Shared posts

11 Sep 17:00

As A Father Of Daughters, I Think We Should Treat All Women Like My Daughters

by Mallory Ortberg

Listen, as a father of daughters, I'm really against this kind of behavior, this kind of treatment of women. The kind where they get hurt or they can't vote or we don't give any money to them. You know the kind I'm talking about. The kind I don't want my daughters to experience, and then I just sort of extrapolate out from there.

It didn't always used to be this way. I used to only have sons. Things sure were different then. How merrily I used to drive down country lanes in my old Ford, periodically dodging off-road to mow down female pedestrians (you must remember I had no daughters then). Was what I did wrong? How was I to know? I had no daughters to think of.

Before I had daughters -- Stimothy and Atalanta are truly the apples of my eye -- I would follow women into voting booths and knock their hands away from the lever whenever they tried to engage in the democratic process. Who knew having daughters would change all that? Not I.

Read more As A Father Of Daughters, I Think We Should Treat All Women Like My Daughters at The Toast.

09 Sep 20:00

I'm quitting football.

by Jason Kottke

Life-long NFL football fan Steve Almond recently wrote a book called Against Football in which he details why he is no longer watching the game he loves. Ian Crouch talked with Almond for the New Yorker.

Any other year, Steve Almond would have seen the play. But, after forty years of fandom, he's quit the N.F.L. In his new book, "Against Football," Almond is plain about what he considers the various moral hazards of the game: "I happen to believe that our allegiance to football legitimizes and even fosters within us a tolerance for violence, greed, racism, and homophobia."

This part resonated most with me:

Even a casual N.F.L. fan can recognize that this is a particularly opportune time for a Raiders fan to stop watching football. The team is terrible. I asked Almond about that. "If the Raiders were really good, I might not have written the book," he said. "How fucked up is that? It's true, I love them. I see those colors, and it's me." For Almond, his struggle to confront his own hypocrisy is exactly the point: proof of football's insidiousness, of its ominous power.

"Football somehow hits that Doritos bliss point," he told me. "It's got the intellectual allure of all these contingencies and all this strategy, but at the same time it is so powerfully connecting us to the intuitive joys of childhood, that elemental stuff: Can you make a miracle? Can you see the stuff that nobody else sees? And most of us can't, but we love to see it. And I don't blame people for wanting to see it. I love it, and I'm going to miss it."

I've been a steadfast fan of NFL football for the past 15 years. Most weekends I'd catch at least two or three games on TV. Professional football lays bare all of the human achievement + battle with self + physical intelligence + teamwork stuff I love thinking about in a particularly compelling way. But for a few years now, the cons have been piling up in my conscience: the response to head injuries, the league's nonprofit status, the homophobia, and turning a blind eye to the reliance on drugs (PEDs and otherwise). And the final straw: the awful terrible inhuman way the league treats violence against women.

It's overwhelming. Enough is enough. I dropped my cable subscription a few months ago and was considering getting it again to watch the NFL, but I won't be doing that. Pro football, I love you, but we can't see each other anymore. And it's definitely you, not me. Call me when you grow up.

Update: Chuck Klosterman recently tackled (*groan*) this issue in the NY Times Magazine: Is It Wrong to Watch Football?

My (admittedly unoriginal) suspicion is that the reason we keep having this discussion over the ethics of football is almost entirely a product of the sport's sheer popularity. The issue of concussions in football is debated exhaustively, despite the fact that boxing -- where the goal is to hit your opponent in the face as hard as possible -- still exists. But people care less about boxing, so they worry less about the ethics of boxing. Football is the most popular game in the United States and generates the most revenue, so we feel obligated to worry about what it means to love it. Well, here's what it means: We love something that's dangerous. And I can live with that.

Ta-Nehisi Coates quit watching back in 2012 after Junior Seau died.

