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30 May 23:51

black on black

by sallie oleta barbee
Russian Sledges

I continue to think about sewing pants

Mood Fabrics Black distressed denim and black jersey tee

Hey everybuddy! I know these pictures look suspiciously a lot like my last post - but I swear it's all new makes! I feel like every year around this time I get the urge to make myself a new pair of jeans - and once I go down the jeans making route, well, it's basically a straight shot to Wardrobe-Basic-Ville!  After all, one can make only so many fun dresses before you're left standing in front of your closet on a random Tuesday morning, naked, with nothing to wear! (No? Only me?)

So for this months Mood Sewing Network make, I bring you the ever-so-humble jeans and a t-shirt combo - in all black. Because black is always the new black. This was mildly inspired by the fact that earlier this month I listened to Just Kids by Patti Smith on audiobook, read by none other than Patti Smith herself. Despite the fact that I was already pretty familiar with Patti Smith and Robert Mapplethorpe's story (I'm pretty sure it's a requirement for every art school kid), it was still a pretty engrossing read... er.. listen? And it definitely led me down a rabbit-hole of image searches where I became pretty obsessed with Patti and Robert's grungy, rock & roll style.

But let's talk about sewing!

Mood Fabrics Black distressed denim and black jersey tee

This is my fourth pair of handmade jeans (here, here, and the ones that started it all, here), and I swear they just keep getting better! For this pair I used a black, medium weight denim with a bit of stretch by Theory from Mood Fabrics online. Unfortunately this particular denim is now sold out, but I highly recommend the Theory denim. I've used it for one other pair of jeans and the stuff holds up well. I always like to order swatches of my denim before buying, because it's a bit hard to tell the difference online. That way I can pick out the weight, color, and amount of stretch I like best.  This denim had some stretch for comfort, but wasn't so stretchy that it didn't feel like denim, if you know what I mean. True confessions: I've actually been wearing these jeans for the past three days by the time I got around to photographing them, and the denim hasn't stretched out much at all!

Mood Fabrics Black distressed denim
Mood Fabrics Black distressed denim

Also - distressing!!! Denim. Distressing denim. I feel like people generally fall into two camps when it comes to jeans: The Purists (I will take my denim raw, and dark, and made the way my forefathers made it) and The Fashion Followers (Colored denim?! Let's do it!! Printed denim?!?! Where do I sign up!! Denim so torn up and distressed it's practically a crime that their selling it?!?! Gimme some of dat!!!)(Also, I couldn't think of a better name for this camp, suggestions are welcome). And then there's those of us that fall in between. I appreciate some fresh raw denim, so stiff it'll chafe your thighs the first month of wearing, but every now and then I get envious of those cool kids with their store-bought denim all perfectly ripped and faded... 

So I decided to try my hand at some light distressing of my own. After all,  distressing denim is just a fun embellishment! Obviously for the home sewer, industrial distressing techniques are a bit scarce, but you'd be surprised what you can do with a few basic tools. For my pair I used a hammer and a metal plate to hammer each seam, then I took a dremmel tool to the edges to wear them down and fray certain areas. It was great stress relief! You know, in case the yoga and meditation ain't working - there's nothing quite like destroying something to cure what ails 'ya! 

Mood Fabrics Black distressed denim and black jersey tee

For the pattern I used my ol' reliable - the Built By Wendy pants pattern from SewU, which is so altered at this point that I should just call it mine. On my last pair of jeans that I made I had some issues with the dreaded leg twist (that spoiler of all jeans-making fun!) If you're not familiar, leg twist is when one or both legs ... well... twist! It's mildly irritating both visually, and physically for the wearer. It's often the result of inaccurate cutting or sewing, and seems to be very prevalent with jeans due to the twill weave of the fabric - which tends to have built in warp - or skew (according to my google searches). So this time I took a few precautionary steps to prevent this: 1) I traced and cut all pieces on a single layer instead of folded in half (this also results in greater fabric yield) and 2) I made sure that all the leg pieces were cut from the same area of fabric - meaning I lined them all up, going in the same direction, horizontally across the fabric. I actually remembered to take a picture while I was working to show you what I'm talking about:

My yardage was wide enough that all four leg pieces could be placed this way. This way if the twill weave was to skew, they would all skew together! Anyway, it worked! Nothing but perfectly straight seams here! If you want to read more about leg twist - this is a good source.

Mood Fabrics Black distressed denim
Mood Fabrics Black distressed denim

I realized I've never really shown you guys the insides of one of my pairs of jeans. Not that they're all that exciting, but I know how nosy all of us sewists are when it comes to construction! All of my topstitching was done in black topstitching thread, which unfortunately means that it's not super visible. This is a shame, because this just might be my best topstitching on a pair of jeans yet! Also, fun fact - I don't use a twin needle to do any of my topstitching. I've broken way too many twin needles during jeans sewing that I've just given up. I usually draw out my topstitching by hand, and use my chalk lines as a guideline.

I serged all the raw edges since this is stretch denim, and because I was too lazy to do flat felled seams. And the pocket lining is just some pretty floral fabric that I keep around for just such a purpose.

Mood Fabrics Black distressed denim
Mood Fabrics Black distressed denim
Mood Fabrics Black distressed denim and black jersey tee

Because jeans sewing can be such a time-consuming project (especially if you're like me and only own one sewing machine - you're constantly changing out thread!) I wanted to pair it with an instant-gratification sew. And nothing says 'instant-gratification' to me quite like a knit t-shirt!

