more efficient to use a direct route to get to a higher level. That’s where climbing comes in. Take it slow with climbing when you first start with parkour. You’re not going to have any safety harnesses, so a fall from a particularly high level can get you in the hospital or six feet under. General rule when climbing in parkour is “don’t climb higher than you can jump down.” Besides basic “ladder” style climbing, there are some other climbing techniques to be aware of.

Wall run

Wall runs allow you to climb up a really high wall, really fast. The wall run is a deceptively complex movement. It’s a prominent obstacle on American Ninja Warrior, but it’s the one that many competitors have trouble with. To successfully execute a wall run you have to run, jump, climb, and hang in one fluid motion – not as easy as it looks.

Cat leap

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Source: JB London

The cat leap is a combination of a jump and a climb. You’ll use the cat leap when you have to span a gap, but the landing point is too high for you to land on your feet, so you have to hang from your hands when you get to the other side. Once you’re dangling from the edge of the building or wall, pull yourself to safety by bringing your knees into your chest and pressing your toes into the side of the building. Push your legs up by your toes and pull your body up by your hands at the same time. Really push with those legs — they’ll have much more strength and power than your arms. When your shoulders clear the top of the ledge, move your hands so that your palms are flat against the surface of the ledge, straighten out your arms, and push your body up. Lean forward so that your center of gravity is on the safety side, so you won’t fall if you lose your balance.

Swinging

Swinging from a bar or tree is used frequently in parkour. You’ll often see traceurs use swings to pass through an obstacle when there’s a gap between a rail and the ground.

Besides the basic underbar swing, you can get a bit fancier with the spiral underbar swing. Basically, you grip the bar in a way that causes you to spin as you swing under the bar. Pretty cool.

Parkour Resources

Many thanks to Brian Orosco for taking the time to talk to us and show us some vaults. Make sure to check out his stunt reel. It’s pretty sick. If you’re ever in the L.A. area, I highly recommend stopping by the Tempest Freerunning Academy.

Have you tried parkour? If so, any tips for beginners? Share with us in the comments!