I'm not here to dictate other people's morality. I'm certainly not here to call for banning of the risky activities of consenting adults. And my moral calculus is my own. Surely it is a man's right to endanger his body, and just as it is my right to decline to watch. The actions of everyone in between are not my consideration.

Same here. I don't feel any sense of judgment or righteousness about this. Just the personal loss of a hobby I *really* enjoyed. (via @campbellmiller & @Godzilla07)

Tags: Chuck Klosterman   football   Ian Crouch   NFL   sports   Steve Almond   Ta-Nehisi Coates
14 Sep 21:21

laurenlikesthings: in gallifreyan they don’t say “i love you” they say

laurenlikesthings:

in gallifreyan they don’t say “i love you” they say

11 Sep 00:00

Dalai Lama says he might not be born again

Russian Sledges

via overbey

14th Dalai Lama looking for ways to prevent China exerting more control over Tibetan Buddhism

Dharmsala, India -- China has criticised the Dalai Lama and called on him to “respect” the tradition of reincarnation after the Tibetan Buddhist leader repeated his claim that he may not choose to be reborn.
15 Sep 15:39

Dog mass

by villeashell
Russian Sledges

via otters

Dog mass:

LC control no.sh 85038767 
LC classificationBX2015.5.H
Topical headingDog Mass
    Browse this term in  LC Authorities  or the  LC Online Catalog See alsoDogs—Religious aspects—Catholic Church
    Browse this term in  LC Authorities
Hunting—Religious aspects—Catholic Church
    Browse this term in  LC Authorities

11 Sep 18:00

Read Andrew W.K.’s Stirring Defense of Metal

by Axl Rosenberg
Russian Sledges

via multitask suicide

A woman asked Andrew W.K. how she can get her boyfriend to give up extreme music. His response will make you wanna stand up and applaud.

The post Read Andrew W.K.’s Stirring Defense of Metal appeared first on MetalSucks.

11 Sep 14:40

slaughterlord: The Ayam Cemani Chicken is notable for a couple...

Russian Sledges

via Carnibore



slaughterlord:

The Ayam Cemani Chicken is notable for a couple of things. First of all, partially due to its rarity, especially outside of its native Indonesia, one Ayam Cemani will run you about $2,500. Second, it is clearly the chicken of Our Dark Lord and Savior Satan! The birds exhibit the genetic condition “fibromelanosis,” which renders them totally black—we’re talking feathers, skin, organs, bones, the works. Only their blood is red, albeit a very dark shade.



SourcE

10 Sep 19:00

Henry Kissinger and Hillary Clinton Continue Crushing on Each Other

by David Ludwig, The Wire
Russian Sledges

via multitask suicide

Kissinger said Clinton ran the State Department more effectively than he did.
10 Sep 14:29

Review: No surprise the surprise U2 album shines

by By Associated Press
Russian Sledges

embarrassingly gushy AP review of the U2 album that appeared, unbidden, in my itunes:

'launching into one of those trademark power ballads that feel like a jet plane racing to the horizon'

'there's no question there's more energy here, more inspiration and more to be excited about than anything since "Beautiful Day" — and it's hard to believe it's been 14 years since the band released that latter-career high-water mark.'

'There's a lesson [...] for everyone else in the game. Pay attention.'

...are there actually people who feel this way about U2? are their feelings real?

U2, "Songs of Innocence" (Interscope)

Everything about U2's new album is unexpected. Like its very existence, for one, after the Irish rock band dropped it on iTunes users Tuesday in a surprise move.

10 Sep 01:24

Photo



10 Sep 22:48

Photo



11 Sep 17:21

Tiny Toadstool Tesla on a Teacup (sorry)

Russian Sledges

via rosalind



Tiny Toadstool Tesla on a Teacup (sorry)

10 Sep 00:10

Sad Picnic t-shirts are available...

Russian Sledges

"If you've been following my blog this year, you know I'm a big fan of sad picnics. From Debussy to Bartók, Vaughan Williams to Dvořák, there's nothing like your favorite composers having a miserable time with their friends and family."