Mood Fabrics Black viscose jersey tee

After seeing Heather Lou's super sexy version of Deer & Doe's Plantain Tee I decided I had to jump on that bandwagon. Also, free t-shirt pattern!?! Yes please! I used this drapey silk viscose jersey from Mood, and, man oh man, is this stuff ever luxurious to wear! Silky and smooth and light, with a lovely fluidity. Even though this pattern calls for a more stable knit, I felt like the drapey quality of this silk viscose would actually pair well with the subtle flared shape of the Plantain tee (and, also, I was copying Heather... duh... clearly I can't get enough of that girl). I stabilized the shoulder seams with a bit of clear elastic, and sewed all major seams on my serger. The sleeve and shirt hems were both simply folded under and finished with a double needle.

Mood Fabrics Black viscose jersey tee

And to thank you guys for putting up with another extra long post, I'll leave you with this gem:

DSC_0053

Not really sure what I was going for there! But ya know... I like to get a little crazy for the camera every now and then. And yes, this was in front of a stranger's house. A stranger who came home while I was taking these. I have no shame...

Well, anyway! I've been wearing both of these makes a ton since they came hot off of the sewing machine! I think that's a sign of a great basic! What about you guys - got any wardrobe basics planned for the near future?

xx
05 Aug 06:00

CUTTING TABLE DIY

by Heather Lou

Closet Case Files: Cutting Table DIY

As promised, today I’ll be sharing how to make the greatest cutting table of all time. I may be a tad biased since I built this sucker with my own two hands, but after a few days of woodworking research I think this is one of the easiest, cheapest ways to build a mobile, durable cutting table that actually looks good.

If you sew a lot, there are few things in the world more desirable than a sturdy table you can work at without stooping over. I have lower back issues from years of sitting at a desk and postponing yoga, and my dining room table was slowly killing me and my body. A comfortable working height is 36 inches for most people (hence why it’s the standard counter height in kitchens) so that’s what we’re aiming for here, although the shorter or taller among you may want to tweak the height accordingly. Just keep in mind that stools are designed to be used at 36″ and 42″ countertops, so sitting may be awkward if you stray too much from those dimensions.

The great thing about this project is that it requires minimal tools. You will have the bulk of the cutting done at your hardware store, which makes it much easier to get stuff home. This tutorial will provide you with a table that is 3 feet wide by 6 feet long. If you want something smaller, you’ll have to tweak the dimensions. In case anyone wants a different take, here is the tutorial I used for reference, although with substantial modifications.

I had a few pieces that were a little too big so hopefully you can learn from my mistakes if you use the following guidelines. Here’s what you’ll need:

TOOLS

  • an electric drill with a drill bit to match your screws
  • an electric sander (if you don’t have one you can get them for around $30)
  • a level (I use a level app on my iphone)
  • measuring tape
  • a handsaw (you can get cheap ones for around $10 and they are a handy thing to have in your toolbox)

LUMBER

  • one sheet of 3/4″ plywood for the tabletop cut down to 3 feet by 6 feet. I used spruce. You can also use pine or maple – just make sure you like the grain. Higher grades of wood are more pricey. This tabletop will overlap each side by about 2″.
  • one sheet of 3/8″ plywood in the same wood as above cut to 67″ x 31″. This will be the bottom level of your table. Make sure to find a sheet that isn’t cupping.
  • (6 x) 2×4′s that are 8′ long in spruce or pine. You will ask all of them to be cut at 5′-4″ – this will give you 6 pieces to act as your long support posts, and 6 additional pieces at roughly 32″ long. 4 of these will act as your vertical legs – the other 2 pieces should be cut down to 31″ to provide the additional horizontal support for your castors at the very bottom. Make sure your 2 x 4′s are nice and straight – you can eyeball them by looking down each side, or ask someone for help. Bowed 2 x 4′s do not a straight table make.
  • (1 x) 2×4 that is 10′ long in spruce or pine. Ask for 4 cuts of 24″ each (the saw takes off a little so you want to use a slightly longer piece of wood). These will brace your legs.

ADDITIONAL SUPPLIES

  • (4 x) heavy duty castors, 2 of them locking. I bought 3″ castors that had an overall  height of almost 4″. This plus your legs and the tabletop will give you a total height of just over 36″.
  • (8 x) galvanized steel rigid ties exactly like this. You can find them in the hardware section of the Home Depot. These are great because they let you join all your 2 x 4′s easily and accurately. I also think they look industrial and awesome.
  • A large box of #8 1 1/4″ long wood screws. Get at least 200 – each rigid tie takes 20 screws.
  • A small box of #8 3″ long wood screws, at least 20. You will use these to secure your long and short support posts.
  • 1 can of  stain, if you want it. I am in love with Minwax White Wash Pickle Stain – it lets the grain show through while lightening the wood. And it looks Scandinavian and sexy as hell. I don’t suggest paint for this project. It’s not a good finish for tabletops that get a lot of use – it will look terrible within a few months.
  • 1 can of water based polyurethane. I suggest Minwax Polycrylic; it dries totally clear. Most polyurethanes have a yellow tint.
  • A couple of foam brushes.
  • 3 kinds of sandpaper. At least 3 sheets each of 120, 150 and 180 grit. You will use each one at different times in the sanding/sealing process.
  • a dust mask
  • lint free cloths

Closet Case Files- Cutting Table DIY

All in, the supplies will cost around $200, not including any of the tools. I thought this was very reasonable, especially after looking into getting something custom made (OUCH!) It took me a day and a half to complete the project, a worthwhile investment to save my weary back muscles.