Sad Picnic t-shirts are available now!

http://composers-doing-normal-shit.myshopify.com/

Half of the proceeds from the sale of these shirts will be donated to the Mizzou New Music Initiative at the University of Missouri to help the Creating Original Music Project. 

Support your favorite blog and this great program! 

11 Sep 16:49

Arvo Pärt showing off his chicken.  Happy Birthday, Arvo Pärt!



Arvo Pärt showing off his chicken. 

Happy Birthday, Arvo Pärt!

16 Jul 16:12

Photo



10 Sep 11:00

5 ways to hand stitch a hem

by Devon
Russian Sledges

hand-stitched hems forever

handsewhem35text-01

While machine sewing a hem is fast and easy, hand sewing can give you a nearly invisible finish. Below are five different options for hand stitching your hems.

Before we begin, let’s go over a few basic techniques that will be the same for all hand stitching.

Anchoring and tying off

Work with an arm length of thread, and anchor/tie off in the hem. To begin sewing, stitch twice in the same place, but do not pull thread all the way through. Pass the needle through the loop twice.

handsewhem01

Pull to tighten knot down to fabric.

handsewhem02

When you reach the end of your thread or hem, tie a knot in the same way. To hide the tail, pass the needle through the fabric layers without going all the way through. Bring the needle out a couple inches from the knot.

handsewhem06

Cut the thread flush with the fabric. The tail will disappear and be hidden between the layers.

handsewhem07

For any hand stitching, if you find it difficult to maintain even stitches, a quick marking with a disappearing fabric pen can be very helpful.

handsewhem18

In the photos, contrasting thread is being used to make it easier to see, but you will want to use thread that matches your fabric.

And lastly, any right handed directives are bold in the main text, and left handed directives are in italics and parentheses. Hopefully this isn’t too confusing for anyone, but I wanted to make sure everyone could follow along!

Catch stitch

A catch stitch has a bit of elasticity, and the criss crossing of the thread adds strength.

handsewhem34

Worked left to right (right to left).

Anchor thread. With needle pointing to the left (right), take up a very small bit of the garment fabric just above the fold of the hem. Try to make your stitch very small as it will be visible from the right side.

handsewhem03

Pull up thread. Move the needle a bit to the right (left) – about 1/4″ to 1/2”. Take up a small amount of the hem fabric with the needle still facing to the left (right).

handsewhem04

Continue to complete hem.

handsewhem005

Your stitching will look like little “x’s”.

handsewhem08

Blind stitch

A blind stitch is barely visible from either side.

handsewhem14

Press hem allowance into a double fold hem. Fold hem towards right side of garment so that finished edge sticks out by about 1/8”.

handsewhem36

Anchor thread. Working right to left (left to right), pick up a very small bit of fabric in the folded edge of the garment fabric. Make sure you are only sewing through one layer, and make your stitch as small as possible as it will be visible from the right side.

handsewhem11

Move about 1/2″ to the left (right) and pick up a bit of fabric in the hem.

handsewhem12

Continue working this way until the end of them hem.

handsewhem13

Fold hem down and press.

For a variation, use the same technique, but sew a catch stitch to create a blind catch stitch. This will be slightly stronger.

Slip stitch

This stitch works great with a double fold hem, as most of the stitching is hidden within the upper fold of the hem allowance. Like the blind stitch, it’s useful when your hem needs to look good from both sides.

handsewhem20

Work right to left (left to right) with the needle pointing left (right). With wrong side of garment facing, sew a stitch in the upper fold of the hem 1/4”-1/2” long. Be sure to not pierce all the way through to the right side of the garment. Think of your needle as just skimming through the fabric.

When you bring the needle out of the fold, pick up a very tiny bit of fabric on the garment.

handsewhem15

Pull thread through. Enter back into the fold of the hem directly even where the previous stitch ended.

handsewhem16

Stitch forward another 1/4”-1/2” and repeat process to complete hem.

handsewhem19

Fell stitch

The fell stitch is stronger than a slip stitch, but it is visible from the underside of the work if a thinner single layer of fabric is used. For bulkier fabrics, the thread can be hidden by passing through only a portion of the fabric’s thickness. With linings it can be completely hidden by stitching only through the lining and hem.

handsewhem24

Anchor thread. Working from the wrong side and right to left (left to right), pass needle through garment fabric to make a stitch approximately 1/4″-1/2” long. (For a lined garment, stitch only through the lining.) Bring the needle out through the very top edge of the folded hem.

handsewhem21

Enter back into the garment directly behind end of previous stitch to make another stitch.

handsewhem22

Repeat to end.

handsewhem23

On the underside of the work, there will be a line of slightly diagonal stitches.

handsewhem25

Hand rolled hem

This is a nice hem for lightweight and sheer fabrics. It does not work well on thicker fabrics or embellished fabrics.

handsewhem31

Trim any vertical seams in the hem allowance down to 1/8”. On your machine, baste around the hem at the hemline. Then shorten your stitch length to 1.5 and stitch 1/8″ below the hemline. This will keep the edge of the fabric from fraying.

(Note: For a slightly wider, but easier to roll hem, stitch 1/4″ below the basting line.)

handsewhem26

Trim about 6-8” of the excess fabric close to the stitching line. Attach the end of the fabric to something stable to act as a third hand. You can safety pin it to a couch, put a weight onto it, or put it under the presser foot of your machine.

Roll the trimmed edge of the fabric towards the wrong side, stopping at the basting stitches. The other stitching line should be enclosed by the roll of the fabric. (Licking your fingers will really help. It’s ok, no one’s watching.)

handsewhem27

Use slip stitches to sew down the roll. Roll and stitch a little bit at a time. When you get close to your trimmed edge, trim a bit more. Trimming as you go prevents stray threads from fraying as you work with the fabric.

handsewhem28

Continue to finish the hem.

handsewhem29

Remove basting stitches.

handsewhem30

For an additional tutorial on sewing a hand rolled hem, you can also check out this Coletterie post.

free-hem-guide-02

11 Sep 17:33

Pinboard on Twitter: "I have an iPhone 5C and all I got is the Spin Doctors"

by russiansledges
I have an iPhone 5C and all I got is the Spin Doctors
11 Sep 17:05

OK Go Claims Apple Stole Its Music Video Concept To Kick Off iPhone 6 Event

by Mary Beth Quirk

A shot from OK Go's "The Writing's On The Will" video, left and Apple's "Perspectives" video, right.

A shot from OK Go’s “The Writing’s On The Will” video, left and Apple’s “Perspectives” video, right.

In the video “Perspective” used by Apple to kick off its event unveiling the iPhone 6 and Apple Watch earlier this week, the company encourages people to “see things differently.” But the band OK Go — known for its colorful, quirky (I can use that word whenever I want, legally) music videos — says Apple saw things pretty much exactly the same way as it did when the group first pitched a video concept to the company last April.

That collaborative pitch was rejected by the company, OK Go’s manager tells Businessweek, so the band decided to go ahead and make the video anyway for its song “The Writing’s On The Wall.”

As you can see below, the video employs a single, long camera shot that tracks through a room and shows the band members popping in and out of different set=ups that appear to look one way when approached from a certain angle, and have a new meaning when viewed from another. You, know, perspective.

Meanwhile, Apple’s, ahem, “Perspectives” video employs a lot of the same technique, only in that video, words appear in unexpected ways throughout, instead of guys with mirrors on their head and polka dot sweatshirts that match the backgrounds:

They do feel similar, but that can happen, right? One style influences another? After all, OK Go’s video has been viewed over 10 million times since it was posted in June, so maybe some of its visual trickery simply rubbed off on Apple.