THE PROCESS

  • Once you get everything home, you’ll need a good place to start sanding. I used my balcony. If you do it inside, try to seal off one room of your house because you will get dust EVERYWHERE! Start with your 2 x 4 pieces. Sand each long side with your 120 grit paper. You may have to work a little harder to sand off any of the markings on the wood. The only bottom and top edges you need to worry about are the ones for the 2 x 31″ pieces. These are the only edges you will see in this project. You basically want to sand off any splinters and rough edges and get a somewhat smooth finish but don’t go crazy. 2 x 4′s are notoriously imperfect.
  • Finish sanding the 2 x 4′s with your 150 grit paper. This prepares the wood for the stain.
  • Wipe all your wood down with a barely damp cloth to remove the dust. Once they are dry, use your foam brush to apply stain to all the long sides, rubbing it off with a dry cloth as you go. The only short sides you need to worry about staining are on your 2 x 31″ pieces.
  • Let your stain dry for a few hours and sand them again, this time with the 180 grit paper. It smooths down the wood that expanded and got rough from the stain.
  • Wipe with a barely damp cloth again and use a fresh foam brush to apply your sealer. Check when you’re done each piece to smooth out any drips. You’ll want 3 coats total; sand again with the 180 grit after the first and second coats to smooth out any bumps. It seems like a lot of sanding but it actually goes by quite quickly! I wrap my foam brushes in saran wrap in between coats so they don’t dry out. Pro tip: Blare some classic rock and feel like a badass while using your sander.
Closet Case Files- Cutting Table DIY

Sanded, stained and sealed 2 x 4′s.

  • You are going to repeat the exact same sanding process for your two sheets of plywood, but you only have to finish one side of each, since the other will be mostly invisible. Before you sand your 3/8″ plywood, cut each corner so that the plywood will hug your 2 x 4 legs with a handsaw. Be sure to sand the edges of the plywood well, since you don’t want your lovely fabric to catch on snags!
  • Now that you’ve got everything sanded, stained and sealed, we’re ready for the fun part. ASSEMBLY! Before we get started, you may want to remove the stickers from the rigid ties with some Goo Gone. The Goo Gone will also help remove any grime or oil on the steel – wash them with soap and water and let them dry.

Closet Case Files- Cutting Table DIY-3

  • Lay your 24″ pieces on the ground and thread your 32″ legs through the rigid ties. Add two long supports so you can make sure everything lines up.
  • Start screwing in the 1 1/4″ screws with your power drill. Make sure you go in nice and straight, and back off the drill when they tighten up so you don’t thread your screws. Don’t forget to screw the inside corners too.

Closet Case Files- Cutting Table DIY-4

  • Once your legs are screwed in, you’ll want to attach the bottom 2 x 24′ bracings. They should start 6″ from the bottom of your legs. Use a measuring tape, pencil and level to keep everything straight.

Closet Case Files- Cutting Table DIY-5

  • Attach the remaining long supports, using your 3″ screws.
  • Drill your 32″ cross bracing to the inside of each set of legs, making sure your 2×4 is level with the bottom of your legs.
  • Screw in your castors. In my case, I had one castor edge hanging out, but 3 screws per castor should be plenty if the same thing happens to you.
  • Flip that baby right side up. Shed a single, proud tear. And then turn up the classic rock.

Closet Case Files- Cutting Table DIY-7

Closet Case Files- Cutting Table DIY-6

You can get a little lazy sanding the edges of the 2 x 4′s that you know won’t be visible, take it from me.

  • To get your 3/8″ sheet of plywood in, you’ll have to do some creative angling but don’t worry, it will fit.
  • Lay your tabletop on the frame. I didn’t want to secure the table in case I wanted to pull it out and create room for my legs when I’m working, and also for ease of dis-assembly if I ever move to a bigger studio. If you’re staying put, you can use construction adhesive to glue it down, but I found using some silicone furniture pads available at the dollar store prevent it from moving around too much.

Closet Case Files- Cutting Table DIY-8

  • Finally, you can attach a bar to the sides if you’d like to hang your tools. I got a silver one with some S hooks at Ikea.

Closet Case Files- Cutting Table DIY-13

And that’s it folks! It’s a few days of work, but I cannot even begin to tell you how much this table has transformed my sewing practice. I don’t dread cutting anymore, and it’s a pleasure to unfold silk and watch it slip around on my beautifully varnished tabletop.

Closet Case Files- Cutting Table DIY-12

And if your friends and family think you’re a sewing superstar now, wait until you tell them you BUILT this!

Happy making!

Closet Case Files: Cutting Table DIY

The post CUTTING TABLE DIY appeared first on Closet Case Files.

15 Aug 13:51

Japanese Fabric Kokka Nani Iro Itsura Textile Jun Kan - C by MissMatatabi

Russian Sledges

multitask suicide, let's open a #dark sewing shop

9.75 USD

nani IRO Itsura Textile Jun Kan by Naomi Ito for Kokka

55% linen, 45% cotton

1/2 metre (50cm x 110cm wide : 19" x 43" wide)

For continuous yardage please change the quantity at the checkout.

Parcels are shipped via small packet international airmail from Japan.

Japan Post does not provide tracking numbers for small packet airmail.

A shipping upgrade with a tracking number and insurance can be purchased
for an additional $5. If you would like to upgrade to registered small packet airmail
please let me know.

Thank you very much.

All images © by Naomi Ito from ATELIER to nani IRO & KOKKA co.,ltd

08 Aug 14:11

Mercure dress • vintage 1950s dress • gray 50s lace dress by DearGolden

Russian Sledges

#wouldeat

345,00 USD

Vintage 1950s pewter gray lace dress with subtle dusty pink under layer, pretty sweetheart neckline, fitted waist, full skirt with wide plisse hem and metal back zipper. Shown with gray ribbon at the waist (included).

✂-----Measurements

fits like: small
bust: 32-34"
waist: 26"
hip: free
length: 47"
brand/maker: n/a
condition: excellent

To ensure a good fit, please read the sizing guide:
http://www.etsy.com/shop/DearGolden/policy

➸ More vintage dresses ✩
https://www.etsy.com/shop/DearGolden?section_id=5986725&ref=shopsection_leftnav_3

➸ Visit the shop ✩
http://www.DearGolden.etsy.com
_____________________

➸ instagram | deargolden
➸ twitter | deargolden
➸ facebook.com | deargolden
➸ blog | www.deargolden.com

13 Aug 14:00

The Temporary (?) Shutter: The State Has Seized M3 in Davis Square

by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
Russian Sledges

I received a distraught email about this

a-look-inside-m3-opening-tomorrow.jpeg
[Photo: Cal Bingham]

M3, a Southern restaurant in Somerville's Davis Square, is closed — at least for now. It has been seized by the state, reports Boston Restaurant Talk. In the Davis Square LiveJournal community, Ron Newman also shares the news, adding that a notice at the restaurant indicates that M3 allegedly owes landlord Christos Poutahidis $25,238. According to some recent Yelp reviews, the restaurant had stopped accepting credit cards at least as far back as May.

M3 opened in June 2012, featuring Southern-style "meat and three" dishes — an entree with three "fixings," plus a biscuit or cornbread. Located in a small space on the outskirts of Davis Square, it's in a strip of establishments that recently lost Kickass Cupcakes, which moved further down Highland Avenue before closing this month. It's unclear when or if M3 might reopen, and all has been quiet on its Facebook and Twitter accounts for quite some time.
· M3 has been seized by the state [BRT]
· M3 restaurant closed due to seizure [DSLJ]
· All coverage of M3 on Eater [~EBOS~]

17 Mar 18:00

Shoe Bags + Self Interview

by Taylor
Russian Sledges

and this

gonna do this for sure

blue shoe bags

So, I made some shoe bags.

Why?

I want to protect my nice shoes from dust and cat hair when I’m not wearing them. I also want to protect clean clothes from dirty shoe soles when packing my shoes in a suitcase.

Shouldn’t nice shoes come with shoe bags from the manufacturer?

Some companies include them, some don’t. Plus, sometimes I buy used shoes, and used shoes don’t always come with bags.

Aren’t used shoes gross?

When they are taken care of properly and in good condition, I don’t think so. I would rather have a really nice pair of used shoes than a crummy pair of new shoes for the same money. Full-grain leather shoes with the type of construction that allows for soles to be replaced can be expensive, and shoes don’t grow on trees. Really nice shoes can be found at a fraction of the full retail price at thrift stores and eBay. Do some research, figure out your size, and be ready when a good deal comes along.

shoe bags with shoes inside

If they don’t grow on trees, where do shoes come from?

Many shoes “grow” on cows, and the animal lover in me isn’t quite sure what to think about this. I know, humans have been wearing animal skin for eons, and at certain points in human history, our lives probably depended on using animal skin for protection.

But, we live in a modern world with alternatives and synthetic leather, wouldn’t those be better than using real leather?

Synthetic materials seem (I don’t know for certain) as if they would be bad for the environment to produce (I do recognize that large scale livestock production probably isn’t so good for the environment either). But, synthetic materials don’t break in or wear like nice leather. Leather may crease, but synthetics crack, and peel, and look awful…meh….first world problems…but at least we wouldn’t be killing animals for their skin. Like I said, I’m not sure what to think about this. I guess if we are killing the cows for food, we might as well use the hides for shoes…?

shoe bags closed with shoes inside

Isn’t this a blog about sewing menswear, why so much shoe talk?

Because I like shoes. And if I’m spending all this time making clothes for myself, my shoe game had better be decent. Part of dressing like a grown up is wearing grown up shoes.

Why don’t you make shoes too?

Because my wife won’t let me. The machines are too big and expensive. The learning curve would be huge, and I don’t have time.

If you buy decent quality shoes to begin with and take good care of them, they will last a long time. You will probably save money in the long run. Put them in shoe bags and use shoe trees when you aren’t wearing them. Also, give your shoes a proper cleaning/conditioning when they need it. Nobody likes stinky feet or stinky shoes.

28 May 18:35

Canvas Shoulder Bag

by Taylor
Russian Sledges

also gonna sew bags

Canvas Shoulder Bag, front

After experimenting with backpacks last summer (Roll top 1, Roll top 2), I got hooked on bag design. My roll top packs have been good travel companions, but occasionally there are times when I need something a little smaller with easy access zipper pockets. Filson makes some of the best shoulder bags on the planet, and naturally I looked to them for inspiration. If I didn’t enjoy making my own gear, I would be saving my money for a Filson briefcase style bag instead.