Except not really, the band’s manager says: After Apple declined the band’s pitch, the company hired the same production company behind OK Go’s video and used the same director.

While Apple hasn’t returned Businessweek’s request for comment, “The videos speak for themselves, and you can draw your own conclusions,” the band’s manager says.

Whaddya think?

Take Our Poll

OK Go: Apple Ripped Off Our Video [Businessweek]

09 Sep 15:00

Dogs with Anime Eyes of Versailles

Russian Sledges

via firehosalind

Dogs with Anime Eyes of Versailles

Check out these adorable doggies that freckledtrash perfectly matched with eyes from the anime, Rose of Versailles!

Submitted by:

10 Sep 18:57

Old Photos From the Library of Congress Turned Into Wonderfully Bizarre Animated GIFs

by EDW Lynch
Russian Sledges

via rosalind

Flux Machine by Kevin Weir

In his ongoing Flux Machine project, artist Kevin Weir turns archival photographs from the Library of Congress into wonderfully bizarre animated GIFs.

Flux Machine by Kevin Weir

Flux Machine by Kevin Weir

Flux Machine by Kevin Weir

Flux Machine by Kevin Weir

GIFs by Kevin Weir

via Colossal

09 Sep 20:20

Satanic FOIA Reveals Deep Confusion About 1st Amendment

by Joseph Laycock
Russian Sledges

joe laycock autoshare

'Several callers demanded to know whether the governor was for or against erecting a monument to Satan. One caller from Florida, who did not understand that the Ten Commandments monument was on government grounds, reported that his pastor had told him that all religious displays in Oklahoma must now feature displays of Satanism as well. Others believed the monument would have seven heads, or that it would be appear on “The White House.”

'One caller tearfully confessed that in the 1960s she had used peyote and crystal meth, and read Nietzsche. The voicemail service cut her off before she could finish her point.'

The Satanic Temple, best known for its offer to build a monument to Satan...
09 Sep 21:30

Cliff House, A Five-Story House That Hangs Off the Edge of a Cliff

by EDW Lynch
Russian Sledges

via GN

makes me want to become a bond supervillain with an awesome accent

Cliff House by Modscape

Cliff House is a design concept for a five-story home that hangs off the face of a cliff. Entry to the modular structure is through the top floor garage, and the house is anchored to the cliff by steel pins. The Cliff House concept was designed by Modscape, an Australian company that specializes in prefabricated structures.

Cliff House by Modscape

Cliff House by Modscape

Cliff House by Modscape

images via Modscape

via Inhabitat

08 Sep 18:54

A Comet Foreshadows Wars, De Naturæ Diuinis Characterismis, 1575

Russian Sledges

via firehose



A Comet Foreshadows Wars, De Naturæ Diuinis Characterismis, 1575

08 Sep 22:27

Photo

Russian Sledges

via rosalind



08 Sep 13:44

Fantasy Map: Mock-Up Boston MBTA Map Spotted in LA for...

Russian Sledges

via firehose

creepy

otters: "I remember when Russian Sledges used to live off of Cabrerra"



Fantasy Map: Mock-Up Boston MBTA Map Spotted in LA for Filming

Posted by Seiji Tanaka on his Twitter account, here’s a fictional MBTA map at an LA Metro station for film/TV shooting. The map is at the fictional “Rockwater” station on the equally fictional Yellow Line (replacing the real world Orange Line).

We’ve covered fictional transit maps from TV shows and movies before (this weird DC Metro map from the TV show “Leverage” springs to mind), but I don’t think I’ve ever seen one where the prop designers have just downloaded and edited the official map, which is obviously what has happened here. What’s more, it’s been edited really badly.

The blue water and white background of the official map has been removed and the whole map has been placed on a grey/beige background instead… but all the white boxes behind bus route numbers and white keylines around the route lines that were used to separate them from other elements are still in place. Which means there’s a lot of weird, random white elements on the map for no apparent reason. There are also ferry routes, but no water for them to sail across.