Canvas Shoulder Bag, pocket

I used 18oz canvas, heavy duty Riri zippers, cotton webbing and seam tape throughout. The front exterior pocket has places for pens, keys, and other small items. Within the main compartment is a sleeve for an iPad, phone pocket, and two slightly deeper billow style pockets for larger objects.

Canvas Shoulder Bag, side

On the backside is a flat, snap closure pocket for a newspaper, magazine, boarding pass, etc. The shoulder strap is adjustable and removable if I want to carry it more like a briefcase. The bottoms of bags and packs usually show signs of wear first, so I decided to brush the bottom panel (not shown) with a thick layer of latex for durability.

Canvas Shoulder Bag, back

Anyone who follows me on Instagram has seen pictures of this project in progress. Here is a little collage of iPhone photos that start with the initial drawing, move to the pattern making process, then pattern testing and construction, and lastly the final bag.

instagram_collage

From here I think I am moving on from bags and packs for a little while and back to clothing. I know I’ve talked about making a men’s jacket/blazer several times, and even started work on it a long time ago. It’s time to actually do it. So, that’s my plan. I’m currently looking for a jacket drafting system that I can use to create the pattern. Once I find one, it will probably take me most of the summer (and beyond) to get the fit right and properly learn how to put a jacket together.

14 Aug 11:10

Alder Sew Along Part 03: Specific Fit Adjustments

by Jen Beeman

Today I have a few specific fit adjustments for you, lengthening and shortening the pattern, moving darts, and a full bust adjustment. For all of these images you can click for the full sized view.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 03 | Specific Fit Adjustments

First up is lengthening and shortening the dress. I’l be showing the skirt here.

1. Start by locating the pattern piece you need to adjust. Depending on what piece you’re altering there may or may not be lines to denote where you should lengthen & shorten between. If there are no lines, you can draw in your own.

2. Cut between the lines. With a piece of paper underneath the pattern, spread the two sections the amount you need to lengthen your piece making sure to keep the grain line of the two pieces aligned.

3. Trace your piece off onto the paper and re-blend any jagged edges along the side seam and repeat the adjustment to any affected pieces.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 03 | Specific Fit Adjustments

You can also follow the above steps with any part of the pattern. Here’s an example of how you could raise and lower the armhole while moving the dart lower at the same time. If you need to lengthen or shorten just the bottom of the torso, perform the same steps with a line perpendicular to the center back running out through the center of the side seam.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 03 | Specific Fit Adjustments

If you find that the torso is the correct length but you need to move the dart here are some easy steps to do so. We’re going to be moving the dart down in this tutorial but if you need to raise it you can do the opposite.

1. Draw a line through the bust point parallel to the CF/grain line. Place a mark along that line at the point where you need to lower the dart. If you need to lower the dart 1″ you would place the mark 1″ below the existing bust point.

2. Move the legs down the same amount down from where they connect at the side seams. Reconnect the dart legs to the dart point.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 03 | Specific Fit Adjustments

3. You’re going to now need to fold the dart, since you’ve moved it the dart take-up is now in the wrong place at the side seam. Fold the dart so that the dart excess points down towards the waist and re-blend the side seam. Trim off the extra.

4. This is your new pattern.

Now lets talk Full Bust Adjustments. This is something that I don’t have a ton of experience with being that typically when I’m making a pattern, either for myself or a client, I know what bust size I’m starting with and the pattern is drafted for that. As I said in the previous post the Alder pattern is drafted for a B cup so if you’re a C you may be able to get away without a FBA. The illustrations are cropped for better detail but any vertical lines should extend to the bottom of the pattern piece.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 03 | Specific Fit Adjustments

1. Select your size based on your upper bust & waist measurements. Cut size.

2. Draw a line from the apex of the dart out through the center of the dart legs splitting the dart in half. Next you’re going to draw a vertical line from the apex down to the hemline of the pattern piece making sure to keep the line parallel to the CF / grain line. From there draw a line connecting the apex to the approximate center of the armscye. These are the lines that will form the full bust adjustment. Additionally you’re going to need a line across the torso, perpendicular to the CF / grain line in order to line the hem up in a future step. I made this one dotted so that it doesn’t get confused with the adjustment lines.

3. Slash through the waistline to the bust and up to the armscye taking care to cut to, but not through, the pattern at that point. You want to make sure that the two pieces are hinged together. Then slice through the dart line you drew to, but not through, the bust point. You’ll then open the vertical slit the amount of your full bust adjustment making sure that the two edges of the opening are parallel.

Day03_09

PLEASE NOTE: The illustrations here are drawn without seam allowances for ease of explanation. When clipping to the armscye clip just to the seam line (1/2″ on the pattern) and then clip to, but not through the seam allowance to the seam line keeping the piece hinged.

To find the amount of your full bust adjustment subtract your upper bust measurement from your full bust measurement. Take this number (the total adjustment) and divide it by 2 to get the amount you need to increase on one side. So say your full bust was 38 and your upper bust was 36 you’d subtract 38-36=2/2=1 so your adjustment would be 1″.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 03 | Specific Fit Adjustments

4. You’ll notice that when you move the side out for the adjustment the center front panel became shorter than the piece you moved. Cut along the line you drew in step 2 and align the newly freed piece so that it’s even with both the center front and the dotted line on the side piece.

5. Find the center of the dart legs and mark a line through the center of the dart (dotted line above). This will help you when folding the dart in the next step. Then draw your lines from the dart legs to the apex.

Grainline Studio | Alder Sew Along Day 03 | Specific Fit Adjustments

6. Fold the dart legs together with the takeup pointing to the bottom of the garment and re-blend the side seam. I like to score the top dart leg and center line lightly with an awl to help the pattern fold right where you want it to on the first try. You can either cut across the side seam / dart or mark it with a pattern tracing wheel and cut when the dart is open.

7. Unfold the dart and cut out your new piece.

That’s all, tomorrow we start cutting!

15 Aug 16:00

Smeg - the cutest fridge around

by kim
Russian Sledges

via rosalind

VISI

An adorable retro shape, fun colours (so your options are not just black, white or stainless)....what's not to love about a Smeg fridge?!

Fantastic Frank

Avotakka

Hus & Hem

Home and Delicious

Elle Decoration Sweden

Hus & Hem

micasa

Hemnet

Sanna Lindberg

Paula Arcklin

Anna Cardell

Jonas Ingerstedt

 Joséphine Gintzburger

Marise Marini Arquitetura

Eric Flogny

Freunde von Freunden

The Village

Home & Decor Singapore

Design*Sponge

14 Aug 22:33

earthandanimals: Master class on fishing by Igor...

Russian Sledges

via rosalind

#fishplease









earthandanimals:

Master class on fishing by Igor Shilokhvost

GUYS, I FOUND LUNCH. IT IS FISH.

14 Aug 16:02

A TV that works only when you smile

by Mark Frauenfelder
Russian Sledges

via multitask suicide

#dystopia

Royal College of Art design graduate David Hedberg created a TV set that operates only when you are smiling. (more…)

14 Aug 14:54

A sample of US military veterans' reactions to Ferguson police crackdown

by Xeni Jardin
Russian Sledges

via multitask suicide

Bu9Ly79CYAAH34I

"The general consensus here: if this is militarization, it's the shittiest, least-trained, least professional military in the world, using weapons far beyond what they need, or what the military would use when doing crowd control." [Storify]

14 Aug 18:59

How Congress Helped Create Ferguson’s Militarized Police

by Emma Roller, National Journal
Russian Sledges

via kellygo

It all goes back to 1990.
12 Aug 21:35

Japanese Fabric reversible double knit - houndstooth penguin - black and gray by MissMatatabi

Russian Sledges

have you heard of my new band, Houndstooth Penguin?

8.40 USD

∆∆∆ ON SALE ∆∆∆

100% cotton reversible double knit

50cm x 150cm (19" x 59") Extra wide.

If you would like continuous yardage please change the quantity at the checkout.

Parcels are shipped via small packet international airmail from Japan.

Japan Post does not provide tracking numbers for small packet airmail.

A shipping upgrade with a tracking number and insurance can be purchased
for an additional $5. If you would like to upgrade to registered small packet airmail
please let me know.

Thank you.

All images © Miss Matatabi

13 Aug 12:29

Japanese Fabric Yuwa PATISSERIE - cream - fat quarter by MissMatatabi

Russian Sledges

attn #teamcake

3.50 USD

PATISSERIE by Yuwa

100% quilting cotton

Lightweight.

1 x fat quarter (50cm x 55cm , 19 inches x 21 inches)

If you would like continuous yardage please change the quantity at the checkout.

Parcels are shipped via small packet international airmail from Japan.

Japan Post does not provide tracking numbers for small packet airmail.

A shipping upgrade with a tracking number and insurance can be purchased
for an additional $5. If you would like to upgrade to registered small packet airmail
please let me know.

Thank you.

All images © Miss Matatabi

14 Aug 05:13

Japanese Fabric - geo polar bears double gauze - aqua blue and mint by MissMatatabi

6.00 USD

Kobayashi geo polar bears double gauze

100% cotton

Lightweight double gauze

1/2 metre (50cm x 110cm , 19" x 43")

If you would like continuous yardage please change the quantity at the checkout.

Parcels are shipped via small packet international airmail from Japan.

Japan Post does not provide tracking numbers for small packet airmail.

A shipping upgrade with a tracking number and insurance can be purchased
for an additional $5. If you would like to upgrade to registered small packet airmail
please let me know.

Thank you.

All images © Miss Matatabi

15 Aug 07:51

Japanese Fabric - Embroidered Linen - orange on natural by MissMatatabi

9.00 USD

High quality linen with embroidered leaves

100% linen

Light weight and sheer.

1/2 metre (50cm x 104cm, 19" x 40" wide)

If you would like continuous yardage please change the quantity at the checkout.

Parcels are shipped via small packet international airmail from Japan.

Japan Post does not provide tracking numbers for small packet airmail.

A shipping upgrade with a tracking number and insurance can be purchased
for an additional $5. If you would like to upgrade to registered small packet airmail
please let me know.

Thank you.

06 Aug 16:33

You are not a storyteller. In the war against people who call...

Russian Sledges

"no, fuckhead, you are not a storyteller, you are a rollercoaster designer, and that's fantastic"



You are not a storyteller.

In the war against people who call themselves “storytellers”, Stefan Sagmeister has my sword, my axe, and any other sharp implement I can find.