Most of the commuter rail routes have been removed, but not all of the stations: Yawkey is just floating in the middle of the map by itself, for example, and interchange stations still retain their extra “blob” for commuter rail platforms.

The real-life Blue line is now Purple, the Green Line is now Blue (with all sorts of branch name errors) and the Orange Line is now Yellow. This line has also had all of its station names changed, mostly to very un-Bostonian names, like “San Jacomo” and “Cabrerra”. Is this the MBTA or Grand Theft Auto? To me, this suggests that this part of the map might feature a little more prominently in whatever scenes it is featured in.

Yes, I know that these maps tend to appear fleetingly in the background of whatever show they’re used in, so it’s a little unfair to subject them to the same scrutiny as a real transit map, but this one struck me as particularly odd, seeing as it’s so directly and obviously based off the official map (it even has the crossed-out station icon for Government Center).

P.S. Anyone know what TV show/movie this prop is from?

04 Sep 14:19

V&A’s First Games Designer in Residence Takes On 19th-Century Textiles

by Allison Meier
Russian Sledges

WILLIAM MORRIS ALERT

by William Morris, indigo-discharged & block-printed cotton (1883) (via Victoria & Albert Museum)

Detail of “Strawberry Thief” by William Morris, indigo-discharged & block-printed cotton (1883) (via Victoria & Albert Museum)

Curiosity was piqued across the games and museum communities last May when the Victoria & Albert Museum announced their first games designer in residence. Now games designer Sophia George has unveiled her first project in the residency, which transforms a vivid Victorian textile into an iPad experience.

strawberry-thief-320Called “Strawberry Thief” after the 1883 William Morris work it explores, George unveiled the game last month at the Dare ProtoPlay festival in Dundee, Scotland. George decided, as part of the V&A’s task to reinterpret British art from the 1500-1900 galleries, to concentrate on the Arts and Crafts Movement, specifically Morris. In collaboration with the V&A, V&A Dundee, and Albertay University, her “Strawberry Thief” deconstructs the botanical pattern into a tablet game where you fly as one of the fruit-stealing birds to draw and color the screen with picked up flowers. BBC Scotland’s science correspondent Kenneth Macdonald got a preview of the game, earlier this month, showing the beauty of the Morris art replicated digitally, with gently soaring music against the simple gameplay.

Later this year, it’s planned that the game will be available for free. Meanwhile, you can check out the build progress on George’s website. The density of the details in the textile and wallpaper designs by William Morris can be hard to mentally break down, but the “Strawberry Thief” looks promising as encouraging a real appreciation for how the fantasy in floral unfolds. Perhaps if it’s a success more museums will invite game designers into their collections, as while it can be a novelty to turn art into a game, it’s even more interesting when the game environment is giving a better understanding of the original work.

Read more about “Strawberry Thief” and see the game’s development at Sophia George’s site.

07 Sep 10:47

Photo

Russian Sledges

via firehose



07 Sep 04:42

Photo

Russian Sledges

via firehose

















06 Sep 21:17

Invisible afterthought smocking: a useful (and mysterious!) trick

by TECHknitter
Looking through the TECHknitting list of posts, I've found some which were finished but never posted. Here's one on smocking.

Pretty, and useful, too
Smocking on knitting is very pretty. It also has the wonderful property of narrowing fabric without having to use decreases or any shaping at all.  So, not only can you make very pretty sweaters with smocking, but you can use smocking to narrow a too-wide fabric without having to alter the underlying knitting pattern.  Two examples.*

First, a sweater too wide across the top of the body (actually, this is a very common problem for women, because the bust typically requires a larger width of fabric than the overbust area).  Adding bust-shaping is one solution, but adding smocking above the bust requires less pattern-alteration. 


narrowing a sweater in the overbust area via smocking

A second example: a sweater too wide in the waist. (As with the first example, this common problem in women's sweaters caused by the necessity to fit the bust, which can be significantly wider than the waist.) Adding waist shaping would have solved this problem in the first place, but smocking is a simple way to solve the problem, because it can be added to a pattern which has no waist shaping, without much pattern-alteration.

narrowing a sweater in the waist area via smocking

Invisible afterthought smocking
This post is about a kind of smocking which is done using a threaded blunt-tipped sewing needle, after all the knitting is done--it's called afterthought smocking, and it is a combination of knitting and sewing.