14 Aug 19:31

US veterans: Ferguson Police Department’s response is a clusterfuck

by Xeni Jardin
Russian Sledges

via multitask suicide

More on responses to the police crackdown in Ferguson, MO by U.S. veterans of the wars in Iraq and Afghanistan that the police actions so closely resemble--vets say it's not only overkill, but totally clueless. Read the rest
14 Aug 22:41

thepaperbeast: As some of you may know, I spend half my week...

Russian Sledges

via rosalind









thepaperbeast:

As some of you may know, I spend half my week playing creative for this rad lil sock purveyor Odd Pears.

Our Spring range (that I happened to design!) has just gone live.

Have a play on our brand new website, check out our collaboration with Phebe Shmidt in all its hi-res glory, and maybe order some Pears?! 

Have a peep - www.oddpears.com

13 Aug 12:18

ModCloth Becomes First Fashion Company to Sign Anti-Photoshopping Pledge

by Tyler McCall
Russian Sledges

via bernot

The retailer has agreed to label the images of models whose appearance has been modified by Photoshop.
13 Aug 16:48

Alden & Harlow: Cambridge, MA

by russiansledges
Russian Sledges

nomination for best new restaurant in bon appetit

I resent this "brooklyn" nonsense, though

Located next to the historic Brattle Theatre in Harvard Square, Alden & Harlow’s vibe is more Brooklyn than Boston—in all the best ways. Dim lighting, subway-tiled walls, reclaimed wood, and vintage signs set the cozy scene, where well-heeled Cambridge locals, overworked students, and tenured professors chow down on a mix of high/low deliciousness like chips and three-onion dip and the restaurant’s coveted “secret” burger, made from a custom house blend of beef and served with salted onions, Little Gem lettuce, and melty cheddar. What to Order: Stone fruit and house pancetta; beef heart tartare; chicken-fried rabbit with celery, apple, blue cheese, and chile oil We Love: That even though they are on the menu, A&H serves only 30 of those "secret" burgers a night, often selling out by 8:00 p.m.
12 Aug 20:45

Eaterwire: Taste of the Seaport; Frozen Treat Class at Sofra

by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
Russian Sledges

"CAMBRIDGE — On September 22, head to Sofra for a cooking class on frozen treats with executive pastry chef Maura Kilpatrick and pastry chef Molly Rabideau. Your $85 ticket includes recipe demonstrations, tastings, and wine pairings."

is there anything that doesn't come with wine pairings now?

sofra.jpgSEAPORT DISTRICT — Taste of the Seaport, which was supposed to take place tomorrow afternoon, has been moved to this Thursday, August 14, due to the chance of rain tomorrow. It'll take place from noon to 1:30 p.m. in South Boston Maritime Park, at the intersection of D Street & Congress Street. Free and open to the public. [FB]

CAMBRIDGE — There are a few tickets left for Season to Taste's upcoming beer dinner with Will Meyers of Cambridge Brewing Company, taking place this Friday evening, August 15. Tickets are $125 and include beer-paired dishes like octopus and razor clam choucroute and a duo of rabbit preparations. [Eventbrite]

CAMBRIDGE — On September 22, head to Sofra for a cooking class on frozen treats with executive pastry chef Maura Kilpatrick and pastry chef Molly Rabideau. Your $85 ticket includes recipe demonstrations, tastings, and wine pairings. [Eventbrite]
[Photo: Sofra/Facebook]

13 Aug 17:00

The Shutter: Lizzy's Has Closed to Make Way for Lone Star

by Rachel Leah Blumenthal
Russian Sledges

<3 lone star

L-2013-01-04-at-1.03.12-PM.jpgLizzy's, an East Cambridge restaurant that closed temporarily in early 2013 but reopened for awhile, is now closed for good. "To all my friends...Josh and The Lizzbians bid you a fond final farewell," the restaurant posted on Facebook on August 8. "Take care of yourselves and each other. So long and thanks for all the fish, hope you had the time of your life."

Popular Allston restaurant Lone Star Taco Bar is expanding across the river, taking over the Lizzy's space. A month ago, the upcoming restaurant was granted a liquor license. Stay tuned for an opening timeline.
· All coverage of Lizzy's on Eater [~EBOS~]
· All coverage of Lone Star Taco Bar on Eater [~EBOS~]
[Photo: Yelp/Kathy K.]

13 Aug 18:25

The Redemption Of Lambrusco: the Italian Sparkling Wine You Should Be Drinking Right Now | Epicurious.com

by villeashell
Russian Sledges

via otters

The Redemption Of Lambrusco: the Italian Sparkling Wine You Should Be Drinking Right Now | Epicurious.com:
Steve Wildy is the beverage director for the Vetri Family restaurant group in Philadelphia. He is @sommillionaire on twitter. Americans have long appreciated the fruits of Emilia-Romagna: Delicately savory mortadella, nutty Parmigiano-Reggiano, sweetly aged balsamic vinegar. And now, the region’s wine exports are finally catching up to the quality of its food. Like Soave, Pinot Grigio, Valpolicella, and even Chianti, the Lambrusco that’s hit our shores in the 70s and 80s past has been overly sweet and frankly bland—watered down by industrialized mass production. But nary a drop of the real, dry stuff landed on these shores until the mid-nineties. If you have any memory of Lambrusco before that point, you’re probably thinking of Riunite—you may remember the advertising tag line Riunite on ice, that’s nice. Each bottle popped and sloshed at every volcano lamp-lit house party was the sort of candied, Welch’s-scented, soda-pop wine that went down easy to the tune of millions of cases a year. I don’t blame you if you think that sounds terrible, and I especially don’t blame you if you lived through it and can feel a hangover setting in at the mere mention of the word Lambrusco. But no need to reach for the Alka-Seltzer when you and your guests can find a miracle cure in the fizz of the real stuff—the stuff that real Italians have been drinking all along. Forget the old adage about always having a bottle of Champagne in the fridge—here are the Lambruscos you should stock for parties instead: Medici Ermete, Lambrusco Salomino Concerto $23 The first to introduce the classic, dry, cork-stopped style to a fructose-fatigued nation of Lambrusco drinkers was Medici Ermete in 1995, and they still make some of the best. Look to their Concerto as the perfect first sip for the uninitiated: frothy inky purple in the glass and bursting with concord grape and sweet tart aromas, the disassociation from Riunite doesn’t fully click until it hits your lips. This is wine and wine first, with tannin, acidity, fruit, earth, complexity, oh and bubbles too. Venturini Baldini, Lambrusco Emilia $15 The organic Venturini Baldini has just a little more natural sweetness to put it in in the same legendary pizza pairing camp as one Coca Cola. Beyond this classic match, it’s versatile enough to enjoy with almost anything - tons of fruit, balanced acidity, a touch of spice, and a cleansing perlage that also makes it festive and fun to drink. BBQ, Burgers, backyard anything really, and it even looks just fine in a solo cup. Alfredo Bertolani, Lambrusco Rose $16 While Lambrusco is tough to beat with food, there may be no greater mood pairing wine than sparkling rose. The simple act of pouring it for friends announces an intent to celebrate in the classiest of ways. As an example of the smaller category of Rose Lambrusco, this gem from Bertolani is the best of both worlds: pale violet in both color and aroma, gently effervescent and seductively hinting at sweetness. This is…
13 Aug 17:00

A Doctor Who themed restaurant has just opened in New York. - Imgur

by russiansledges
Russian Sledges

#beacon

etc.

13 Aug 15:32

Dark Sky Simulations

by russiansledges
Cosmological simulations are a cornerstone of our understanding of the Universe during its 13.7 billion year progression from small fluctuations that we see in the cosmic microwave background to today, where we are surrounded by galaxies and clusters of galaxies interconnected by a vast cosmic web. The Dark Sky Simulations are an ongoing series of cosmological N-body simulations designed to provide a quantitative and accessible model of the evolution of the large-scale Universe.
12 Aug 16:05

Vintage Allen Edmonds

Russian Sledges

via multitask suicide

image


Step into any vintage shop today and you’ll find the surviving traces of a once-great American footwear-manufacturing sector. To sure, good shoes are still being produced in the US, but the industry isn’t what it used to be. Its last heave was in the 1940s and ‘50s, when companies were bolstered one last time by a boom in sales – first from the US government, who needed to supply troops abroad with quality shoes, and then from the growing domestic workforce in the immediate postwar period.

Since the ‘60s, however, things have gone into steep decline. The introduction of affordable synthetics and increased competition from abroad have forced many companies into producing cheap crap. Just compare anything made nowadays by firms such as Stacy Adams and Bass, to what they produced seventy-five years ago, and your mind will be blown.

Today, there are only a few companies that still produce in the US, unless you count the small number of handsewn moccasin manufacturers and few bespoke makers of cowboy boots. Of the big companies, most have off-shored much of their production, even if they’ve kept some of it here. Heck, even some shoes stamped “Made in the USA” aren’t necessarily made here at all. When Allen Edmonds was sold in 2006, for example, and ownership passed from John Stollenwerk to the Minnesota-based equity firm Goldner Hawn Johnson & Morrison, the company shut down their Lewiston, Maine factory and opened a new one in the Dominican Republic. There, some shoes are half produced and then sent back to the company’s main plant in Port Washington, Wisconsin, where they’re “finished” and stamped with a “Made in the USA” label, while others are fully produced in the Dominican Republic and correctly labeled as such.

Not that I necessarily blame them, to be honest. Competition has been stiff, and Allen Edmonds is one of the few holdouts for American manufacturing (partially, fully, or otherwise). In 2008, Goldner Hawn had to invest another $10 million into their shoe company just to keep doors from closing, while other investors simply wrote off their stakes and backed out. Goldner Hawn has since sold their shares to a private equity firm in Los Angeles, and it’s said they made a profit on their investment, but the future of Allen Edmonds is still unclear.

In any case, here are some scans of vintage Allen Edmonds catalogs, which span from 1956 to 1988. Some might call these the Golden Years of American footwear. Others might say they were the Golden Hour.


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12 Aug 14:46

Enjoy this Flickr set of 19th-century and Medieval/Renaissance...







Enjoy this Flickr set of 19th-century and Medieval/Renaissance "Danse Macabre" illustrations.

The message conveyed by these collections is also largely the same - “memento mori” - remember your mortality. They served to remind people that they could die at any time, and that they should turn to God/the Church *now*, because they might not be around tomorrow.

This imagery may have its roots in horror and penitence, but it’s difficult not to enjoy the humour in these scenes.

13 Aug 11:50

Blade Runner Ambient Deckard's apartment sound

Blade Runner Ambient Deckard's apartment sound for 12 hours. Via MeFi.