As the below illustration shows,  the yarn inserted by the sewing needle is pretty-near invisible: I used purple for the sewing yarn, and even though this is purple-on-white, the purple yarn shows only at very sides the pinch-pleat. If the pleating yarn had been the same color as the underlying fabric, it would be completely invisible.

Another invisible aspect is that the pleats are formed with no outward clue as to how they were made--no yarn travels over the top of the pleats, leaving their formation quite mysterious.

For both these reasons, I call this trick "invisible afterthought smocking."

The purple yarn is for illustration purposes only, normally the pleating yarn would be the same color as the underlying fabric


Set-up
When smocking is worked on woven fabric, the fabric must first be painstakingly pleated.  The smocking then hold the pleats in place.  As knitters, we have the privilege of creating our own fabric, and therefore can make a "pre-pleated" fabric by working ribs: as you see in the above illustration, the ribs form the basis of the pleats.  Stated otherwise, smocking in knitting is worked on knitted ribs. The sewing acts to pinch the ribs together in an alternating high-low pattern, forming the "pinch-pleats" characteristic of smocking.

If you are planning a garment for smocking, working every fourth column in knit on a purl (reverse stockinette) background is a good standard of spacing. This type of ribbing, called 1/3, is shown above.

If you have a too-wide item you'd like to tighten, it is possible to re-work (convert into ribbing) an already-finished reverse stockinette fabric into 1/3 ribs--here is a link to a post about re-working stockinette scarves into ribbing, and the idea is identical with sweaters (the fabric shown above was converted from a reverse stockinette fabric---> ribbing in this manner).

If you are starting with a stockinette fabric made smooth side out, it's a bit more complicated.  Instead of converting a single column of reverse stockinette---> knit rib every fourth column, the three in-between columns have to be converted from stockinette
---> reverse stockinette, making three times as much work.   However, even at three times the work, converting is still a whole lot less work than knitting a whole new garment.  Further, if the item is a sweater, the area of actual smocking need not be very wide--the effects of smocking reach down considerably below (and, for waist-shaping, also reach above) where the actual smocking starts.


How-to
Once you have your ribbed fabric, the work is quite simple. Smocked pleats are usually made in sets of two at a time, a high pleat followed by a low pleat as shown on the illustrations. As you can see, the stockinette ribs are colored pink/red.  There are three columns of purl between the ribs. Each pair of red stitches represents the pinched end-points of a smocked pleat, and these pleat-pinches are joined by a loop of yarn worked through the fabric, which draws them together.  In other words, the pinch-pleats are formed over the four red stitches and the columns are pinched alternately, giving the unique smocked look. 


The sewing needle is used to put the smocking yarn into the fabric (each pleat-pinch is shown a different color).  Once the loop is threaded into the fabric, it is tightened to draw the four red stitches together.  Note that you actually tighten each loop as you make it: the schematic shows the loops untightened just so you can see what's going on.

This is an color-coded overview, each pleat shown in a different color. Below are closeups of the line taken by the pleating-yarn as it travels from pinch-pleat 2 to pinch-pleat 3 along the on the fabric-back, as well as a closeup of the looped path which the pleating-yarn takes as it forms a pinch-pleat

Specifically, these pleats are 4 stitches apart, the pinch-pleat takes two stitches, so each repeat is 6 stitches long (ie: high).  However, you can make your own pleats longer or shorter, the only important thing is consistency. This diagram shows one set of high-low pleats.  To add a second set, use the same spacing between sets of pleats as within a set of pleats.

The above diagram shows the path of the smocking-yarn as seen from the front.  However, the yarn travels from pleat-pinch to pleat-pinch (in our example, from pleat-pinch 2 to pleat-pinch 3) through the fabric back. When the fabric is flipped to the back, the stitch columns are reversed.  Specifically, the rib on which the smocking is performed shows as a purl column while the three intervening reverse stockinette columns now show as knit columns.

The below illustrations shows the path of the needle as it travels from pinch-pleat 2 (green) to pinch pleat 3 (blue), along the back face of the fabric. The stitches are colorized in accordance with the arrows on the above chart.  As shown, the needles travels in the half-stitch bordering the purl column.

beginning the travel from pinch-pleat 2 to 3, through the fabric back


Showing the position of the sewing needle just before drawing the pleating yarn through to travel from pinch-pleat 2 to 3. Secured into this half-column, the traveling yarn will not show from the front.


The final illustration, below, is a closeup of the path of the needle as it creates the pinch-pleat.  As you see, the pleating yarn goes in and out THROUGH THE SIDES of the pleat-stitches (highlighted in red), NOT over the top.

It is this path--not over the top--which distinguishes this form of smocking from any other. Further, it is this through-the-sides maneuver which keeps the pleating yarn invisible.

In fact, when your pleating yarn is the same color as the background yarn, the pleating yarn does not show at the pleats on the front nor as it travels on the back, making this a truly "invisible" form of afterthought smocking.  So invisible, in fact, that it is quite mysterious--suitable for mystifying your eagle-eyed knitting friends.

to create each pinch-pleat, the yarn travels in  loop through the sides of the four highlighted rib stitches, NOT over the stitch-tops


* * *
One last thing:  Not only can you smock on a 1/3 ribbing as shown in this post, but it is also possible to smock on any 1/X ribbing, such as 1/2 (k1, p2) , 1/1 (k1, p1), etc. The important thing is a single row of knit rib on a background of reverse stockinette.
 * * *
Good knitting!
--TK
* * *

* A third example of where afterthought smocking is useful: 1/1 ribbing is fairly common, and commonly stretches out.  Stretched-out 1/1 ribbing on a sweater- or mitten-cuff or on a hat brim can be tightened the back into usefulness via this trick.  The actual pleating is done the same way, with one difference: when pleating 1/1 ribbing, best to use a thinner yarn--a color-matched sock yarn, perhaps--or the amount of pleating yarn might make the fabric stiff.


This is a TECHknitting blog post on invisible afterthought smocking, which is about smocking handknits, also know as smocking knitting or smocking knits.  This trick is an invisible replacement for the smocking stitch on knits. Thanks for being a TECHknitter reader!
06 Sep 22:44

This Map Shows The States Where Adults Binge Drink The Most

by Pamela Engel
Russian Sledges

that's because we all decided to be at Drink for 8 hours

Binge drinking is typically thought of as a college activity, but in some states, it's popular with older adults as well.

A map created by Ramiro Gomez and posted on Reddit shows the states where binge drinking among people age 26 and above is most common (the data comes from the Substance Abuse and Mental Health Services Administration and Bloomberg):

Drunks in the US: % of adults age 26+ who binge drank the previous month

As the map shows, more than 30% of adults in North Dakota and South Dakota admitted to binge drinking during the previous month. Those in surrounding states had high rates of binge drinking, as well.

Utah — which has a high population of Mormons compared to the rest of the U.S. — ranked low, as did North Caroline and Tennessee.

North Dakota is also one of the biggest consumers of beer in the U.S., and Utah usually ranks low when it comes to alcohol consumption.

Binge drinking is commonly defined as drinking five or more drinks on the same occasion.

SEE ALSO: Here Are The Drunkest Countries In The World [MAP]

Join the conversation about this story »